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im sure if you go into any local body shop with a small bottle and $10 you can get exactly what you need.

Great choice of colors, IDE love to get a look at the interior and other details of this awesome ride.

hmmm that didnt come out right. Meant to say Ide love to see a how to on how the job was done

would love to see ha how to on hw the job was done

I had a few minutes at work and just read through these replys quickly so if I repeat what someone already said please excuse me . Have you checked the fuel lines for kinks you may possibly have kinked it when you did the brake repair. try running a temp brake line to see how it runs.

If you can not visually find the leak you can start the car and while its idling spray the vac lines and gasket areas with some carb cleaner and when you get to a leak the idle will jump up. That should narrow it down for you. Just go easy on the spraying.

Just a thought but that tool looks very much like a disk brake caliper tool Ive seen in the past. Now that I think of it Im sure that a regular disc caliper tool would work on those washer nuts as well. You can get the tool from autozone as a loaner.

ok i see what im missing , the bushing with the washer attached. thanks for the pic.

have most of it back together, doing a little at a time so I get it all correct. Just wasnt sure about the bushings that attach it to the frame rails. The originals were rusted up pretty badly so I had to replace the whole assembly. I purchased a new poly bushing kit for the car as well a bolt kit but I believe there are still some parts I need, looks like there should be some type of sleeve or insert that keeps everything tight. Also there were no washers in the bolt kit that seem to be correct in size especially for the top of the bushing when I tighten it the upper poly seems incorrect so Im thinking either a larger washer on top or a sleeve inside . Trying to find a diagram but so far have not been able to.

Does anyone have a diagram or pic of how the radiator support goes in. Took mine out a year ago and just want to be sure before I put new one in.

Damn it roars, I can here it from here, LOL Good Luck

wow glad I found this My question is this my setup looks similar to the pic above with the hose pictured on the right going from water pump to intake however where the straight connector is on the left side of the intake I have a vac controlled valve. How do I connect that hose. Im thinking I go from the valve to the heater core then back from the heater core to the open nipple on the left of water pump in pic. CORRECT ?????

sits nice with the 454 , I can definately live with that. Great looking car by the way.

Dealers change parts on cars all the time. Its common practice, when I purchased my Jeep a few years back they switched the wheels with another jeep on the lot that I liked better. I even know of a dealer that switched out a whole cloth interior for a leather one to make the sale.

Big Block, Big Block, Big Block,,,,, Theres no substitute for cubic inches......

Seems Im full of questions this week. My 1972 was originally a small block with a 350 tranny. Im switching to a big block 454 motor and was originally going to use the 400 tranny that came with it but have decided to keep the original 350 tranny that was in the car. Im assuming that the tranny position will be the same so I can retain the original drive shaft. Is this assumption correct or will tranny sit in a different position because of the big block?

My 1972 is originally a small block and Im now dropping in a big block 454. Ive replaced everything in the front end except for the small block springs which Im hoping will make my front end sit a little lower then with the original small block. Anyone know about how much lower it will sit with the 454?

A local mechanic picked up a set of rallies for his 1972 Van. he sand blasted them repainted them and got all new trim rings and center caps before trying them on his van to find they didnt fit. After sitting in his shop for over a year I purchased them for a great price. The lesson here is try them on first. You can even make a simple template of your wheel to be sure. Its very hard if not impossible to tell the difference between a 4.75 and a 5.0 bolt pattern just by looking at it.

If you pick up recharge kit they are available as what they call a first shot. This is a can of freon with compressor lube and conditioner mixed specifically for situations like yours. It may help and for $15 its worth a shot.

Ive been using the super lube synthetic sinc I upgraded my 85 monte front and rear to TRZ components with poly. Great stuff and it doesnt cost a bundle

Looks like that gasket is made specifically for the Moroso aluminum pan, but it may fit others as well, Ide give it a try, its certainly worth a shot. Looks like a real nice design.

thanks again took old one apart and used that as a guide for new setup.

Ok Im ill done with the new upper and lower control arms, springs are in and Knuckles are on. Im waiting on my assembly book to come but dont look like it will be here today. Anyone have a diagram of how the bearings and rotor are supposed to be set up? I have all new bearings, rotors, backing plates, caliper brackets, calipers, and all new bolts just not sure exactly how to reassemble. I didnt take the old ones apart because they were just to rusted up so Im not sure exactly how to reinstall.

other sides done tok 15 minutes as opposed to 3 hours on the first one. Well live and learn. now i have to do the bearings, rotors, backing plates and brake system. Waiting for book to come in the mail first.

there ya go, thanks sam. Got it out now I know better for the other side. Thanks to everyone for the help.