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Turbo 400 issue.


Monteman1971

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My turbo 400 won't shift again. It winds up a lot before it will shift. I had this problem a while ago and replaced the vacuum module and it went away. Think the module went bad again?

 

Which way do I turn the screw inside it to maybe adjust it again to shift sooner?

 

I've also heard that it's not good for the transmission to manually down shift it....anyone else hear this?

 

Thanks,

Steve

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Steve, unless your A/T is built to down shift like mine is(full race tranny), it is not good to downshift an A/T unless your rpm's are on the lower side. - Dave

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Steve,

B&M and TCI make governor recalibration kits that you may want to look in to- I have used the B&M with good results.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI%2D326500&N=700+400252+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch....k=KeywordSearch

 

Change your shift points.

These governor recalibration kits will allow you to adjust the shift points of your transmission after it is installed in your vehicle. These kits are very useful for transmission swaps, or if you have a car that is very light, or has a low rear gear ratio. They also work great for bracket cars retaining an automatic 1-2 shift.

 

I found this tidbit from another site: The vacuum modulator and governor work together to control shift points and shift firmness. If there is no vacuum supplied to the modulator, the trans will shift late and hard. As long as the vacuum modulator is connected to a vacuum port in the intake, it should work ok. The adjustment screw is a fine-tuning thing, it won't prevent it from shifting.

 

Do you still have a good vacuum signal to the modulator?

 

I have never had any problems downshifting a 400- I often downshift to second (or first if I'm going slow enough) and then pound the throttle.

 

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i've always manually shifted my trans and never hurt one yet.

 

Th350 (two of them) and a 700r4

 

the 1st th350 was dying when I got it.. the front pump was shot..

2nd th350 I took out and replaced with the 700 :P~

 

you problaby don't want to manually downshift under power because it can put a lot of strain on things like sprags and and stuff... downshift, then mat it.. and you'll be ok.

 

btw.. GM designed them to downshift manually while moving.. that's what those lower gears are for!! (read your owners manual).. it says to use lower gears when decending steep grades etc.. i don't think they expect you to come to a complete stop before selecting a lower gear.. these aren't lawnmowers!

 

i was using L2 a LOT on that ride out to the oak hurst tea room.. but then I wasn't using the brakes at all on the way down those hills :>

 

 

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i am going to have the 'safetys' removed my 700r4 because it won't let me downshift into lower gears when I want to.. (mine is built to handle it)

 

I can get to about 40mph in 1st gear, but the trans forces me down to about 20mph before I can use it.. that is a pain on the street. so basicly I can't even get an automatic downshift when my engine would let me... 6000 rpm in 1st gear is 44mph, but that's assuming no converter slip too.

 

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Thanks guys.

 

I'll check the vacuum tonight and I've ordered a new module as well. The one I put in before was a "fram" and I really don't have any confidence in their stuff anymore.

 

The governer thing will be my next move if this doesn't work.

 

Steve

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Good thread from Chevelle forum on trannys, including downshifting etc.

 

Transmission Thread

 

I have blown up a sprag by downshifting unfortunately, then after doing some research I found this link. Read through the posts, there are a couple very good ones. In particular, look at #19 by Jakeshoe. I assume that he knows his stuff because of the detail he goes into, but I can't say for sure as I'm not nearly as kowledgable on trannys.

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Don't forget to check that the kickdown switch isn't telling the trans you have the throttle down..

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  • 4 weeks later...

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