Its Just Me

Easiest solution, as Sam mentioned above, is a set of coil over shocks. I put a set of double adjustable Vikings on my big block Chevelle (550# rate I believe) and now the height, rebound and compression is all completely adjustable. If you want a low ride height, that doesn't bottom on dips, loosen the coils and tighten the compression. Want the front higher, tighten the coils. You can really dial in the stance and ride. They are mostly out of sight, so if you're concerned with original appearance, you need to crawl under the car to see them at all. I highly recommend the Vikings as they are high quality, reasonably priced & made in Dennis's (MCFan) home state of Minnesota And the best part is you only install them once. No in & out, cutting coils only to find you cut too much. Scott

Personally, I would remove the cable & cable brackets (if you don't like the look under the hood), but I would leave the choke assembly on the carb. The choke on the carb is completely out of site with the air cleaner on and if it is properly opened, it has no ill effect on the engine performance. Too many times people make decisions today that they regret tomorrow. When I see used carbs for sale without choke plates, I wonder what else did they butchered and I pass it right by. I never ran an edelbrock carb, so I have no answer for your original question. I'm sure someone will help out though. Scott

Interesting, I hadn't thought about just eliminating it. Maybe I'll try that and see how secure it feels..... Thanks again Scott

Yeah, that's the lower mount, I already have that w/my headers too. I'm referring to an upper mount that originally goes over the valve cover. I'm guessing I'll need to fab one up if I decide to go with taller valve covers for roller rockers. Thanks for the help. Scott

cbolt, I have headers, does yours mount to headers or the cast manifolds?

Are there different options for the A/C brackets on our small block Montes? The one in question is the bracket that attaches to the intake manifold and reaches over the valve cover and holds the back of the compressor. On my '72. I want to change to a tall valve cover and possibly a head with taller drip rails, but I only have maybe 1/4" clearance, bracket to valve cover. My big block a/c bracket attached to the front of the head and had no issues with the height of valve covers. Is there a similar OEM bracket for small blocks? Did GM make different a/c brackets that I could possibly swap out to do what I want? Maybe from a '70 or '71? Thanks Scott

Ian: Welcome to the boards. Vortecs are a great head, but be sure to check for proper clearance between the bottom of your valve spring retainer and valve guide at full lift with that cam. Stock configuration vortecs are not known for liking more than .460-.470 lift without bottoming out, but with beehives & screw in studs, someone has been modifying your heads, so you may be OK. Don't assume so, be sure to check. What is the compression ratio, rear gears, intake & carb, exhaust? Strip, street/strip, aggressive or "Grandpa Going to Church" driving style? All these variables will determine if that cam will be OK in your 350 and more importantly...if you will be happy with it. Scott

Murphy: Ditto what Sam says. Strongly recommended. To add...the 781's are a newer version of the 049's and virtually identical. The 781's & 049's have a rather large combustion chamber (part of what makes them breath so well). I think they claim anywhere from 118 cc to 125 cc depending on the source. My 781's averaged out at 124 cc. I run a domed piston (22 cc I believe) just to get 9.4:1 in my .030 over 454. 781 & 049's are plentiful & can still be had pretty reasonably but getting them cc'd is a must if you want to maximize your build. Lots of good aluminum heads out there too if you want to save some weight & take advantage of newer technology. AFR's are probably some of the best but come with the price tag. Brodix Race Rites are a good choice as they keep all the OEM configurations and accessory holes. But here's the best advice I can give you....Be careful not to get drawn into the "Bigger is Better" crowd. Know what you want to accomplish & put together a "combination" of parts that all work together, not just the biggest stuff listed in the catalog. Have fun & keep us posted...big block torque is addictive! Scott

I've been considering putting vortec heads on my 1972 small block. With the head change, I would be required to use a vortec specific intake manifold. Here is an excerpt from a description of a vortec style intake directly from Summit: "Accepts late model water neck, alternator, HEI, and air conditioning brackets". This makes me concerned that my 1972 OEM upper air conditioning bracket and alternator bracket may not fit on a vortec intake. Does anyone have first hand knowledge as to whether or not my original brackets will bolt up or do I need to assume some fabrications? Thanks Scott

That's wild, last week the factory tach in my chevelle did the exact same thing, only it went to 3500, froze, then went back to work under 3500. It did that about a dozen times. Then it went to 4500 & froze. It appears to be a permanent reading now as it's still at 4500 & it never moves. Time to go tach shopping. Bummer. Scott

