Leghome Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Took the enigne to Qunilin's Machine Shop this morning. Dan the owner is on vacation until next week. The guy I talked to said they would tear it down and have it all cleaned up when he gets back. Dan will then call me to find out what I kind of set I want. I have been looking around on the internet and was getting confused, which I do easily, so I called my son in-law Jamey and we talked about different cams and set ups. Leaning toward a Crane cam but that is not set in stone. For my style of driving Jamey recommended somewhere around a 222 to 226 duration with a 450 to 480 lift since I will be using my stock heads. I am going with a roller cam and roller lifters. Quinlin's asked me what kind of shape the inside was in and it is still showing the crossing hone lines in the cylinders. That means just new rings and using my old pistons thus saving some money. I do not need any high dollar racing stuff because I never do any racing. I talked to another Monte owner last week and he has a very similar setup as to what I am looking at and he got 19 to 20 MPG with a turbo 350 tranny and 3:53 gears going to Florida and back a few months ago. Me having a 700r4 and 3:73 gears I would think I would do about the same MPG wise and maybe even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 is that duration @.050 lift? if so, that's too big for what you want, and you don't have enough compression for it here's the cam I used in my 350 that I built, worked very well and got good fuel economy http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=155&sb=2 I like this one better for your application http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1834&gid=254 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share Posted December 1, 2015 How does this one look Sam. It is a crane cam part number 119811 HR-260-2-12 IG http://www.cranecams.com/68-71.pdf It has the characteristics of what I am doing Daily driving/towing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 that one is much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Went and talked to Dan Quinlin at the machine today. We have decided on a roller cam and lifters, flat top pistons and roller tip rockers. He is going to bore it .20 thousands over because it is a lot looser than he would like it to be. The crank did not have to be ground, the heads are in excellent shape as is the block except for being loose. It will be done the first of next week and only cost $2,200. I should have a nice street performer and great running machine. Yahooo, Yipee, and alleluia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 The engine is being reassembled and good progress is being made although slowly. My back is bothering me so I only work until I get stiff. That might be an hour but today I lasted 4 hours. Got all of the brackets and pulleys back from the powder coater and they do look fantastic. It was well worth the $60 I gave for that process. When Itook them to him he was amazed that I had them all media blasted before and that saved me about half the cost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Boyte Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Looking good Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 My son in-law Jamey and I got the engine running last weekend. So I finished putting all the trinkets and other decorative bling and took it our for a drive yesterday. After about I heard a squealing like a fan belt. Stopped the car and checked everything out and belts were all good and taut. Drove it a while longer and when I got home started putting a screwdriver in different places on the engine and the noise was coming from the distributor. Pulled the dist. this morning and it shows some wear on the shaft and looking in the housing the bushing show some very minor grooving. Also there was black dirt on the top bushing that was very slick. The wear on the gear is near the center of the teeth. So could it just be the shaft and bushings or should I look for something more? The car ran great except for the nasty noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 It is always great when you get the new mill in and take it for a shakedown run. Makes all the waiting and hard work worth the effort. Any chance you have a spare distributor around you could drop in to confirm your findings? You could start pulling the belts and running the engine briefly. No squeal then it is one of the drive accessories. Then process of elimination. You say the engine is running well but you might want to check for a small vacuum leak. Sounds like Anyway great job. That engine has to be a hoot!!! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Bought a rebuilt Dist on Monday and got it installed and running and found oil sitting on top and dripping from the fuel pump while on another shake down cruise. Took it off and put on a new gasket, went for a short run and more oil on top of pump. I am beginning to think I may need a new fuel pump as I cannot find any oil on the engine anywhere near there. Frustrating to say the least. Will take another look at it tomorrow as I am needing to step away for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Are you sure the oil is not coming from the valve cover above? If you have a newly painted engine and new oil, you may have a leak from the value cover and not see it. Run you fingers over that area and check for residue. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 I did run a paper towel when I got back home over that area Dave and did not find any oil but I am going to check it out again this morning after it has cooled down. I thought the same thing yesterday and I idid paint the front of the motor with POR 15 Chevy orange engine paint so it is very shiney so a more thorough inspection is warrented for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 also check the front of the intake manifold, the oil can run down the block deck surface and down to the fuel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Just took it out for another run and more oil on top of fuel pump. When it cools down will go and check again to see if I can track it down. I did feel la little bit of oil where the head meets the block so it might be the intake. Going to take off the alternator and give it good look see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Sorry to hear about all of your issues Larry, it shouldn't happen that way... You didn't say if the noise is now gone. rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 The noise has not returned YET. The anti freeze leak is fixed just had to put sealer on the second bolt on the passenger side to fix that. I start a part time job tomorrow delivering pats for th local NAPA store. Three days and 20 to 30 hours per week. I like the sound of the 20 hours per week better but beggars can't be choosers. More car part and golfing money htan I had last year for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I had a slight oil leak coming from the valve cover. I had a little bit of old cork gasket left in the rear corner causing it not to seal properly. Good luck Larry, usually something not to major......fingers crossed buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Found all of my oil leaks are all taken care of but one, There was one major leak and it is the oil pan but it is now only a minor drip but still needs to be dealt with. It is on the starter side where the dip stick would be if it was in that side. It was squirting out when reving the motor quickly or holding is at a high speed. Going down the highway and when I punched it hard I looked like a bug fogger. Just finished rereading the oil pan removal thread because it looks like that is my next job for my 72. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Went down tot he machine shop (Quinlin's) today and A=Dan gave me a one pc gasket for the oil pan. He said before I drop the pan to replace said gasket he would try to clean where the leak is and silicone it. I will talk to my main mechanic and see what his preference is. Dan apologized over and over for the problem but it is water under the bridge now. I had priced a one pc gasket at NAPA and it listed for over $53 but my employee cost is $21. With Dan giving me the one pc I have no expense just the time involved for the replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Larry, just keep in mind that the one piece oil pan gaskets have to have the pan drawn to the block with equal tension. This can be accomplished using the four corner bolt or studs to draw the pan to the block. The valley portion of the gaskets are thicker and will squeeze nicely. You should also have metal spacers in each hole of the gasket allowing you to torque the nuts/bolts much more than with the traditional 4 piece gasket sets. Of course, I have describe the method for the FelPro blue one piece gaskets. - Hope that helps with your endeavor. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Dave It is the Fel-Pro blue one pc gasket. I understand you to say do the four corners first and then the side bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yes, draw the corners in first. Then as the sides get close or touch the gasket, then proceed to tighten evenly all of the remaining fasteners, including the corners. You'll see what I am talking about when you put the pan in place, ready to fasten. It will appear that the gasket is incorrect or too big/fat. I think I even had to use longer bolts to get me started on the corners and then change them to the normal size after I got the pan started. It's all about the valley portion of the gasket material being over-sized and needing to be squeezed for a tight fit. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 How high will I have to raise the motor to get the pan off? It looks to have a to of room between the pan and cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Not sure Larry. Never removed/replaced an oil pan while engine still in car. Always did mine on an engine stand. I'm sure someone will chime in. Also, that FelPro gasket should be installed dry. No Silicone. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Again thanks Dave I was going to ask about putting silicone between the timing chain cover and pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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