MGD72Monte

Had the same problem, similar to what others have said combination of hitting the threaded end of the bolt with a hammer until it jambs and won't turn freely then using the impact to spin it (keep applying pressure from the threaded side). When it is spinning freely in that location, hit it again until it jambs again then back to the impact to spin it. You should be able to make slow process of working it out of the sleeve. Use penetrating lube throughout the process, PB blaster or WD-40. Good luck

I believe you, I remember a vet once told me to keep antifreeze away from dogs as they like its sweet taste. Obviously not good for them . In my case I don't have one and if I did he would have to break into the garage and open the lid to the overflow tank. I'll be keeping an eye out for evidence of a leak on the carpet. I was thinking of just pulling back the front part next to the firewall on the pax side but the way the car is parked I can't really get in on that side so it will have to wait until I pull her out in the spring. Thanks again.

Thanks again guys, some interesting theories there, I will be checking those out but as per Scott, not worrying too much about it until I start her up in the Spring. Rod, the heater core is a possibility I had though of, the dog I had not .

That was my first thought because I noticed it when it was really cold outside but this week has been much warmer, so I was expecting to come back up and it did not. Originally Posted By: LS5 Hey MG...... a couple of quick questions...... when the monte is running do you have white smoke coming out of the tail pipe..??? when you remove your rad cap do you see oil floating around in the rad fluid.??? Pull the dipstick and see if you have a Milkshake substance on your dipstick instead of straight oil.??? last but not least on the bottom of the oil filler cap is there the same milkshake build up there ???? All bad news if you do have any of that.. Darren. I would have expected to see one or some of these symptoms the last time it was run as well as the sickly sweet smell that typically accompanies coolant leaks but nothing although the car has not been started since it was stored in Nov. I will definetly be looking for those in the Spring and am considering pulling oil the plug briefly to see if I get coolant instead of oil. Originally Posted By: Sam (Bones) don't forget....water evaporates too, even when mixed with anti-freeze, and the overflow tank isn't airtight That would be a good outcome although I have never noticed this in past year when it has been stored. Originally Posted By: First Knight A radiator pressure tester should help determine what's going on. Hope it's not a cracked block or blown head gasket! Good luck with this. I thought about this but the coolant disappeared over time with the engine not running and so with no pressure and it seemed to be fine when I was using the car regularly so I don't see how this will work for me. Thanks a lot for the answers guys, I'll keep scratching my head on this one.

I'm used to coolant leaks when the engine is hot and the coolant expands creating pressure. Any ideas on troubleshooting what seems to be a static coolant leak occurring during storage over several months (basically the overflow tank was full, now it is empty?) No evidence of external leaking. Thanks

Good progress Will, I also found some cash and a few other notable artefacts when I started gutting the interior, it's a bit like being an archeologist!

Yes, 215/75R15 is the right size for G78-15s but it is a dang skinny tire. The chart I have lists the diameter for both of these at 27.7" and as mentioned yours is 26.1", quite a difference. I use to have 275/60R15 (28.0") at the back and they seemed to be pretty accurate, my 225/70R15 (27.4") are a little off. If I had to get replacements I would get 235/70R15 (28.0").

Interesting, mine is a 72, early part of the production run (built in Sep 71) and there is no fasten seat belt light in the dash (dash is original), none of the wiring to the seats/seat belts, woodgrain is held on by butterfly clips and the mirror with map light has silver backing. Can't speak to the window knobs as I have power windows. Car was built in Oshawa. I would be interested in someone confirming they have a 71 with a fasten seat belt light. If that is confirmed the transition must be a plant specific issue, may even be related to extra stock left over from the 1971 strike. For example, my 72 and others I have seen have the 71 version of the trunk lock bezel.

4.56 !!!! I think others have nailed it, that should be your first stop. Then depending on the results, I would start looking at the engine.

Dang, this this be a tru gret bargin, wat a umanitarian, the hole wurld is in talk about it, revolutions are hapning over this mazing deal. Scietists cant xplain it. MArtians r callin to trade der saucer forit. The reserve will be soon needing to be raise to kep the riots down...

