Waterboi Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 350 Engine (40 over) Edelbrock Airgap intake Edelbrock 600 Carb (Manual choke) Camel Hump Heads Aluminum 1.5 Roller Rockers Lunati springs and lifters Lunati Bracket Master 2 Cam Pertronics Distributer Accell Shorty Plugs (.035) It runs good at a cold start while idleing ...No raw gas smell or nothing... but when I take it up the road and get it warmed up good to a normal operating temperature (190 Degrees) I get a sluggish idle and a strong gas smell from the exhaust like it wants to flood... And sometimes it's hard to start.. And when it does I get Black smoke.... I've taken the carb off several times and checked the needle seats float levels to specs and gave it a good cleaning...it will do good for a minute but then back to the same thing like I mentioned before ...If this helps... It happens only when the engine warms up to normal temp ...And sometimes I can hear gas dripping into the carb when i shut it off. Im dont know much about tuning carbs and etc. But any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Have you checked your fuel pressure? Aside from the factory settings on a eddy being rich to begin with, they don't like pressure settings above 4-5lbs. Another factor to check is manifold vacuum at idle. I'm no expert, though it's a known fact that a radical cam, may just need a larger carb to begin with? A source here with tons of info would be Davey,(CrazyDavey) he excels from the old school, (Donald Duck's School of engineering) he may have your answer. I'm sure he'll chime in.. soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waterboi Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 Hey... thanks for the quick response Mo!! But yea... I read about that on the edelbrock website.... Im sorry!! I totally forgot to mention earlier to you all that I just added a feul pressure guage and regulator last week... and its still doing the same thing.. I dialed it down to around 4psi.. Seemed to be a tad better but basically still doing the same thing.. Where is the correct place to check my pressure on the feul line?? Before or after the feul filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badddoin Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Had the same problem w/ mine. Was actually boiling the gas in the bowls. (350 performer 650 Holly man. choke, mild cam.) I put a phenolic spacer 1/2 in. under the carb. seemed to help quite a bit. Phenolic Spacer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Fuel pressure gauge should be as close to the carb as possible. What is your timing set to? initial, and total. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 have you played with the idle mixture screws yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Did you start simple and make sure the choke is opening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Antoine, it's difficult to diagnose an engine in a forum. You have a great many minds here, you & only you can decide exactly what suggestions are valid. In order to get to the root of your problem, I believe you have to be consistent with the answers to the specific questions asked. Now let's take under consideration your eddy carb for instance, how old is it? This also applies to many carbs out there, in the way of float buoyancy? Simply dropping the float in gas will indicate if they float, but you also need to submerge it and look for bubbles. Also shaking it close to your ear to listen for gas sloshing in it. At one time floats were made out of sheet brass and water was a culprit in undermining their job, today's floats made of nitrophyl, or plastic, can eventually become porous and lose their buoyancy. Not that this is your case, though smaller things have been overlooked, the needle and seat also? Now the clean air act threw a great monkey wrench into our hobby, with all the gasoline additives thrown into the mixture one that has proven a major contributor to premature failure in many gas delivery systems is alcohol. So a close inspection is needed with any aftermarket parts coming out of the industry, specially in the hobby of natural aspirated motors. Actually it has played havoc on a great many other parts. So have you looked at your float closely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 are only having idles issues or rich while driving too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waterboi Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Thanks you all for the advise... I appreciate all the feedback.... And Yes Sam actually its both..... I am actually seeing some light black smoke from the exhaust when im out on the interstate.. I really dont know too much about the timing and all so I cant really offer much insight on that.. I know I've had it checked several times by my mechanic and he swears its right... Ive been thinking about a few things..... and Im gonna feel so stupid if this is my problem..... I do have an eddelebrock 600 cfm carb with the manual choke... But I never got around to installing the choke cable... so right now I have nothing hooked to the choke linkage at all.... on a cold day I would just pop the hood and push the choke linkage with my finger... Is it possible that after the engine warms up to normal operating temp and as im driving it... the suction from the carb could partially be closing the choke flapper causing it to run rich? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 That's a place to start for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 All good advice above, some questions that have not been asked is whether this issue occured after the engine was rebuilt or since some part of the engine was modified. Either way I would consider going to a place where they have a tuning dyno. Based on what is coming out of the tailpipe they will be able to analyze what is happening at different RPM, optimize the timing, etc... It costs about $70. In my case I discovered that the main jets in my carb which were fine for my previous set up, were way too big for my new set up and were causing symptoms similar to yours. After I changed the jets, MPG went up about 5 so it is a worthwhile investment after a rebuild. Also discovered I had a pinhole in my rusty fuel lines that was sucking in some air and messing up the mixture. Just some food for though. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.