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Cam Advice needed ...


Mike Brichta

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After noticing that my engine was not running like it should I decided to remove the valve covers to take a look and found one rocker arm was pretty loose. The rocker arm nut was not loose or backed out. I decided to remove the intake this morning to look at the lifters. As I suspected, a lifter was shot. Here are some pics of my lifters. See if you can spot the bad one.

 

http://s477.beta.photobucket.com/user/packard36/library/lifter%20problem

 

Here is some background info on the engine:

 

- 383 Stroker (less than 10k miles on the engine)

- Camshaft (FED CS-1062R)

- Lifters (FED HT-817)

- Pushrods (8.300) (CMP 797116)

- Magnum Rockers (CMP 141216)

 

I need some advice in the following (2) areas:

 

1) What would cause this problem?

- Poorly adjusted rocker arm?

- Bad lifter?

- Something else?

2) What would you do to fix the problem?

- Just replace the lifters?

- Replace the camshaft and Lifters?

 

I did inspect the rocker arms and pushrods and they all appear to be in great shape. Also, all of the lifters (except 1) seem to be in good shape and are nice and clean.

 

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks!!

Mike

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bad lifter...bad cam core....not enough additives in the oil...improper break-in....a lot of things can cause that Mike...I would consider going to a hyd roller this time, no special break-in or special additives needed.... wink

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bad lifter...bad cam core....not enough additives in the oil...improper break-in....a lot of things can cause that Mike...I would consider going to a hyd roller this time, no special break-in or special additives needed.... wink

 

ditto

 

with today metals and oil I will never! use a flat tappet cam again, even on the stock 350 for my 4 speed car I stepped up to a hydraulic roller! yes it's a pricey upgrade but not if you have to tear your engine down because a flat tappet cam/lifter fails...it will pay for itself!!!

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If I have to replace the camshaft and lifters then I may as well remove the engine from the car and convert to a hydraulic camshaft and lifters. So far the list to replace is:

 

- Camshaft

- Lifters

- Pushrods

 

How about the rocker arms? Anything else? Does someone sell a kit with all of this in it?

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Better figure new valve springs also. It's a good idea to go with the cam makers' recommendation on springs. The roller cam takes a very different spring.

And a timing chain & gear set...

If you decide to go with a roller cam, you may need to upgrade to compatible distributor gear and fuel pump pushrod.

 

Right now you know you need at least a new cam and lifters, a timing chain set, plus gaskets & seals. The cheapest route is to replace with the exact cam number you have in there now, add in the lifters, hope that the valve springs were matched to begin with, and you're good to go.

Swaping to a roller cam is pricey, and requires more parts...but I agree with the others here that its a better setup.

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I had the same thing happen to my 302 in my Maverick.The lifter stuck in the lifter bore.I had to order a new cam and lifter kit.A very expensive oops!Make sure to get another bottle of assembly lube.I used a whole bottle on my lifters alone.Almost 10,000 miles now and no grief! Just my 2 cents,as I had the same thing happen.

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For what it's worth, because of the amount of metal that's missing from that lifter face, I'd be inspecting the oil for debris. The cam lobe must be missing about the same amount of metal. Even if the oil looked pretty good, I'd not be comfortable with just replacing the cam and lifters. Metal floating around in there will ruin your new parts as well as all the others. I'd pull the motor and clean it inside completely before putting any new parts in it. You don't know how much damage has already taken place, unless you look. Check the crankshaft; the main, rod, and cam bearings; and replace the oil pump(cheap insurance). Install a hyd roller cam retro kit along with the necessary push rods, fuel pump rod and distributor gear. This isn't a cheap way out, but I think it's the best way. If you don't clean it inside, you run the risk of having to do it again. Once it's clean, you'll have the peace of mind knowing the motor is ready to run many more trouble free miles, but if you don't clean it, you will always be worrying about how many miles it has left in it. That 383 will love the advantages of the roller cam and so will you, unless you like less power. wink

 

I'm not only good at spending my money, I do a great job of doing the same for others. smile

 

The good news is you can buy hyd roller cam conversion kits much cheaper than buying the individual parts seperately.

 

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