wallaby

We are still having the DAY, but the number was changed to protect the innocent. . . Katman, what part of town are you from? [edit] got it figured out...marksSS

Nah, they are just about as simple as hey look. No fancy gymnastics or anything.

I'm just wondering: I have 71SS with Blue interior. If I had floor shift, what color would the console be? You would figure it would be Blue, but the steering column is Black.... Anyone know?

I was thinking the same thing. I have an aftermarket trans cooler mounted in front of my radiator. I hope I didn't install it upside-down!

I can't imagine that it would make a difference. The fluid just gets pumped to the other end and gets cooled as it goes through. There isn't anything fancy in the radiator, just a length of metal tube coiled up to fit in there and make contact with the coolant. If your lines fit either way, I'd just hook them up.

That's really cool. I was amazed.

Ok now, I'm asking , because I really don't know,.. but aren't the steering column and floor shifter connected to each other somehow so the ignition will lock the shifter?

That should make it clear...

The kits I have dealt with give you the option of how hard you want the shifts. It all came in one box, and could be set up for drag, hi perf street, and RV-heavy duty. I set mine up with the RV mods, and then adjust the part-throttle shifts with the modulator. It shifts firm, but not hard. No neck jerking or tire chirping under normal conditions...full throttle is a whole different animal.

All the switching for vacuum controls is done from the dash panel knobs. That stuff you removed and changed won't affect the heater valve operation. Even if it did, it would be an easy fix with some tubing and a valve from the fish-tank store.

Let's see...you had a 2200 stall converter that lasted 2200 miles? Boy, they know when that converter stalls! I am asking a question and I'm wondering if the 2000-stall converter is noticeably different from stock.

I have seen this issue come up before. The master cylinder could be shaped like a pyramid or a sphere and as long as the mounting bolt patern is the same and the piston is the same, the parts catalog will say it is correct. Mechanically it is identical, therefore it is the same! To the catalogs, original and interchangable are synonymous. My master cyl is not the original, and isn't like either Robs'OR Aarons'! Mine looks a tad shorter than Robs' and has sharper corners. Mine looks more rectangular than oval. I learned here at the FGMCC that the original master had bleeders just above where the brake lines go in. I can't confirm this, it's just what someone here had previously said. My master has the casting bosses for those bleeders, but they were never drilled & tapped.

I plan on being there with my Monte (I hope that doesn't stop others from going) and probably the family, too. Should I start by contacting the Motel, or event people to get my spot secured, or is it too early ? I have decided to go, so now what?

are those numbers @.050 lift, or something different? I'm just wondering if this is a true comparison.

I think those used a funky rivet that had a kind of twisted spline on the shaft to hold it in. Mine did the same thing and I never did anything about it. I thought about using a small machine screw but the hole is too shallow to tap.

I just did a clean/adjust/lubricate thing with my entire wiper system and motor. I found lots of areas that hadn't seen oil or grease for 30+ years, and I was able to devise ways to get oil to the areas that have "sealed bearings". In fact, I was thinking of writing a tech article on this very subject for the newsletter...we'll see if that ever happens. The removal/replacement of the motor as an assembly is very easy.

Eastwood has trans rebuild videos in VHS for 29.95

I bought myself the overhaul manual from....somewhere. I can't remember now. It was just a pamphlet about 1/2 as thick as a magazine, but had lots of pictures. The only drawback I saw was that there wasn't any information about taking measurements or upgrading or any of that. It was just a "take it apart and put it together" manual. It worked for me though. Most of the process can be done with regular tools, but there is a stage where you insert a large assembly with a seal around its perimiter, and I had to get creative to build a seal instaler that would let me get that part in without the seal getting buggered on the jagged case internals. I just used some aluminum sheetmetal I got from the home improvement warehouse (they call it flashing) cut it to size, de-burred the edges real good, rolled it like a tube and set it inside the case. The part I was installing just passed through the tube I made and it was in. Other than that, it was pretty easy. The trick that I learned from a buddy that wasn't mentioned in the book was to set up a clean trash can or equivalent so the trans is tail-end-down when you assemble it.

Could the difference be a wire dangling from the bottom?

The side-marker lights just have a small window where the bulb shines through. The rest of the lens is a reflector and probably looked lit up because it was reflecting camera flash. The window problem should be repairable. Get the door panel off and take a good look. You will probably see where the slop is coming from. I know you can get new plastic rollers that tie the regulator to the window guides. There are also rubbing blocks that keep the window from rattling.

I have to admit, it's an interesting process. I have the standard autometer AF gauge in mine. I tried to use it to setup my new carb. Down at the dyno, the guy had different results with his tailpipe sniffer and informed me that I was running way lean. Now my gauge is mostly just pretty light show under the dash, and I don't pay much attention to it. My carb still isn't right even after trying to make changes. I wish the gauge were more accurate. Oh, and what was your first question? As to the A/F ratios when you close the throttle, I'm not sure...my gauge has no numbers, just lean and rich with LEDs inbetween. Maybe it helps to remember that the throttle blades control AIR flow.

No proof, just experience. I have had two SS454 cars, both CA emissions equipped. I had a '70 and '71, both with Q-jet.

Yea George, that's funny. You sure wouldn't want a spark to ignite THOSE fumes!

Hmmm...ever touch both terminals of a car battery? Go ahead and plant both thumbs on the terminals, and....nothing. I can't see how an alternator could put out enough to charge the driver. If touching the car gives you a shock, then you are closing a circuit. Either the car is charged and you are the ground, or vice-versa. (when you were in high-school did a teacher tell you that you had potential?) [elecrtical humor]. The car can build a static charge just by driving through the air, and you can build a charge by sliding your posterior on synthetic fabrics. The lack of humidity amplifies the problem. The same thing happens inside your clothes drier.

The higher the pressures are in the cylinder when spark is triggered, the harder it is for the ignition to get the job done. How long does a spark last? If it happens at all, that's all you need. There isn't time for a spark to start and then be blown out. If the cylinder pressures are too high, the spark just won't happen. The electricity sent to fire the spark plug will find an easier path and go somewhere else instead. It may jump through the plug wire insulation and find a ground, or jump to another terminal inside the distributor cap, or jump through the rotor straight to the top of the distributor shaft. Compare an HEI system with the older points-type, and you can see that the engineers were designing the HEI to combat these effects. The HEI uses a fatter plug wire because it has thicker insulation, The terminals on the distributor cap are further appart to prevent spark jumping to the wrong terminal, and the rotor is of different design in an effort to keep the spark away from the distributor shaft. Even the coil is different as it has no coil wire; that shortens the distance the spark has to travel, and it eliminates leaks from an extra length of wire and its connections.