Winston Wolf

Nobody does it on a flat tappet cam because it is a waste of time. Just get the correct flat tappet profile for the lifter you want. The cams are cheap. There are easier ways to make horsepower with proven parts.

Have your machine shop press in the cam bearings. I put the camshaft in after the piston/crank, but before the heads. You need to find TDC with the heads off. Just be gentle with it as you work it into the block so you don't nick up the bearings.

That will never pull to 6500. If you are getting bigger aluminum heads, shrink the chamber, bump the compression to 10-10.5:1 and use something just under 240@.050 with your stall.

There is a reason they are cheap. Read the 3 discussions below and then decide what you think. I don't tell people how to spend their money. When it comes to cylinder heads and guns, you get what you pay for. Patriot Heads 1 Patriot Heads 2 Patriot Heads 3

I sort of agree with this. That's why people wire in an adjustable vacuum switch and a vacuum delay valve. Then as the engine begins to see a load above normal cruising throttle input, it will release the TCC. If anyone cares, I can go into more detail on exactly how to wire things and how the cars react with different setups. I have tried multiple combinations.

I don't want you to have to think too hard Andy.... There is usually a 4th gear psi switch installed in the valve body. There are 2 common switches used, and each is wired differently. The 2 wire style would be wired hot to the switch, then to the sol, with sol grounded. 1 wire style would be wired on the ground side of sol. The only think i dont like about it is they have a big drop when it shifts and locks at the same time.

I'm sure that bracket will work. You also need a proper bracket to hold the cable. Like this. You can run you trans unlocked, but if it's not built with that intent, it will want to run hotter than it should. Watch the temp closely if you do. (You might consider running a temp gauge for these things) I agree that the lockup can be frustrating, but you can just run a simple setup for now. Let me know if you need help with how to hook it up.

Maybe you can just bend the universal one enough or change where it bolts to the engine to make it work?

Well, I am saying it does. I have the original dipstick from my TH350 in my 200-4r. And I have a universal one sitting in a box that didn't work.

I would say if it doesn't loose any power, it flows like it is suppose to for the engine's needs. Keep in mind I also have an H type crossover. The guy that did my exhaust work promised it would work, and it appears he did not lie. I wrote him a letter on my track findings that I see was on his wall the last time I had to go there.....

I have 1-5/8" primary headers with 3" collectors, 3" cutouts, and 3" full exhaust/Dynomax 3" mufflers. I saw no change in MPH/ET in back to back runs open vs closed. This is in 500 HP upper 11 sec small block. There was a difference with 2-1/2" though.

I would worry less about the shape of the rod and more about rod length and rod to cam clearance in a 500 hp 400 SBC.

Ideal times calculator More racing calculators than you will ever need.

Long. It is not the neck that constitutes long or short. It is the dimension from the pulley flange to the engine block flange. Long is 7" and short is 5-5/8".

What kind of cam exactly do you run?

and just because it idles find, runs fine, and is ping free doesn't mean you have the timing set correctly or optimally. The higher the timing, the better it will idle. Get a timing light on it.

11:1 is nothing. I agree with the salvage guy. Back the timing off (or make sure it's set correctly) and make sure the idle is at the correct speed. Simple as that.

Curious to see what it will do when you stretch the legs for another 1/8 mile. We have snow here, so the only thing I can race now is the snowblower.

These guys were a pioneer in early TPI engine building. TPIS I used some info from them on a 86 IROC back in the day. That 305 would kill 350's. They also had a book back in the mid 90's that had some good info...not sure if you can still get it?

and Davey, if you think TC is bad, spend a few days on speedtalk.com The goal there is to make grown men cry, half the time.

Ha, I checked and you can get 700 hp for less than 19k. I did order a new engine though.....so your both gonna be fighting for second place.... NEW ENGINE

Oh Dave, don't be so sensitive. I wish I had your trailer setup.

Ha, I thought that thing had a trailer the size of a house...?

I would tell the "guys around you" they don't know what they are talking about. 50 deg at low load will not wreck your engine. In fact that sounds just about right to me. You have relatively low compression and aluminum heads. If you were't getting any detonation, you should have been perfectly fine. You set your timing exactly how you should have. If you would have had any pinging at low load, then you should dial back the vacuum advance only. (adjustable canister, etc) Total timing at low vaccum (WOT) should be set to provide maximum power without detonation. Watch this video, it will show you the combustion process in an engine and you will see that the valves aren't even close to being open when it occurs. I don't see how detonation could even hurt a spring??? Doesn't make sense to me. Sometimes stuff just breaks. Replace the spring (or all the springs)and move on with life.