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Changed my camshaft/ Opinions


BigBlockMonte

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Hey all

I changed my camshaft, and my carb. I also found out the numbers stamped on the pistons, so maybe someone can give me an accurate compression number.

 

New Set-up

1990 4bolt main 454 block .30 over

Sealed Power Forged Pistons(stamped numbers are- (L2465F/14308-12-A)

Balanced Rotating Assembly

1971 Oval Port Heads (6272292) I have the small valves 2.06/1.72

Comp Cams Dual Valve Springs (924-16)

Comp Cams Pushrods (7154-16)

Comp Cams Camshaft (.552 Intake) (.555 Exhaust)///Duration at .50" lift is (230 Intake) (236 Exhaust). Advertised Duration is (274 intake) (286 Exhaust) Part# is 11-246-3//Grind # is XE274H

Roller Rockers

Holley Avenger 770cfm Carb

Holley Mechanical Fuel Pump 6.5 to 7psi

Snowperformance Water/Methanol Injection (To raise octane level)

MSD Cap & Rotor w/Stock HEI

Taylor Plug Wires w/AC Delco rt43 Plugs set at .35

Edelbrock 2.0 Performer w/1 inch riser

Summit Racing Aluminum Rad w/Shroud

Hooker Competition Full Length Street Headers

700r4 trasmission w/2400 stall

12 Bolt Eaton Posi Rear End w/Richmond 3.73 Gears

 

I think thats about it for the performance parts, If I forgot something let me know. Hoping you all can tell me what to expect for running this, Thanks everyone. I'm pretty much done for awhile, My first born is about to be here. She'll be here Wed May 6th. Thanks again Everyone

 

 

 

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I think your gonna have a smile from ear to ear when you mash the pedal...Many of us run that cam in both BB's and SB's. Great power to 6000. I take mine to 6500 w/1.6 rr's.. Lots of write ups on your combo in the mags. I run it in my 355 and got into the 12's, Robyn ran it in his Sb, also in the 12's. Monteman1971 ran it in his 402 and it hauled [censored]. Mike Voltz wants to use it for his next build. I'm not a combo expert but I would say that w/ your stall, gear and carb your spot on. Maybe a nice head in the future for some more ponies?? I think this combo will be a tire fryer for sure...good luck!! Al

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Was the block decked ? Do you know how much the piston was in the hole at TDC? Your piston has a slight dome, but your heads are open chamber heads that can be from 118 to 123 cc's.

 

Typically stock blocks will have the pistons about .030" in the hole. To increase compression blocks are typically brought down .025 to 0.30" to get better "quench". the block in my Monte I left .005" for resurfacing in the future if necessary. With the heads assuming they have not been milled, I believe the pistons you have are a 10cc dome and assuming the pistons are .025" from flush with the surface of the block i would estimate your static compression to be more like 9.0 to 9.2:1.

 

No need to worry, compression is overrated when it comes to making power. In large camshafts with a lot of overlap, the static compression is very important since so much cylinder pressure bleeds off during overlap. this is not critical in your setup as you have a good combination of parts and the compression ratio (static) is in a good range.

 

the converter is a little tight Except that you have a 700R4 with a steeper first gear that helps the torque multiplication at launch..

 

nice setup and good luck withthe newborn !! I have 3 - 13,9,7

and they have their moments, but they are the best thing my wife and I did.

 

Tom

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I got her fired up now. Has a nice sounding idle. After a 20 min break-in for the new cam, I adjusted the base timing. I have it at .23BTDC and 33-34 total. I adjusted the jets in the carb from the origial settings. They had a 72(primary) and a 75(secondary). It was a bit too rich. It was running a 11.1AFR during cruise and almost the same at WOT. I rejetted it to have a 69(primary) and a 72(secondary). Its still abit rich, but safe. It now runs at a 13.1-13.4 AFR during cruise and a 12.1-12.4 at WOT.

 

How should I set it up to perform properly? Or is that a dyno session or track session to distinguish that?

 

How do these motors like to run, richer AFR and more timing, or leaner AFR and less timing. What do you all do? Thanks for helping.

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As you add mods to the engine it will want more fuel and more timing. Adjust the idle screw to bring up the engine speed to around 3,200 and with your hand, begin to restrict the airflow going into the carb. (you can also do this by slowly tilting the choke plate if you prefer). This will give you an idea of how well it is jetted for cruise conditions. If the engine speed increases as you restrict airflow, the engine wants more fuel. If the jetting is correct, you should notice only slight speed increase or none at all. It would be normal for the engine to slow down as you choke it, so in this simple test you are just looking for speed increase to ballpark your jetting on the primary side. If the engine only slows down as you restrict airflow, you are probably running rich already.

