alex's72fgmc

30 spline is the norm for 12 bolt montes unless the diff has been changed out to something else etc.

well if epoxy is what your wanting to do you will need to stop drill the cracks "1/8th inch drill bit drilled into the ends of the cracks to prevent spreading wipe area clean with alcohol on bothe sides then epoxy the area using tape or some sort of backing to temperarily hold the epoxy there while it cures. then sand remaining amount away for clearance/appearance

well at least at the indi meet you had police supervision lol with the two officers that patroled the parking lot lol

yes it did have the tcs

by the way if you lifted your body off the frame or your body bushings have worn out it might have slide to one side or was not set back right. that would get you clearance without alot of expense alex

BOP rear ends were substituted from time to time on the line. just fyi

the gear ratio is stamped on the ring gear you just need to do a little math. 41 divided into what the other number is. the options for the different rear axle housing just varied with what they had on the line at the time Corporate 10 bolt or the Buick, Olds, Pontiac aka bop rear end. as long as it is the same length flange to flange on the backing plate and the control arm mounts are in the same spot it will work. if you have any questions pm me and i will get back to you

www.inlinetube.com there stuff is spot on stainless steel and oem steel lines

yep if the trans fluid is low you could get those symtoms also if your 1st/reverse band "since it is on the same fluid circuit" is about to go time for a rebuild if you have fluid in it.

just to let you know dennys drive shaft shop is top notch. they guarantee there work. if you can break it they will fix it free. thats who we went with when building the drive line for the 67 gto. alex

trans line go with stainless steel and from www.inlinetube.com i would just buy a 4oo yoke and shaft all in one verse modify that one.

inline tube www.inlinetube.com

ok you will most likely need a fuel pressure regulator to keep the fuel pressure at the carb around 6-7 psi so you dont bypass your needle and seat forcing the carb to take more fuel and overflow onto the intake/ start a fire. the guage just tells you pressure not regulating it to a specific pressure.

the speed controler i would recomend along with a fuel pressure regulator. are you using a carb or a fuel injection setup? also are you using a timing retard controller? what size nitrous system are you going to use? these will play a big issue into what you may or may not need. Alex

heres a thought did you remove the kickdown cable ? if so you may want to see about replacing the o-rings on the dipstick tube and the kickdown cable at the trans. those will leak and look like they are coming from the from the front pump as well. just run you finger around the trans lines and then the kick down and dip stick tubes. the front pump seal is a possiblity as well just remove the inspection cover and see if there is trans fluid coming down the pump case. how long was it runing with the bolts loose? did you put some petroleum jelly/ vasaline on the seal and converter snout? Alex

sounds like valve body or the filter pickup tube fell down/ fluid low. is your filter a push in style or held in with a bolt?> Alex

just go to a hardware store and get a small diameter pipe and cut to length. then paint black and done. alex

https://www.nicb.org/cps/rde/xchg/nicb/hs.xsl/vincheck.html i would recommend looking into posting your vehicle on a stolen vehicle database. also new jersey no longer has that vehicle on file for being stolen from what i could bring up. just fyi

just dont have someone under there while your pushing lol ..... hey honey can you do me a favor lol

i had the same issue with billies car i had to use a universal kickdown bracket as i went to a squarebore carb "edelbrock 1407" and the kickdown pin was further forward. causing an issue with install of the kickdown cable i had to hack a spare aftermarket kickdown bracket to make the kickdown cable to work. Alex

i hope there replacing it then?

most likely the tcc "converter lockup" solinoid. or valve body issue. my 4l60e dumped all but first and reverse

make sure you replaced the o ring "and put petrolum jelly on it" that goes around the front pump and the gasket other wise it is leak city and heckeng is right on the install technic. also you may need to buy two bolts that are just a bit longer to help it seat past the o-ring "do not tighten all the way" then start to install your pump bolts.

t0904crn is t= tonawanda engine plant 09 = sept 04 = 4th day of the month crn is 454 138570L113476 1 = chevy 38 = monte carlo 57 = 2 dr hard top 0 = 1970 L = Los Angelos van nuys plant 113476 = production number i.e. the 13476 car to be made at that plant. alex

motor mounts, coil springs in front and rear, drill a few holes in frame to slide back the trans cross member, cut drive shaft, relocate proportioning valve to the top of the frame versus the inside for clearance for headers and to eliminate brake fade. possibly diff size brake booster as well but not sure on that one. and some other stuff but not sure what your trans comes with in the box... Alex