FullMonte Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Hello! Back again after a prolonged absence. Diagnosed with the "Big C" recently and oncologist suggested something other than chemo to focus on, so I am dusting off my 71 - good therapy! It has been sitting for nearly 2 years, and when I took it in for an inspection on Thursday, it was clear that the front brake pads and rotors need to be replaced (all original stuff - 70K original miles). While I have never done brakes before, figured it is a good time to learn and have heard that it is not that complex. True? Any directions you can point me, suggestions on parts or step-by-step instructions would be greatly appreciated. Members have helped me in the past, and I am sure all of your experience will help me know. Thanks! George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullMonte Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Bringing this up again. Talked to a local tire dealer and he suggested Checker as the place to buy brake pads and rotors. $15 for the pads; $60 each for the rotors (with hubs). He said if I have the money he would recommend all Wagner parts, but they are about twice the cost. What have you used/suggest? I want to do this right and want to get it back on the road. Should I replace calipers as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I prefer Napa brand parts. If the brakes have never been done I would go ahead and grab calipers and then you don't have to worry about the front brakes for a long time. I would also check the rubber brake lines and the wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Welcome back after your bout with th big c hope all is well now. Its really not that bad of a job but could be kinda time consuming to explain step by step. I would suggest getting a repair manual for the car there out there and not that expensive I got one from amazon. As far as the parts try and avoid anything made in china. As Ian stated napa parts are pretty good. If you get jammed up on anything drop me a pm ill be happy to help. Remember safety first use jack stands and work safely, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullMonte Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thanks to you rotors (with hubs) are $66 each? Does that should about right? Also, is it standard practice to replace the wheel bearings? Thanks for the best wishes. In the middle of 6 months of chemo. Think of the worst case of the flu you ever had. No fun at all, but the car is really helping out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullMonte Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Sorry....last message should read. "Thanks to you FGMCC members. Checked with NAPA and rotors (with hubs) are $66 each? Does that should about right? Also, is it standard practice to replace the wheel bearings?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I hope your bout with the Big C is a mild one. We can spend your money on that Monte. I am not sure that a 15 dollar pad is the way to go. I would check on options and look to a middle of the road pad. It sounds like you are taking your time on this. I would pull it apart check the wheel bearings, calipers. and brake hoses, along with the brake job. Try to find a quality set of rotors, depending on the abuse you may be able to have your original rotors turned. They are probably better quality than most of the ones available. Some of the made in china ones warp quickly. If you have questions post them up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRDIRT11 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 I use wagner thermoquiet pads on everything. My buddy is the shop manager and i asked his opinion because my son was turnig 16 and the 00 monte we give him was always going thru rotors. I was buying cheapest rotors i could get. He said get better rotors and run wagner thermoquiet brakes. My sons getting ready to graduate highschool with no brake troubles so far. Im sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRDIRT11 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 My buddy is the shop manager at a midas. sorry about that. I was in a hurry. Got to get back to work on my monte. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullMonte Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Thanks to all who have provided help. Ian, you were right. After removing the calipers I noticed that the rubber on the brake lines are cracked in quite a few places and you can see the wire underneath. Any suggestions of where to get brake lines for these old cars? I was about to go visit the OPG website, but I recall hearing others say that they are not happy with that particular company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 autozone can get them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RARE MC Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 All you need to get the calipers off (once the tires are off) is a 3/8 "L" key (Allen wrench)and a short pipe for a cheater bar or preferably a breaker bar and 3/8 hex drive socket. Best solution with the calipers is send your originals to Stainless Steel Brakes and have them rebuild them. Do not let the calipers hang by the hoses. If you are going to replace the hoses, take them off now or put a small piece of vinyl tubing on the bleeder valve and route that into a can. Take off the outer pad only and retract the piston with a 6" C-clamp. Check the condition and color of the brake fluid. It is likely rusty and not something you want to send back up to the reservoir. Bearings should be OK, but check for noise in the bearings by rotating the rotors after you get the calipers off. You should be able to hear or feel if the bearings are corroded. Remove the middle cap with a screwdriver. Straighten cotter pin with needle nose pliers or vise grips. Remove cotter pin. Remove nut. Wipe out grease with paper towells. Measure thickness of rotors with micrometer, caliper or take to your NAPA shop for measurement and bearing inspection. They can install new bearings and turn the rotors if they are not to thin. With 70K miles, they should have plenty of material on them. You will need new rotor seals also. You'll see these on the back side of the rotors. I've been getting most of my genuine parts on eBay. NAPA or Chevrolet Parts is good too. The best part of doing this work yourself is you can clean all sorts of things in there while you are at it. Speaking of all sorts of things, check the rubber bushings on the A-arms. If they are bad, they will look off center or show signs of metal to metal contact. Also check for play in the middle steering link call the "drag link." Have someone hold the other axle or rotor and see if there is left to right play in the steering. Grease the upper ball joint while it is accessible too. Have fun and I hope you stay cancer free for many years to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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