I had 3.31's in my SS454 & loved them. Cruised all day effortlessly & smoked the tires on demand. As a matter of fact, I'm in the process of changing the 2.73's in my '72 small block to 3.31's for a little more pep. Scott

Brandon: http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/engine/a-guide-to-vortec-vs-oe-small-block-chevy-heads/ Here's a quote from the link above: "The L31 Vortec comes in two different casting numbers, 10239906 (#906) or 12558062 (#062). Originally, the stock #906 casting head was available in two versions. One version had an Inconel exhaust seat with single angle valve grind and was available on 1 ton trucks. The other version was the traditional three angle valve grind. Other than that, the #906 is the same as the #062 head." I think people get too hung up on the 906 vs 062 controversy. The only difference was that "some" 906's had a single angle valve grind while all the 062's had 3 angle. Anyone choosing to use a set of used GM vortec heads should remember that they are going on 20 years old. Most 20 year old heads probably have a pile of miles on them and need a valve job anyway. At this point, who cares what kind of grind GM did at the factory? You get to choose. I don't know of any performance machine shops that even do single angle grinds anymore. 3 angle is standard and a 5 angle is very common. In other words....don't sweat 906 vs 062, either is fine. Now for my opinion that you didn't ask for (but the price is the same): If you're going to run a set of used vortec's on a stock engine, you will never know the difference between a single or 3 angle grind in the way it runs or performs. If you're going to use them in a performance application, they'll be spending some time at a machine shop getting a new 3 or 5 angle valve job, pinning the studs or tapping them for screw in studs & push rod guides and getting some springs to accommodate more than .465" lift. And don't forget the standard cleaning, checking for cracks, checking the valve guides, truing the surfaces & new seals. By the time you do all that, you may as well consider these: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=2151&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false Scott

I agree with Rock on the ovals being the best looking. I went with Pypes brand, stainless steel through Summit. They are a bit more expensive than the link from Rock, but I can vouch for the quality and fit & finish of the Pypes being absolutely amazing. And they are stainless vs chrome. Mine are 3", part #EVT56. Scott

Darren, do I sense you contemplating a new/additional project? You seem to be the right guy for this kind of mission! Go get'm! Scott

Dave & Sam you both confirmed what I already knew, thanks! I think my biggest problem (if you can call it that) is that I'm a big block guy & I'm having difficulties adjusting! I haven't messed with small blocks for 30 years. Maybe I'll give into the force & put my 427 in... that should solve the torque issue! Scott

My rear main seal and front trans seals are both leaking, so my plan is to pull the engine this winter & replace the seals. While the engine is out I'm considering a cam change, but only if it will make enough difference in engine performance to justify the additional expense. Here's what I'm working with: '72 Monte Carlo Custom Air conditioned TH350 3.31 posi rear gear Coan 2400-2600 stall converter (not currently in the car, but will go in w/this project) 355 SBC Estimated 8.5:1 CR Flat top, 4 valve relief pistons (verified w/scope) I'm considering changing head gaskets to optimize quench and maximize CR OEM 487x iron heads (76 cc chambers) Comp roller tip rockers 1.52: ratio Weiand dual plane aluminum intake (similar to edelbrock performer) Original Q-jet carb (I may send it to Cliff Ruggles for rebuild/mods) 1-5/8 headers w/2-1/4" full length dual exhaust, glass pack style mufflers Points distributor converted to Crane electronic w/hotter coil Currently 12d initial, 34d total, all in at 2400, vac advance limited to 8d 87 octane w/up to 10% ethanol, no ping 100% street driver (no track time) but I like my stuff to run good. The current cam specs are: Comp Cams "High Energy" Hyd flat tappet 264 advertised duration 214/214 @ .050 .469/.469 lift w/1.5 rocker ratio 110d lobe separation This cam is currently in the engine, bought & paid for, it just doesn't seem to get after it. I don't know if it was ever degreed. I'm considering: Option #1: Clay Smith "Street Smith" Hyd flat tappet 264 advertised duration 214/214 @ .050 .450/.450 lift w/1.5 rocker ratio 108d lobe separation Option#2: Clay Smith "Torque Smith" Hyd flat tappet 274 advertised duration 224/224 @ .050 .450/.450 lift w/1.5 rocker ratio 108d lobe separation Will either option give me enough seat of the pants torque improvement to justify a cam change/expense? Which option for my combination? Or should I just keep what I already have? I know a HR and some smaller chamber heads to bump compression would be the best way to go, but that is a future project. I'm just looking to make what I currently have work together better for the next few years. Any thoughts? Thanks Scott

