CKZ03

Went to a show yesterday in Lansing, won best custom paint, woo hoo! 9 montes there total only 2 first gens, mine and another 72. Very nice show with third party judging. http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh501/06mistreSS/Miscellaneous/RE%20Olds%20Car%20Capital%20Auto%20Show%202015/DSC_2079_zpsyiptta8w.jpg http://reoldsmuseum.org/car-capital-auto-show-2015

Finished up on "operation leaky intake" last nite and drove her to work today, so far so good. Gonna beat on this engine the rest of summer, BAD ENGINE!!! It deserves to be punished. Dropped off the replacement block at the machine shop Tuesday. New engine will be 500hp 383 full roller. Using a 71 dated 4 bolt dump truck block

Feel ur pain Larry, starting to make me not feel so good

Tons of options out there as this swap keeps getting more popular, 68-72 Chevelle search will be ur best bet as many more Chevelles have already been done than montes. http://m.summitracing.com/search/product-line/hedman-husler-ls-engine-swap-headers

I'm getting real good at this, just starting to enjoy this hobby Did I mention it's never "DONE"?

Ya know Tony, it's kinda sad 2 guys from Michigan hope 2 meet up on Pennsylvania but sometimes that's what the schedule permits. Sorry on my behalf things fell apart. My primary goal is to get his turd running for Woodward and I hope to see you there next month

Disconnect and remove it, you don't really need it anyhow. As Sam said, it's just for the steering wheel lock and so you can't pull into gear or neutral without turning key to on position. 70's anti theft system

Finally getting around to doing something about a massive coolant leak that I first thought was gushing out of the pass side head gasket but under further review seems to be the rear of intake. This happened the afternoon before the eastern meet and resulted in me canceling out on the event. Been pretty pissed at the car lately, been stewing over what I'm going to do about repairing it. Seriously thought about putting the cover on it for the rest of the summer and ripping the engine out this winter. Finally decided to go ahead and fix it, what else do I have to do anyway, it's been raining nearly everyday anyhow. Good rainy day project right! Tough decision as the engine will be replaced this winter anyhow with something a bit more stout. Really hate to put the labor back into something thats getting pulled in about a 1000 miles. Oh well, big disappointment missing the eastern meet, trying to get over it as well as the anger towards my Monte, must press on. Took me nearly 2 weeks of him hawing around to make the call to fix the dam thing. Part way into it now. It's just such BS having to do this to an engine with 3700 miles on it.

quite a few guys here run steel chevelle inners including myself, pretty much a direct fit with the exception of the aftermarket factor. you may need to hog out a few holes here & there, but otherwise a fantastic fit that in my opinion looks way better than the plastic. Although not "factory correct" you also will not have to replace them every few years because the battery cracked one bouncing around. several vendors out there and these steel are usually way cheaper than the Monte plastic http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/flipbook/Chevelle/#p=162 U will have to excuse the major dust on the engine compartment, this was just after paint and way before detailing

Steel Chevelle inners? Ya, work just fine and look good too

Heres the scenario guys, need help from the engine guru's here, engine building is definetly out of my league. This winters project is to build a 383 full roller with a budget of $4500 or less (less would be better ). Goal is "streetable" 450-475 hp/tq, prefer the torque/hp curve to peak at lower rpm's, 5500 or less. Im not drag racing, just want a stout azz street engine that kicks in nice & hard at cruising speeds. So Im thinking i need a cam that works well in the 1500-5500 rpm range. Parts at no cost I have on hand already, 350 4 bolt block, air gap intake, dist, cap & wires, all accessory pulleys and drives and covers, pans and such. Going to use AFR heads but not sure which ones yet - AFR180's or 190's (there goes most of the budget) not sure on what chamber size to go with yet either. Thinking 10 or 9.5 to 1 compression should be fine for me??? Here is the remainder of the drivetrain already in place - Bowtie Overdrives 200-4R Stage 2 or level 2 (whatever they call it) with the converter they sold me, they claim its a 2200-2400 stall (dont want to go any higher stall than 2600 for heat issues, this car is driven alot and long distances) and running 3.73 gears. I also have an excellent engine builder/machinist here in town that works very cheap, so his labor will be minimal - $500 max for all disassembly, cleaning and inspection, machining and reassembly. Problem with him is he cant suggest or recommend any parts combinations and is relying on me to just bring him the parts I choose. So here we go guys, what do you have for me? First problem is - both Eagle and Scat have nice 383 rotating assembly kits, but range in price from $600 to $2000. cast crank, forged crank, cast pistons, forged pistons, internally balanced, externally balanced bla bla bla etc. what the he77 do I really need here?

