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Hoping they will fit 18" and 20" american racing M


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I will be trying to go with one of the following setups in Black;

FRONT

18x8 +0 (will fit)

18x9 +24 +34 (should fit)

 

REAR

20x8.5 +18 +20 + 32 (+18 & 20 should fit,+32 might be to much)

20x10 +18 +34 (I'm guessing +34)

 

I want to run 18x9 on the front if the offset will work and on the back 20x10 if they will tuck in.

 

http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/?siteid=1&groupid=29

 

Any experiance with staggared wheels in Montes?

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Those wheels should look goood. I think a 10 inch should work in the rear with the right backspacing (5"). You will very likely need to trim the lip on the quarter panel to make them fit.

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fronts 8" wide should take 4-4.75 inch back space to fit proper is my guess.

 

rears 8.5 inch wide should take 4.5-5 inch back space to work proper.

 

rears 10 inch wide should take 5.5-6.5 inch back space to work proper I would think.. an inch is a lot of play though, so i would like to know exactly what my max is before I order..

(I know some guys would pay big bucks for that extra inch lol)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have 9.5 inch wide rear rims (I've done them in 17's and 18's) the back spacing needs to be 5.5 inches. Any deeper and they will rub on the inside. The outside lip still needed to be grinded down just a little to make good clearance for the tires. On the 17's I'm running a 295/45 Mickey Thompson Drag radial (see signature pic)and on the 18's if I remember correctly...245/40??? They were 27.1 inches tall, as are the 295/45's...See my web site for the custom blue Monte with the 18's.

 

 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

5.5 inch backspace is 0 offset on a 10 inch rim according to the chart.

trimming wheel lips doesn't bother me at all, I just need to firm up the rear suspension so everything stays put.

I'm planning a rear disc conversion.....and kinda hoping it doesn't effect the mounting width.

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Getting a 10" wide wheel to fit in the back isn't hard. I highly recommend measuring your car on both sides to ensure proper fitment. Otherwise, you'll end up getting a wheel re-hooped like me (I didn't measure the first time; I followed someone else's recommendation).

 

Getting the measurements you need is pretty straightforward. I used a makeshift plumb bob to create a reference line for the wheel opening lip and used a straight edge to measure the distance to the wheel mounting flange. I repeated this process at 4 points across the wheel opening. It's extremely important that you install the brake rotor or drum during this process because these eat up space.

 

IMG_0338.JPG

 

My rules of thumb for clearance are 3/8" to the outer lip and 5/8" to the frame rail. These are pretty tight dimensions, but I have a stiff suspension and tires with relatively short, stiff sidewalls. Now, let's say your shortest measurement from the wheel mounting surface to the lip plane is 4-5/8". Subtract off 3/8" for clearance and you're at 4-1/4". The required backspace on a 10" rim then becomes 10" - 4-1/4" = 5-3/4", which is the typical starting point for our cars. You'll then want to verify that you have at least 6-3/8" to the frame rail.

 

Again, tire selection is important. The true section width for a given tire size will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I run 285/40/18 Nitto 555s, and the sidewall is damn near perfectly straight on a 10" rim. Most manufacturers will provide as-installed section widths for a particular tire on a range of wheel widths. I hope that helps.

 

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes no doubt lets keep informed! I know my rear end is close, the 275's on there now are within 1/4 of each other in spacing on the car right now so I'm not woried about needing different(port and starboard) rear wheels.

18" fronts

20" backs what I'd like.

I'll keep you posted on what I bring in

 

www.redrockkustoms.com

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