Rick: I believe it's about 3/4" - 1" drop, but I never really measured it. It's an Elelbrock Pro Flo air cleaner. I did run a Holley carb though. I think a Holley may be a bit shorter than an Edelbrock/Q-jet style carb. What carb are you running? That may make a difference. I don't have any experience with either Spectre or the K&N filter. I normally run a WIX. Good quality & fair price. Scott

RK: I ran an RPM A/G on my big block. I used a drop bottom air cleaner and a 4" tall air filter element with a raised chrome lid. It fit under my stock hood just fine. You should't have any issues BUT I wouldn't slam the hood until you verify! Lots of horror stories about that. You'll like the rpm intake. Scott

Sam: Are those the ones with the side bolsters? Do you have a part number for the foam? I want to put those in my 70 chevelle. I keep trying to search Legendary's website but it frustrates me terribly. Scott

Any updates Cory or are you too busy smiling to post? Scott

Any updates Sam? Do you remember how much you had to mill off those heads to get the chambers down to 106cc? Angle mill? My 781's average 124cc. Did the milling affect you intake fitment? If so, would you explain what you have to do to compensate? Thanks Scott

Ditto Sam & Mike...they know. Rods & rod bolts are the main concern. Not knowing what you have, leads me to think they are stock, or you would know because you would have a receipt (bragging rights) of some sort. If the assembly has not been balanced, and if you don't know about rods or rod bolts, I would not spin over 6000 max. Sure, it will hit 7000+, and it's really cool to do it, but to do that on a regular basis is asking for trouble without the right parts. Good luck. I'm afraid you have already crossed over to the dark side of 7000 as being OK (because it did it once). Lighten up the foot and let the big block do it's thing-torque. Scott

Normally a truck manual transmission (especially a 1-ton) is too different to even consider putting in a car, but you know what they say....You can do anything with enough money. I don't know if this equates to an '89 model, but I pulled an engine & manual trans from a 2wd '76 1-ton chevy. The trans had a granny low gear, which really equates to a 3-speed, because you'll not use 1st gear. The other biggie, was the shifter was top mounted, meaning it didn't have the normal shifter side mounts and external linkage rods, all the linkage was internal and it was a super heavy unit. The only thing that possibly could be used in a car is the flywheel, if it matches the balance of your engine, internal or external and the clutch mount holes match the clutch you want to use, 10 1/2", 11" or 12". If it's a 4wd that may open another can of worms with the transfer case. On the other hand...a 4wd monte would turn some heads if you want a serious project.... I would look elsewhere. Scott

Robert: OEM bucket seats & floor shift...Thanks for the tip on the TV bracket & the temp gauge. CBolt: Can you tell me the manufacturer of your converter controller? I like the idea of adjustable lock up points & a status light. Is there anything special about the speedo hookup (th350 to 200r). Will I need an adapter of some sort? I assume I'll need different speedo gears for the 3.73's to keep accuracy? Sam: Understood on the TV & linkage. I also read something about proper pressures, I better do more homework on that. I expect you'll be looking at a significantly modified 200 to put up w/your 454. Wish I could help w/the lotto. I'm hoping Cory (CKZ03) chimes in... Scott

Has anyone documented the procedure or needed parts etc for swapping a 200R4 auto overdrive in place of a TH350? I know it's a simple bolt in swap, but the devil is in the detail. I bought one from a friend out of his '85 Monte Carlo SS. Low miles and never apart. I know these are the more desirable units to run but I'm wondering what kind of minor upgrades I may need to do to assure reliability and longevity behind my (mostly) stock '72 350, estimated 330 hp max. Will the original parts hold up to normal driving (no racing but maybe a bit of aggressive street driving) or should I be looking into internal upgrades? Would I be $$ ahead to use this as a core & look into BowTie O/D or Extreme O/D units at more upfront money but potential future savings? I plan on running a 3.73 rear ratio and the stock lockup converter. This will give me a 2.50 final ratio. Do I need a special wiring harness or speedo drive unit or anything else to bring this all together? What about the TV cable & brackets (q-jet on edelbrock performer intake). Trans cooling lines...direct bolt up or mods required? This swap won't happen until next winter at the earliest, but I want my ducks in a row before then. Any advice, suggestions or handy hints are welcomed. Real life experience trumps theory. My head is spinning already. Thanks in advance. Scott