overdrive

Paul, Willie wants an extra bracket. I've only made one, so far. I thought I'd better try to find out if it would fit your carburetor before I went further, since it won't work on mine. The linkage we have isn't the same as those I've seen with the solenoid. It's looking to me like my car never had one. I restored the wiring harness about 3 years ago, and I don't remember it having a wire for the solenoid. I should have thought about checking the wiring diagram before now. Dan

No photos or more information have come my way. Dan

I checked out some spare Quadrajets that I have. A '72 Chevy carb that I have has the tab on the linkage that the solenoid contacts. It would line up with the solenoid and work exactly like Willie's. My '70 carb on my SS doesn't have the same tab and when I held the bracket up, over the bolt and the screw it would mount with, I found the solenoid won't contact anything. Paul, please check your carb for a contact point for the solenoid. If it's like my carb, the bracket that Willie has won't do you any good. Dan

Thank you, Willie and Paul. Willie, the carb you have will accept the bracket that is shown by the others here for a '71. The '70 carbs don't have the same features that allow the '71 bracket to fit them. The clamp bracket is what I was envisioning would have been necessary for the solenoid that has no threads. My '70 carb doesn't have the necessary mounting holes for that type of bracket. Stan Kulikowski has offered to get some photos of his '70 for us. Dan

This is from a '71 w/402 and a 4 speed. I have some people on Facebook groups checking for the same bracket that Willie sent me. No luck, yet. I've made some headway on a new solenoid bracket. I just need to finish the solenoid hole. I have a friend with a '70 SS454 that has the original parts on it. I believe it is the same style solenoid that I show here. Big nut attaches it. I'll contact him and see if he can get a good photo of his. Dan

Great job! Dan

My positive cable code is NH. Negative is LC. Dan

Yes, call American Autowire for the cables. Don't mess with The Parts Place. They don't know the correct part numbers, and their customer service sucks. You'll need the codes for the cables from your build sheet, or I can get them for you. You can get almost any black side post battery that the topper will fit. I recommend you buy a topper and take it with you to get the battery. Dan

Yes, call American Autowire. Dan

Thank you. They are $115 shipped in the US. Dan

Paul, the detent plates are $90, plus $5 shipping to anywhere in the US. Dan

Thanks Paul. If you want, make yours available. I don't know how soon I'll be making another set, but I could make some in a month or two, probably. I'm working on designing slap shifting detent plates for 4 more types of shifters every evening. Dan

Alan, I also make the shock protectors, if you can't find them. Dan

Bump

Excellent job! Congratulations on the awards! Dan

Excellent work! It'll be a great car. Dan

The valves have oil in them. That's how the delay works. New valves are still available from the oem, Dayton Air Suspension and Control Products. https://www.heightcontrolvalve.com/ Dan

Steve, the seller told me he had sold you the other SS. I ended up putting some of my spare parts and some that I make with this car, after cleaning it up and putting good bumpers on it, and I listed it for sale in some Facebook groups one night. I sold it in less than 3 hours to a Monte guy in California. He paid full price by PayPal that night, and he had a shipper pick it up. I didn't make much profit on the car, but I got want I thought it was worth, and I sold some of my parts. He was very happy to get it. Dan

Great work! Those and corrosion on the check valve seats are common issues. Dan

They also fit Chevelles, El Caminos, Camaros, and Impalas. Dan

I'll have some detent plates with me at the Eastern Meet at Carlisle. Dan dpjfabts3@gmail.com

Put the car on a drive-on type lift, or raise all 4 corners some other way. I used car dollies under each tire. That doesn't get the car very high, but it worked ok for me. You could put 4x4s on top of the dollies, if you need more height. It would make it easier to work on, but you need all 4 corners raised the same amount. Air the tank up. With the factory linkage off and out of the way, adjust the actuating arm on the control valve to the mid point position. The nut on the side of the actuating arm is in a slotted hole. That is where the adjustment is made. If your control valve is good, you can push the actuating arm up and that will put pressure in the shock absorbers. The Monroe shocks I have require a minimum of 25 lbs. I just aired mine up until the rear bumper raised about an inch or so, and then released the actuating arm. You can play around with different amounts of pressure in the shocks and see what you like, I don't like the bumper up high. The shocks work best for my taste with minimal pressure. Once you're satisfied with the air pressure in your shocks, just measure how long the linkage needs to be. You can use your original and see how short it is, or try to measure center to center on the holes for the linkage. You may want to drive the car after you get the shocks aired up to check for ride quality. It doesn't take alot of air pressure to make for a rough ride. Dan

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Paul, I don't think I have any ball swivels at the moment, but I can get some ordered. The linkages are made to the length you specify for $35, shipping included. Dan

The needed length of the ball swivel linkage is determined by the coil springs. With the replacement springs available today, the problem you have is common. I had the same issue, and I know of 2 others that did. I chose to buy new ball swivels and make a longer linkage, instead of cutting up my original. I've also made them for others. Dan

Yes sir. I sent a PM. I have an ad for True Slap detent plates in the For Sale forum. Thank you for your purchase! dpjfabts3@gmail.com 573-248-1389 Dan