I had the exact same problem a few decades ago (man I'm getting old). One day I turned the ignition on and the needle went pass full all the way to 3 o'clock and stayed there. I'm pretty sure the fix was to re-establish the ground which attaches to the fuel tank brace. Good luck

Check your idle speed for spec and what voltage you are getting at idle. Sounds like the alternator is not turning fast enough to get you up into the 14.5V range when at idle.

Have you tried any of the muffler or performance shops that build custom exhaust systems in your area. Mine was custom made out of aluminized pipe in 2000 and has no rust yet. I was able to tell them exactly what I wanted in terms of the set up including the tips. Good luck with your research and welcome.

Good job Murphy, glad to see it worked out, new set up looks good!

As mentioned above, use a drill to walk the rubber centre out then chisel the casing into collapse to remove. I can't see a puller working.

I'm with Sam on this one, it is already expensive enough to drive a 350, and the future is unlikely to be getting cheaper. If it is not for racing or original to the car, I'd be sticking with a 350. You can get a lot of HP out of a 350 and with the right exhaust, the sound of a 350 can be perfect. Good luck whatever your decision, your car will be awesome I'm sure.

Seem like no one is touching on the do it yourself option whenever possible I find brings about more satisfaction and a better understanding even if it is not the cheapest route. To me it is a big part of the hobby. Not everybody's cup of tea I know, but something to think about before making a final decision.

So there are some dimmables then! I guess I'll have to do more research. Thanks all

Thanks for the clarification Dennis, the technical explanation makes perfect sense. I've been debating whether to go this route eventually, I find the OEM dash lights to be way too dim and overall much dimmer than the aftermarket gauges I have under the dash. I guess I'm kind of worried the LEDs would give me the opposite problem i.e. be too bright compared to my other gauges and there would be nothing I can do about it. Probably ridiculous concern but still on the fence at this time, would sure like to see this in person. Thanks again for your response and definetly interested in your review of other applications for LEDs inside the car.

When I ordered my Polygraphite Kit from PST it came with small plastic containers of specific purpose grease, white in colour, not sure you could get that in a grease gun. I looked on their site trying to get info on it but can't find it. May be worth giving them a call.

Thanks for posting this Dennis, good work. Just to confirm, those LEDs are dimmable right? Also, how well do they blend in with remaining dash light type bulbs i.e. those in the floor console? Thanks

Looks like you're right... and it was made in Van Nuys 3rd week of Jun 1972, black cloth bench seats, midnight bronze exterior . Thanks for taking the time to provide the roof info. I guess the mystery remains as to why my car and some other have this type of roof and also have the factory vinyl roof code. My history goes back with info from the previous owner all the way to 1985 and it had this type of roof at that time. I guess I still need to find the original owner and find out what the hell happened:(.

I think the question or questions here is not whether both are factory, I think we all agree for the reasons you state that the roofs without chrome were likely not factory installed. As Andreas mentioned is it possible that some cars came out of the factory with the code and a vinyl roof to be installed at the dealership? Does sound odd. Why do there seem to be a few of those around with the tag and no evidence of chrome? Maybe it is real difficult to remove and re-install this chrome if you are replacing the vinyl roof to the point where it is simpler to grind it smooth and get rid of the chrome. Seems odd as well, but I can't speak from experience on that, maybe others can. Just trying to find out whatever info people with these uncommon roofs have .

Andreas, I have the C08 code on my tag (third line, just below the paint code) and the GM package specifically for my car lists C08 as Exterior Soft Trim Roof Cover or vinyl roof. Don't have a scanner to back this up but I think you are referring only to the colour code for the vinyl roof vice the actual option. Bottom line is I think both should be on the tag unless this is a plant related difference. There are a lot of options that are not on the tag but this one is on mine as is C60 for air conditioning. Would be curious to have others chime in on this.

I'm surprised, just did mine a few months ago and there was room. The thickness of a wrench is about the same as the thickness of a nut so there has to be room for the open end. Did you try just turning the bolt from underneith to see if you could get it to break free without the nut above turning?