MonteAZBB70

I went the "cheap" route when I did mine and bought SUM-380457. Dropped in like it was made for it, was less expensive than other aluminum radiators (although admittedly not as fancy as some) but most importantly cooled a mildly built BBC with A/C in the Phoenix summer heat!

A trick I learned from my dad a long time ago (and nothing I've ever seen in any book!) is to use a tap. Find one that's about the same size as the center hole and just start threading it in. It's bronze so it's frairly soft. Once the tap hits the end of the crank, the bushing will just start walking backwards out of the hole so you don't have a greasy mess to deal with. Mike

I used to know a guy that had a late '40's chopped Merc cruiser with a built big block Chevy in it. Not sure of all the circumstances, but he romped on it and the driveshaft came up through the floor doing a ton of damage and broke his daughter's feet in the process! Definitely not worth going without one in my opinion. Mike

You had to do what to your hookers?! Sorry, just had to say it. It looks pretty funny taken out of context. Mike

I wish they made the Elite series in a longtube for a BB Monte. I've never had good luck with headers and the idea of a 3/8" thick flange is very appealing to me. I know Doug Thorley does, but I don't know of anyone here who's used them and I just can't see shelling out that kind of money right now to find out how well they fit. I'll just stick with manifolds for now I guess. Thanks. Mike

Which Hedmans? Do you have a big block? Mike

You might want to consider a different cam, too. According to this the 110 degree LSA of the XE268 wouldn't be optimal. There's some pretty good info here. Mike

Welcome, Phil. I'm sure I speak for others when I say it's nice to have another subject matter expert onboard. Get prepared to be bombarded with PM's! Mike

I do have the 2-1/2" Magnaflow system. I used that and Pypes downtubes right off the stock manifolds on my 402. My problem arose in placement of the X-pipe. Where it "wanted" to go created an interference problem with the tranny crossmember. In retrospect, the right thing to do would have been to stop right there and order a double-hump replacement crossmember. Not no, not me! I forged ahead and created more work and expense for myself! I shoved the X-pipe as far rearward as I could to create the most clearance I could get. Then when it came time to hang the tailpipes, there was just no way I could make them work...but I had already cut and installed the X-pipe and downtubes, so I was stuck. I took it to a very good shop out here called Pro Dyno. The guy that owned the shop and did the work on my car was Charles Hendrickson from Pinks. They are the only shop around here that does mandrel bent stainless work. He reworked the tailpipes and put on some slash-cut tips at my request. I had heard that there was too much resonance using the turn-down tips that come with the kit. Anyway, I'm very happy with the finsished product and the unique sound. Mike

Your Magnaflow kit fit perfectly? I had issues with mine. I'm very happy with the end result, but it was quite a fight and I had to have the tailpipes reworked. But I'm guessing that has to do with using manifolds and everything being basically stock. I'm curious to know what your combination is that allowed the kit to work so well. Mike

I hope I'm not opening a can of worms here, but what make Torque Tech so much better than everyone else? I can see muffler design making a huge difference, but what makes one manufacturer's mandrel bent pipes better than another's? Just curious... Mike

I don't know of anyone who's had a problem with one of these. Mike

Are you looking to actually use the plate as a replacement for your existing plate? You'll probably want to check your state laws, but Ebay seems to be a good source. Mike

One end is attached to the tranny and the other to the shifter, right? I'm guessing the shifter is bolted directly and firmly to the floor. It seems you have unlike charges between the body and the drive train. Do you still have ground straps between the engine and the firewall? If not, you might want to put them back on. Also, make sure the shifter has metal-to-metal contact with the floor. In other words, you might need to make sure you don't have a bunch of undercoating or paint under the tranny tunnel where the bolts go through. Or, at the very least maybe try running a ground wire between the shifter and a seat bolt or something. As you found out, you definitely don't want the shifter cable providing your ground for you! Mike

I used the Prothane motor mount/tranny mount combo (part no. 7-1902-BL) when I put my 402/TH400 back in. I've never had ANY motor mounts before these that fit so well. I installed the engine and trans together and when the motor sat down on them mounts I could literally slide the bolts in and out by hand. No finagling required! My understanding is that Energy Suspension's quality is just as good but maybe someone with experience with their product will chime in. Based on my experience though, I'm wondering about the condition of your motor mounts. Are they the right ones? Are they in good shape? Is your tranny crossmember correct? Is it the original motor and tranny? Mike