Grease

When removing the ring gear carrier be certain to keep the bearing caps and shim/spacers to there correct sides . Mark both carrier bearing caps , so they are reinstalled back to the same side and same side up . I use a center punch . One dot top side left , two dots top side right . For the pinion shaft you really should have a new lock nut and new crush sleeve to set the bearing preload . It can be done with the old parts but not recommended . Hopefully you will get some more input on this from others here as well .

Sending up prayers for healing of Ronnie and strength for his family in this difficult time . May the Lord bless them all .

Yes you can bolt a 454 onto the turbo 350 . no change of bell housing needed or possible . hook up the vacuum line and detent cable your ready to drive . The turbo 350 is a fairly stout trans unless you plan to beat on it with the big block.

Thats a lot of nice work . The car looks great .

Robert , not sure of pricing for a core . Is it an A/C car ? Thats a little more wrk I think . The heater core as best I remember comes out from the inside A/C or not .

" Tranny is a 3 speed no overdive, with a shift kit i was told " Doesnt look like its a 700R4 guys . I stick with the modulator/vacuum problem .

The shift kit in will cause hard shifts . Also you might check to make sure the vacuum line is connected to the modulator . The modulator can go bad also . Bad or no vacuum can cause late shifts if the ole memory banks are working correctly .

Thanks for the thoughts guys . Winston ,I did build a fixture to hold the heads and have completed the drilling now . So i have plenty to keep busy with now . Hoping to have it running in time for the NMCOA meet in Old Town FL (Nov 6) Now back to your regular programming .

You can convert your original carrier to Posi by adding a PowerTrax unit . This replaces the spider gears . Here is a link to some info at summit , though its available at other sources. I do not have one and can not give a recommendation of it . http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand...s/?autoview=SKU

Unless you have a use for it , its a day wasted in the junk yard and something sitting in the corner collecting dust and leaking on the floor . If you have a S/B and change to the TH400 , you will want to change the axle ratio (lower) because the 400 1st gear is higher than the TH350 . Perhaps you have a lot Torque and can get over that issue . I tried it once , didnt like it . Just my thoughts , others may have differing opinions .

They were used in a lot of the full size GM cars and trucks . My 85 Caprice (gasoline) came that way from the factory and several of the one ton work trucks also gasoline 80s came that way . I never had any problems with them .

If the rear brakes are out of adjustment or not working , that will cause the fronts to wear quicker as they do all the work .

thank you for the information Winston . It will be cast iron heads . Looking at the head casting onfo I can find I'd gain the most compression by using a set of 305 heads though it would cut back the intake size just a bit . I think I would rather have the compression raised . PO has put dish tops in this 400 I was able to turn up a bad 400 head core to look at as well. again Thanks

I need to replace my heads . I want to know how to drill the steam ports . I am thinking about using a set of mid 90s heads from TBI engine for the smaller combustion chamber size . I have tired internet searching and didnt find much . One article said 1/8 holes ,one straight in and one at 45 degree angle . It did say which side was which . Another article said the angled hole was drilled at 30 degree angle . Can ya'll direct me to some good info ? thanks

Thats a nice looking award . Good job to all who participated .

I may be misunderstanding you . The TH400 has a higher first gear ratio than a TH350 . The 700R4 has the lowest first .

70 s/b turbo 350 with 12bolt . 55 1/2 inches center to center of joints . The slip yoke splined length is 4 3/16 . The overall length from center of joint to tip of slip yoke as best I can measure is 5 1/2 .The correct slip yoke also should have the balance ring .

In pictures 3 & 4 the points(tips) of your arrows are showing where the pump rides on the nose of the torque converter . The 2 notched ( cut out ) spots are what drives the front pump . The wear marks showing where your #3 & #4 are is where the bushing rides . If you look slightly to the right of #4 there is a black line ,that is where the seal rides .ITs probly 3/4" from this line to the weld . That last 3/4" is where you may find slight rusting/pitting , because it is outside the seal and exposed to moinsture . Be sure to clean all the way to the weld and put light coat of oil or grease when you install into the new seal . Aslo when you slip the comverter back into the new seal/pump make sure you rotate it and feel it engage the pump (2 notches). When its engaged correctly it should slide all the way in and have just about 1" of space ,when measured from a flex plate mounting surface ( the flat edge of the 3 mounting bolt towers)to a straight edge held across the bellhousing surface of the trans .Even the pilot stub should not touch the straight edge held across the bellhousing end . Also like the tail shaft end it may seem a bit sloppy in the bushing . That is corrected when you bolt the converter to the flex plate .

In the first 2 pictures where you are showing the bushing for the torque converter , DO NOT push it in . It is fine where its at . IF you push it in it could /will damage the pump . In the last picture where you show the tailshaft seal(extension housing seal) ,yes the tail shaft (axle ) will move about with the drive shaft out . Once the drive shaft yoke is installed it locates the shaft correctly ,as the Yoke rides on the tailshaft (extensionhousing bushing when you should see once you remove the seal . They ( tranny shop ) wouldnt/didnt sell you the seal retainer for the front ? You really should use one .

Stroker ,if I read my old reciepts correctly the GM part # for the front seal retainer is # 8654491 group # looks like 4.226 . I also use TRANSTAR parts and there part# is 61991 ,which you might be able to purchase at a local tranny shop if you dont have a GM dealer handy . As to drilling the front seal oil drainback it can ONLY be done with tranny OUT and the PUMP TAKEN APART . In that case it would be drilled .281-.313 (9/32 - 5/16 )

The 700 has a bad tendancy to pop the front seal out . So bad in fact the factory makes a seal retainer . The retainer was there fix for the problem . When a 700 family trans is out and apart its common to drill the oil drain hole to a larger size . Sorry I dont have my nots handy just now or I could tell you the drain hole size recommended and the retainer part # . i can try to look them up tomooorow .

Hmm its been yrs since I had the Halo top off my frist 70 . I dont recall any screws except the two corner pot metal parts.All the rest were welded on studs which held the plastic snaps/clips. But then it was a long time ago . The upper painted portion was roof color . Yea I buffed mine all shiney at the time .

If you do not use the column shifter any longer you should be cetain to put a neautral saftey switch in your new ratchet shifter . With out adding that feature the car would start in any gear because you are locking the original saftey feature in park ( start position ) permanently .

Yes there should be a market for your tilt column . biggest problem I see is shipping cost are getting crazy for odd/oversize items .

Hello and Welcome . Yes there is a conversion for the shift plate and detent plate . Look at trhis web site : www.midstateclassic.com . once there click catolouges then click chevelle then scroll down to transmission / console . It's called Conversion Kit for Overdrive . Glenn is a good person to deal with . I have bought several parts from him with no problems . You will have a problem with the "back drive linkage " to your steering column . If you find a cross shaft from an 80s GM G body with overdrive that cross shaft should solve the problem . Of course some folks just drop the cros shaft out . I think you will like the 700 swap . I still have the stock 2.73:1 axle and my RPM is about 1700 .Yes I need lower gears to get my RPM up around 2200 . But I am still happy with the tranny . I used a Painless Wiring kit for the lockup converter . I added a toggle in series so I can eliminate the lock up if I want to .