BuffaloBillPatri Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 My GV works great. I leave it in auto mode. In order to get it 2* up to match my pinion 2* down, I had to beat the hell out of the tunnel. Used a G-force bat-wing crossmember under frame. BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RARE MC Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 The instructions say to measure your shaft angles before removal. I didn't do that and don't want to reinstall the engine to do it either. Instructions say angles have to be greater than 0.5 degrees and less than 3 degrees. Has anyone had vibration problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I did not measure mine before hand. I can't remember my exact angle it is at now (been too long) but I do remember it being a little over the 3 degrees they suggest, luckily I have no vibrations with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue502 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Gear Vendors did make a remote unit for other applications.You might do a search through Google.I was surprized at the number of people who had problems.Someone mentioned it was critical to change the fluid often.How often do you guys change the fluid?If I'm trying to sell my built 700 and converter. I have an offer to trade both plus $1000 for a low mileage GV and built 400.I'm still throwing it around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RARE MC Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 CROSS MEMBER NEEDS TO BE NOTCHED FOR T400/454 No where did I read that I was going to have to modify my cross member (again). However, when it didn't fit, I was able to find both good a scary photos on the internet. The scary one left a toothpick between the two halves and welded plates on the faces of the cuts. Another was from Racetech that added material to the front and notched the rear. I'm going to do something like that except better. I think if I'd known, this may have been a deal killer and I'd go with the 4L80. Fortunately, my fabricator buddy Gregg Peterson (with Rob Markworth & Jimmy Shine) who boxed the frame and did the cross member 25 years ago is still available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RARE MC Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Cross member is done. Had to cut it almost all the way through. Boxed and gusseted the other side to hold the load. Now I'm looking to put lower gears and a 9" behind it. Thinking of ~3.90 with 275/60 R15 MT ET Drag Radials. I had offset all figured out with the 12 bolt, but now can do whatever I want with the Ford. Maybe go with Corvette "AZ" wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RARE MC Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 Abandoned the 9" idea. I don't think my sway bar will fit. It is a 1-3/8 dia. bar from H-O specialties. Going to put Strange 3.91 on the series 3 carrier. Getting the gears and install parts from Tom's Differentials in Idaho. Tom built my 12 bolt about 20 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 LS5 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 I've been reading a lot about this GV and I do believe I'm sold on it. The 4L80 or 4L85 is a ton of money and the control box is like another grand on top of that - forget it. Couple questions - some are saying to modify the crossmenber on the 400. I believe they make a cross member for like $100. Has anybody used that one? Can somebody explain how you would "split gears" down the 1/4 mile? I can understand that you would wind out 1st, then 1st-over, but do you have to hit the button and move the shifter to 2nd for the next split? My 400 isn't instantaneous so if I hit the button as I'm shifting to 2nd, do I run the risk of hitting 1st-over for an instant before it hits 2nd? Is there some kind of electronics to knock it out of "over" when manually shifting to the next higher gear? (am I making sense here?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 I don't think I would try to "split" gears during a pass, it would be nice to go to to overdrive at the big end when it is starting to bounce off the chip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mom's Car Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 That reminds me of a 1985 Dodge Colt Turbo I had years ago. It had a 4 speed with a high and low range. They called it a twin stick. I actually left it in low range then came out in first then second then high range. I don't think I shifted it back into low range other then the initial launch. I had nitrous on that thing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 It sounds a little complicated to try and split every gear while trying to be quick. I'd imagine the splitting feature would be handy if you were trying to pull a grade with a motorhome or a pickup & trailer, but not drag racing. I know my semi truck has 18 speeds in the trans, but without a trailer it accelerates much faster if I start out in 4th and skip every other gear or so and let the engine torque get me going instead of rpm. It might take some trial & error, but the splittting feature might help at the big end. You could try 1,2, 2 over, 3.... or 1,2,3, then 3 over to get you there. As you mentioned, it might be tough to change from 2 over to 3 under without getting complicated and costing you time. Depending on your rear end gearing, one of these patterns might improve your time. If you have tall gears you may cross the line in 2 over and never have to deal with shifting to 3 under. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 I've done the gear splitting at the track and come to the conclusion quickly that my 4.11 gear is way to steep to see any gain doing it. Matter of fact I ran the exact same numbers when I used it versus just shifting into second then third. Now if I had a 3.42 gear (which I want) or even a 2.73 I can see you getting the benefit of splitting...you would have time to actually think while you are shifting unlike with my 4.11 I'm in constant shift mode as they are one right after each other without breathing... You could have a high gear ratio and enjoy the gas mileage of it and an even higher one once the gear vendors is in 3rd over and then have the 6 gears for the track (although 1st over is not really suggested for racing, just skip that one) to keep your car in it's powerband all the way down the track. It really helps to have a ratchet shifter when using a gear vendors. This way you don't have to worry about over shifting it which makes for one less thing to worry about when racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Cross member is done. Had to cut it almost all the way through. Boxed and gusseted the other side to hold the load. Now I'm looking to put lower gears and a 9" behind it. Thinking of ~3.90 with 275/60 R15 MT ET Drag Radials. I had offset all figured out with the 12 bolt, but now can do whatever I want with the Ford. Maybe go with Corvette "AZ" wheels? No pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RARE MC Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 I mounted a switch on the shifter with a couple of drilled and tapped holes. It activates on the bar that the shift lock handle controls. Squeeze the shifter and I get direct drive, let go and it's over drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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