vince Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Do I have to lift my engine in order to change the oil pan? If so how high? and and is there anything else I need to consider? I am guessing I have to remove the motor mount bolts? It's a stock 350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I thought I read somewhere you can get it out if the counterweights are up on the crank. Might have to turn it over by hand to get it to line up. I could be wrong though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I think Mike is right, if the counter weights are in the right position the pan will come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I think the oil pump becomes an issue. You may have to hand wrench the bolts out and let it drop in the pan. I would take out the motor mount bolts, jack it up and wedge a piece of 2x4 between the mount and bracket on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 it can be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Will do any damage if raise the motor form the main pulley. What i mean is place a 2x4 on the bottom of pulley and the jack below the 2x4. Also is it possible to lift it too high that it will fall out of alignment with motor mounts? The pan i have now is ugly and leaks around the drain plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThirdMC Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Shouldn't do any damage jacking it up that way. With a large enough piece of wood the weight can rest on the pulley and harmonic balancer. If the tranny is still bolted to the engine it shouldn't get out of alignment enough to worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 cool thanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 I am getting ready to tackle this project, But I have a few questions 1. What gasket is best to use the one piece or the four piece. 2. Is there a sequence to torquing the bolts and what is the foot pounds? 3. How can I tell if the counter weights are up on the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 The counterweights would be up at the front of the crank when the number one cylinder is at bottom dead center. I like the one piece gaskets I usually get all the bolts started then go around two or three times. The one piece gasket has torque limiters, sometimes the original bolts are too short Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 The FelPro one piece gaskets are the best. I use NO sealant, as per instructions. I also start all 4 corners equally with longer bolts. Then as Mike stated, draw the pan tight in a good back and forth sequence in order to keep the pan fitment proper. The one piece gaskets are thicker at the valleys and can appear at first to be the incorrect gasket. Thus drawing the pan to the block is the best way to istall these. And again, like Mike stated, the torque limiters are a very nice aspect. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Cool Thanks for the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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