BuffaloBillPatri Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I used ARP studs for my carrier bearing caps + the thick TA cover with the allen set screws that press on the carrier bearing caps. I don't quite understand why having an extra quart would damage anything other than possibly making a mess on a driveway? I already put in 4 qts. & don't want to waste + I couldn't get the front square plug out. There is lots of room in there for expansion + a new vent on top. I would guess (because I don't have knowledge on the extra quart effects) that more lube would get to axles & help cool? I used about 2 ftlbs torque by hand with allen wrench, to where it felt snug. I can't believe that this would deform the caps & outer race of carrier bearing by more than a few millionths of an inch? BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hey Bill, I believe you should try and get that plug out. 4 quarts is twice what you are supposed to have in there. I believe you are supposed to have around 2.4 quarts. I have not heard of what can happen with overfilling, but I would assume the oil could become over aerated. I think you will be fine with the 2lbft on the caps. My Moser cover said not to exceed 5 lbft if I remember right, so I did like you--snugged it down lightly by hand and that was it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I agree, I would get that front plug out and bring it down to the level it should be. I bet you will encounter leaks from the seals, your axle tubes are probably full of lube. If you look at the way the cover and ring gear interact there is gear oil flow to all the bearings including the axle bearings, that is what that funny bend is for in the cover. It is even in your aftermarket cast cover. I think you should be ok on the preload on the caps. I also used the ARP studs on the caps and a strange cover it is probably the same as moroso and the TA cover. I can see how the caps could become deformed they are not very substantial that is the reason for the cover. When all the parts get hot and expand the preload pressure will increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chevyss Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Agree with Mike. To much fluid will cause the seals to blow out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Agree with Mike. To much fluid will cause the seals to blow out. just put in a Dana 60..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy's Auto Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted By: Chevyss Agree with Mike. To much fluid will cause the seals to blow out. just put in a Dana 60..... So Danas do not have seals? Walrusus maybe? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted By: Reds72WMonte Originally Posted By: Chevyss Agree with Mike. To much fluid will cause the seals to blow out. just put in a Dana 60..... So Danas do not have seals? Walrusus maybe? Andy Andy, where's your sense of humor???? ..you know that's the answer to everything!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Just put in a quick change rear, we used to to run them in the dirt cars if they did not leak lube it was because it all leaked out already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Just put in a quick change rear, we used to to run them in the dirt cars if they did not leak lube it was because it all leaked out already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffaloBillPatri Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 I can understand more air bubbles with more of the ring gear submerged. Ebay seller stays that the TCI cover increases the capacity by 1 cup, so 2.75 qts. would be about right. I also read that I could use a narrow dremel wheel & cut a slot in plug, heat with a torch, & probably get it out with a square shank screwdriver. If that don't work, I will drain & put 2.75 qts. back in. BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Hey Bill, what does your plug look like? I believe there are two styles, one with an external square "nipple" to turn, and one with an internal square hole that you can use a 3/8 ratchet or extension to remove. Did yours have the external type but have the part to get a wrench on broken off? Also, my Moser cover didn't mention any extra capacity, that is pretty cool that yours has a little extra! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffaloBillPatri Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hey Scott, It's the external square "nipple" type BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have encountered a stubborn plug like that. I used a 12 point socket and impact gun to get it off. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hey Bill, I think Allan is showing you a square socket which would be right, you need a 4/8 pt socket specifically for these types of plugs. I have a couple that I got from sears, but I'm not sure what size you actually need. I would also advise draining the fluid, and then putting some heat on the plug and get it nice and hot. Let it cool down and then try to loosen it. If it is really stuck, the heat will help break whatever bond (rust, locktite, etc) has formed on the threads and it will be much more likely to come out. This will also help ensure that the nipple part doesn't simply shear off which it could do if it is reallllllyyy stuck. Get the 4 or 8 pt. socket and work it slow and easy! Let us know how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffaloBillPatri Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Yesterday I drained the THICK gear lube, took 12 hrs @ 32* I got the front plug out, that socket worked with some heat. THANKS GUYS Today I added lube. Secured funnel in passenger door handle & 3/8" rubber hose down & into rear cover fill hole. SLOW GOING, In about 4 hrs, I got in about 2 qts. Tomorrow I think I will heat up the lube & rubber hose. BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 that's some pretty thick lube alright. Maybe keep it in the house and take it out when your ready?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Today I added lube. Secured funnel in passenger door handle & 3/8" rubber hose down & into rear cover fill hole. SLOW GOING, In about 4 hrs, I got in about 2 qts. Tomorrow I think I will heat up the lube & rubber hose. I use a hand held metal pump that holds like 10 oz.(could not find a picture on-line, too early no time), pour fluid in, screw lid on, squeeze trigger, and it pumps fluid in though long thin tube that's roughly 4" long (some are flexible and adjustable), but it will fill a rearend in minutes after refilling the pump several times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 A metal pump sounds nice. I envision something like a grease gun for oil? I have one of those cheapo plastic pumps that screw into the top of a gallon jug. They work real nice when it's warm out, but when it's cold it tends to crush the gallon jug instead of pumping fluid. I can tell you from experience that gear oil will not get warm in a microwave. Looking back, I guess that's a good thing because I don't want that smell forever permeating my hot pockets. Oil is poor at transfering heat, so it takes a long time to warm it from an outside source. The stuff against the sides of the container will get warm, but in the center it's as cold as ever. Maybe you could hurry the process by letting your oil container rest in a pan of hot water, but it wouldn't surprise me if the water gets cold before the oil warms up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I didn't think it would be so hard to find a picture but I finally got something very close to what I'm talking about. I think I got mine from Autozone, I have like three of them one dedicted to rearend fluid, one dedicated for my overdrive unit, and one for general purpose duty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I use one of these, Suction Gun can't bet it for drawing fluid and putting it back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Hey Mike, that thing looks pretty cool, how much does it hold and can you store it in someway without the fluid coming back out on it's own? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Bill they hold about the same as a tube of grease, I guess you could store fluid in it never thought about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.