Xxyyzz Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 PROGRESS!!!! I'm sure as soon as you see this pic you can tell the problem: So as you can see in the retracted position the starter gear is WAY closer to the flywheel then the stock starter. So I threw the stocker back on and she starts perfectly. My question now is I already rerouted the HEI lead to the IGN on the fuse box. Is that OK to leave? -Mark I guess that's what I get for trying to fix something that wasn't broken. Just trying to modernize the car and replace old parts. I wont make that mistake again.... (lets be honest i probably will) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Yay! Sounds like you're set to go. The wiring you did to the fusebox needs to stay for the HEI to function. There's no longer any need for the original wire between starter and distributor/coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 My starter came with shims to move the starter away from the ring gear. They went between the starter and the mounting block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Glad to hear your Monte is back on the road, Mark. It's frustrating to spend time, money and effort on an "improvement" project and then end up right back where you started - been there, done that. But, at least you have the experience and the lessons learned. I am getting paranoid about ordering aftermarket parts because it is sometimes very difficult to know if they are going to fit or work once you get them. There are often unstated exceptions to the "application" charts that can only be discovered by a bad experience. Sounds like we are both left with "modern" starters that we can't use on our current Montes. Oh, well, live and learn. Maybe there's a "new build" somewhere in the new future that can use some of our left over parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Yay! Sounds like you're set to go. The wiring you did to the fusebox needs to stay for the HEI to function. There's no longer any need for the original wire between starter and distributor/coil. Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I didn't have to reroute it BACK to the starter since im using the old style with 3 connection points. Originally Posted By: Mike 57 My starter came with shims to move the starter away from the ring gear. They went between the starter and the mounting block. Mine did as well. But no amount of shims would have helped. If I put enough shims to make it not squeal while driving the starter would be too far to engage. Look at the pics, its a BIG difference. And yes, Dennis, you are exactly right! -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 What I was suggesting was that there is a shim that goes between the starter motor and the mounting block that attaches to the engine block. That shim will move the starter forward and the pinion toward the front of the car not down. Here are some instructions for the same starter from Jegs it shows how to check starter pinion clearance and pinion engagement it may be of some help. link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 how would it shim it forward? it would need new mounting points, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 The shim goes between the nose housing and the main part of the starter. This moves the gear farther away from the flywheel. As much as yours needed moved back/forward/away from the flywheel it may be a moot point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 so the gear is attached to the nose housing and shimming the housing will move it away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 The gear is not attached to the nose housing but to a shaft in the nose housing and when the shim is put in between the nose housing and the main part is when the gear is moved away for the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Something looks screwy with that starter. From the picture you gave, it looks like the gear needs to be nearly flush with the rear face of the mounting block when it's at rest in the withdrawn position...right now it looks like it's sticking out nearly 1/4 inch too far. As it sits, to make it correct you would need something like a 1/4" shim between the motor assembly and the mounting block, but that sounds excessive to me. You might even need to find longer bolts to hold it all together once the shim is in place. In reality you don't need to shim the starter so it withdraws as far back as the original starter, you only need to shim it enough that it pulls away from the flywheel. The original starter may pull away 1/2" from the flywheel when 1/8" would be enough. It just seems that this starter should have this problem figured out before you even try to mount it. I mean it should be able to function as it is without all the adjustments and shims. I'm wondering if there is something hanging inside the solenoid assembly that's preventing the gear from pulling back as far as it should; maybe the return spring isn't doing its job? You can't really use this thing as it is, so there's no harm in removing the solenoid assembly to see if there's something obviously wrong in there. Just be glad your stock starter is doing the job for you now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy's Auto Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Next time just order a starter for a 96 3/4 ton (2500) Chevy truck with a 350 and color it a day. Fits the 168 tooth flexplate like a glove, and is a 4 hp 4:1 gear reduction. I buy them in lots off eBay fpr my Chebbys and it takes the Fun out of Disfunctional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Andy this is what I find at Napa is this the one your talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr70Monte Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I've used this starter for several years, its an exact fit, right down to having the R & S terminals on the solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130644176434 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.