USMCBLB125 Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Wallaby, Larger rotors dissipate heat faster because they have more surface area for the heat to escape. Similar to a heatsink on electronic devices. Heat moves from areas of higher heat to areas of lower heat, and the more material that you have exposed to those areas of lower heat the faster the process goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Little update. I have a new master and booster coming, because mine was starting to go bad, and for disc / disc you should have a master with equal size reservoirs, and the stock one does not. I am getting a 8" dual booster and master from CPP (Classic Performance Products) but I ordered it off eBay from their eBay store and saved around $100. The car is / was back on all fours last weekend, and the brakes work good, I just did not like the pedal I had. I talked to Chad and he said if we wanted to do a group buy, that he might be able to get us a good deal. We would have to order them all at the same time. Anyone interested? I can start a poll if you want... Here is a updated picture of them on the car, showing how I routed the rubber line to the steel line. Need to do a little touch up painting once I am done under there. Here is a shot thru the wheel (can't see much) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Ian here is my booster and master cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 The big brown truck showed up today! CPP upgraded me to a chrome master and booster because they sold too many on the eBay ad. So for $197 shipped I think I got a great deal! Now to get it installed! Updates to follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Ian, make sure you remove the master cylinder from the booster and bench bleed it before installing. You may already know that but figured I would remind you. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Dave if I am going to pressure bleed it, do I need to bench bleed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Ian, you still need to bleed the master cylinder. It is not hard at all. Air bubbles can get trapped in areas and not allow for the fluid to flow as required. Some do not require many pumps and still others require a good number of pumps. Just remove the nuts that hold the MC and put one ear of the MC in a vise. Make sure the MC is level. The MC probably came with plastic tubing to go from the reservoir to the exit fittings. Some one man bleeding kits come with this tubing as well. Fill the reservoir and push the piston in and release(pump slowly, rapid/hard pumping may send fluid everywhere). I use a phillips screw driver with protection between the piston and the head of the screw driver. Once there are no bubbles showing when you pump it, it is bled. I have had some only take 5-7 pumps. My current Wilwood Alum MC took about 30 pumps. It is also wise to already have the booster on the fire wall, that way you can take the MC, with the fluid still in the reservoir and install it on the booster. For the most part, pressure or gravity bleeding brakes is for the lines, caplipers, and cylinders. I would not recommend trying to bleed the MC while you bleed the whole brake system. Some may have done it this way and may of had this method work. I would say they got lucky or the brakes are still not functioning 100% properly. It may seem like a pain to do it this way but we are talking about your brakes and it only takes 15-20 minutes or extra time. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks guys! Yeah Allan I bought one to do the new rears as you have to unmount them to get the bleeder to face up to get the air out. It works nice, but don't leave it under the hood and start the engine (another ask me how I know) Brake fluid all over the engine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monteman1971 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Brake fluid is nasty stuff.......It can make a mess real fast....lol... The master and booster are going to look great in your Monte Ian....can't wait to hear how the car stops.... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 It stops good! I need new front pads and calipers now (got a little pull) I am going to go semi metallic this time. I can lock the rears now, which I could not do all the time with the drums, but I think the master was part of that problem. I am happy with the kits fit and function. I know Drum brakes will work OK, but I like the look and over all all the new parts work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Finally took them out of the camera It was dark when I got done. I'll try to take a few more later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knightrider Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 If a group buy gets put together for the rear disc setup I want one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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