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How is this set-up for a round town cruiser?


1970MonteMotion

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Hello. I have factory 300HP 350/ and factory 350 tranny. I am going to add headers, and it currently has 650 holley double pumper carb. For now, I only plan to add headers, stall, shift kit, cam and lifters, and intake. The car idles now just above 1,000 rpm. No more than 1,200 rpm. My aluminum intake will be functional somewhere around 1200-5500 rpm. The cam will most likely be a .489/.504 lift. Duration 268/276 with a rpm range of 1800-6500. Lunati Voodoo. My question is, would a 3,000 stall be too much? Would a 26 or 2800-3000 stall work better with this set up? I plan to change my rear end gears to 3.73. Does this set-up sound logical, or ?

 

Also, my intake will be aluminum, possibly dual plane, definately hi rise.

 

Let me know if another setup may do me more justice. I don't race, but wouldn't mind a daily driver that is worthy of making occasional track passes...

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If your not planning on competitive racing, a dual plane will be be way to go. It will give you more low end torque than a single plane. Single plane is good for top end and if your not planning on spending a lot of time in the upper revs dual is the right choice.

 

That's all I can suggest. Others will be along shortly to give you tips on the other stuff.

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If your not planning on competitive racing, a dual plane will be be way to go. It will give you more low end torque than a single plane. Single plane is good for top end and if your not planning on spending a lot of time in the upper revs dual is the right choice.

 

That's all I can suggest. Others will be along shortly to give you tips on the other stuff.

Thanks amsterdam.
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Cam is not bad for the compression ratio and I would go with an Air Gap. 300 might give you the feel of the tranny slipping without the torque of a big block. With a small block, the 3:73s sound spot on with a 27-28 inch tall tire. You going to go plate or fogger on the nitrous?

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Cam is not bad for the compression ratio and I would go with an Air Gap. 300 might give you the feel of the tranny slipping without the torque of a big block. With a small block, the 3:73s sound spot on with a 27-28 inch tall tire. You going to go plate or fogger on the nitrous?
Lol, won't be adding nitrous. Will reconsider the stall size. Any suggestions?
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I think a 22 to 2400 stall with your 3.73s and the stuff suggested will be fine. Like Andy said the 3000 will make the trans feel sloppy. and if you are mainly cruising you will like it better.

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With all of the intake work you are planning on doing, why not just go with a square bore and be done with it? I think you will find a much larger selection of intake manifolds and carburetors that way. You can always put a square peg in a round hole with the right adapter, but why would you want to?

 

Mike

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If your carb is a spread bore, chances are that the intake is a spread bore, but it may have an adapter. I do not see any info about your intake. what brand and model is it?

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I use to have a very simular set-up in my Monte. I had a Crower solid lifter .496/.502, 236/240@.050 cam in a 350, with a single plane Team G Street Ram, Holley 750, headers, race prep'd 350 tranny and 3500 stall with a 3.73 posi 12 bolt.

 

1. It was being built mainly for drag racing

2. Was NOT street friendly for a daily driver

3. Converter was way too loose for the street, (wouldn't hardly move if lightly accelerating until about 2400 rpm

4. I think I was under carb'd when I got to aroung 5500+ rpm

5. got about 5-7 mpg

6. Had to add a vacuum can to ensure I had brakes...

 

All that being said the motor made great power to about 6000 then started to kind of lay over like it was straving for fuel. I loved it,overall, but had I of went with a good dual plane monifold (maybe a rpm air gap, etc) and around a 2400-2600 stall I think I would have been much happier with it on the street.

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If your carb is a spread bore, chances are that the intake is a spread bore, but it may have an adapter. I do not see any info about your intake. what brand and model is it?
My current carb is a spread bore. Holley 4 barrel, double pumper, high performance GM upgrade from Qjet. The intake is also a holley, but I don't believe it's hi-rise, although it's aluminum. Not sure if single or dual plane. intake12.jpg Pic sort of sucks,but all I have. I ran the numbers on the carb, and to keep from replacing it, wanted to go with a matching intake, unless adapters aren't that bad overall. I was told my intake looks like an old street dominator before, but who knows?
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Pull the carb and see if it is a spread bore intake. Carb sits pretty close to the intake to have an adapter. If you like the way the carb works use it. Since your carb has a divorced choke any intake changes will have to include a choke 'stove' on the intake to actuate the choke coil.

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You are very good help Mike. Thank you. I don't want my wheels coming off of the ground like yours, but I would enjoy a nice set up. The wife has limited my spending on it, but I would like to juice up the engine. Do they make certain bottom end and top end hi performance kits? I like to get another 100hp out of the 350 which is already 300hp. I didn't want to bore and stroke though. I don't have the specs on my intake, so thats why I was considering chainging it. Would it be ok? Or should I upgrade for maximum results?

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If your thinking about a bottom end kit I would suggest a stroker setup. Not much more money and it will make a bunch more torque and this is good for getting our heavy cars moving. Check out dealers who carry Scat. They have decent components at fair prices.

 

My last engine was a 385 with old Pro Topline iron heads (Now RHS), a mild hyd flat tappet cam and it ran 12.3's in good air and 12.5's in the heat with 3.73 gears. Ran on pump prem.

 

David

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That is flying for a streetable SBC.If I was doing one I would be PMing you for details.Add a 150 shot of NOS and you would have one bad boy ride.Especially for a big MC with a SBC.Leave the car dirty,add some goofy looking wheels and some bad header leaks.Do your best Cable Guy imitation and guys would be lining up to run you.

 

If your thinking about a bottom end kit I would suggest a stroker setup. Not much more money and it will make a bunch more torque and this is good for getting our heavy cars moving. Check out dealers who carry Scat. They have decent components at fair prices.

 

My last engine was a 385 with old Pro Topline iron heads (Now RHS), a mild hyd flat tappet cam and it ran 12.3's in good air and 12.5's in the heat with 3.73 gears. Ran on pump prem.

 

David

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For a street cruiser nothing beats torque stroking to 383 will make the most torque. any bottom end 'kit' would be comparably priced between 350 and 383 because the 383 are so common now.

That being said, if your rear gear is a 2.73 a gear swap to 3.55 or 3.73 will give you immediate seat of the pants results.

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My car is in very good, working, mechanial condition. Everything works from A/C to wiper fluid. Be honest guys. Will building my factory engine up, decrease the value of the vehicle overall? In other words, should I pull my engine and tranny, and start with a crate motor, or can I mod my current one, and keep value?

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I don't think a crate motor would hurt the value. To me it might increase slightly because it would be a new engine with a warranty. Although there are many who want Matching numbers on everything. Building up the motor you have would should not affect the value IMHO.

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