AFR numbers are nice to have but are only part of the puzzle. You need to determine what the engine WANTS and aim for that. Try the above test and see where the engine runs best and then take note of that AFR number. That will be your ideal cruise AFR, or perhaps a bit leaner.

 

...and I can't say enough bad stuff about my experience with the Edelbrock Performer 2-0 intake. My 468 made much more power with its original factory intake. IMHO, you have done everything correct except that. The Edelbrock performer RPM is much better at making power with no downside. I'm liking my RPM intake and have no complaint with it at all.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Maybe a nice head in the future for some more ponies?? I think this combo will be a tire fryer for sure...good luck!! Al

 

I am interested in getting an different heads for it. I know the ones I have are a little restrictive. What heads would be best for me to get to use with my current camshaft. I was thinking of getting a bare head and just transfer my springs over to them, and buy a set of valves. As always opinions welcome. Thanks

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I am guessing that these will be more expensive than you are wanting, but if it were me, I would save up for some Brodix Racerites. Amazing performance with small intake ports--great for torquey street engines and they can be massaged to run 9's! Bob West on the Chevelle forum run 9's with them. Hard to believe!

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Why woudn't I want to use these heads. Light weight, They have to flow a hell of a lot better than the ones I have. I believe I can get these in an oval port as well so I wouldn't have to change my intake. I Can just grab a set of valves for them and swap my springs over and walla. If this is a bad decision and will hurt my performance, please let me know, and why you feel that way. THanks so much

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BBC-Big-B...alenotsupported

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I did a quick google for the procomp heads, and from what I can find STAY AWAY from them!

 

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/aftermarket-product-review/359195-pro-comp-aluminum-heads.html

 

Dyno tests don't lie.. http://www.boatstoreonline.com/procomp.html

 

If you want a less expensive Alum head look at Patriot Performance, they are a US company too. https://www.patriot-performance.com/about.html

 

 

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THe patriot heads for the big block look nice, but Sam (Bones) has told me that they are too big for my 454. Do they make this head in a oval port? or smaller intake runners? I read the description and it didn't say. unless I'm blind. Which could be the case. I don't get much sleep these days smile

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procomp heads are Chinese made, unless you want to turn you big block into a ricer lol

 

remember...I said in my opinion 320cc's are too big, many will disagree with me, I think they kill the low end, many people run them, but for a street driven big block, ovals rule (I am thinking about going back to ovals), with your pistons you can't use Edelbrock heads with the 110cc chambers (ask me how I know this lol ) the race rites ovals are a great head, so are AFR 305cc intake runner but are rectangle port

 

the one weak point I see in your combo is the intake, ask Wallaby about his experience with the Eddy 2.0, the Air Gap makes awesome torque and would be my choice

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the one weak point I see in your combo is the intake, ask Wallaby about his experience with the Eddy 2.0, the Air Gap makes awesome torque and would be my choice

 

 

I took a carbide bit to the openings and matched them to the gasket about a 2 inches in, and it has a 1 inch spacer on it. Is that still not very good? Getting another intake is not biggie at all, If It will improve the car, I'm all for it.

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So this intake is rally bad [you said a naughty!] huh? You guys are getting me pretty excited about this. If I didn't have the little one, I'd be trying to drive up to summit today and getting it. I'm really going to notice a difference huh?

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Oh one more thing before I buy this intake. Is it any taller than the 2.0 performer. I'm at my limit with the 2.0 performer, & 1 inch spacer for the meth injection. I have a little 10"x2" air cleaner on the holley carb and I'm maxed. If it's the exact same size. (cool), If it's a little shorter (great). Anyone verify this for me? I'll hold off buying until I hear back from you all. Thanks

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The best way to know the height of both of them is to go to the Edelbrock site and find both manifolds, they list the heights there...

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/manifolds_main.shtml

 

Scroll to the bottom of this page to see what the A and B measurements mean.

 

Performer 2.0 Manifold height: A-4.300", B-5.400"

RPM Air Gap Manifold ht.: A-4.45", B-6.0"

 

Add them together and divide by 2

 

So Performer 4.85" and RPM Air Gap 5.25" going to be tight if you put the spacer on the Air Gap...

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That sucks. I dont have another 1/4 of a inch. Unless I run without an air cleaner, and put just a screen or some kind filter over the carb. hmmm. gotta think about this one. no money for a cowl hood, only seen one on a car, and it fit like crap. hmmm. Wonder if there is any way to take alittle from the 1 inch spacer and have it still even across to seal against the intake. decisions.........

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