I think Fletch has a soft spot for the first gen Monte, I hope he is blown away by our #'s this year and stops to interview another member. Hope he makes it a annual tradition, we got back to back years going now. Just an observation, he prefers to interview cars with plenty of space around them, like cars on the end of the row or cars with empty spaces around it. Definetly some things to be proud of Rob!!!

From what I have observed is it seems all 350 2 barrel cars came with the 10 bolt rear. I'm assuming all 350 4 barrel cars came with the 12 bolt rear as mine did, 72 "J" code Custom. Basing this on only what I have seen though, and I have seen WAY more 350 2 barrel cars than 350 4 barrel cars. Curious myself if this is truly the case.

Easiest way to do it is mount/screw the bracket to your console then locate the two dimples forward on the tunnel for the front two mounting screw holes. Drill out the front two holes at the factory dimples and screw the console down at the front. Then square it up front to back, it's now in the correct position. Now you can either tack weld the new bracket in place or drill and screw it, your choice. Easy peasy

Definetly not the same as the urban dictionary description! Tony I only have a few small complaints on the plug & chug, the holes are pretty small and will only hold cans or small diameter water bottles. Course you wouldn't want to overweight the thing with a couple of big gulps anyhow, after all it is just sitting in the ashtray door which isn't the strongest thing to begin with. And they could have matched the vinyl grain better to match either the dash or seats. Other than that it works just fine and looks nice. Handy to hold other items as well. Bill that floor mat isn't robbing any power out of my car, I get every bit of the 5hp my Briggs is putting out under that hood

May be an option for others to use here as well. I needed to add a trans temp sensor as some extra insurance to monitor my pricey transmission investment, but where to put it??? I didnt want to drill any holes in my new dash or have just a single gauge mounted in an odd position somewhere so the plug & chug seemed like a possibility for something like this. I have it wired to a 4 prong quick disconnect just inside the ashtray so I can simply pull the whole thing out, shut the ashtray door and its like they where both never there. Most likely pulling it out at shows & stuff where they both look a little out of place on these cars. You could easily mount a triple gauge set to the front underside as well. I just preferred this one to be on the left side pointing up a bit for easy viewing.

Here is a NOS one straight out of the box, don't cha wish you had one like this?

interesting story there, WOW! Sorry to hear of your smoked trans Mike, looks like its your turn for some slithering. My two sons are burnout junkies after taking them with me to Woodward last summer. Cant go anywhere now without them hounding me to do a burnout. Its so hilarious hearing my 3 year old say "do a burnout daddy". Last time I had second gear was just before a good burnout they talked me into (Im pretty easy to give in) its not really what smoked my trans, but it definitely helped pull the plug on the dying patient. Unfortunately it was not giving me any indication of trouble, kinda weird deal. Oh well, problem fixed for $300 and a bunch of my time/labor and she's go to go again.

Seems I have devised a way to copy and paste again. That makes me this happy... and lets try a link... come on, I know you want one! http://www.zippysack.com/

Your correct Larry, this was on the other end of the Repops box - Luttys part # 7603

For the wide belt moldings I strongly suggest using "Repops" brand labeled "authentic style". Part # on mine from Lutty's was MT106A

I bought the Viking front & rear coilover kit from PST's eBay store for $1169.00 shipped to my door. You won't regret it. I'm running the coilovers with completely stock control arms F & R along with with factory F41 sway bars and have no issues and love the major difference they made. I believe they are 450# spring rate front and 250# rear, small block with air. Just call PST and they will give you the info on set up needed for your application. http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.9939/.f?sc=12 Not PST, but this is the same kit as an example http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=141565048478

I'm running Classic Instruments "Skydrive" for my speedo/odometer calibrations, don't get much more accurate than this... http://www.hotrod.com/news/classic-instruments-skydrive-gps-speedometer/ http://www.classicinstruments.com/ However, only flaw is, it doesn't work in tunnels and occasionally going down roads with large, dense overhead tree branch/leaf coverage.

Here is a good article on this, particularly reasons to choose the 200-4r vs the 700r4 in higher HP applications. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/ccrp-0903-th-200-4r-transmission-build/

same problem here