Mo's70MCs

The Best spot is exactly where that pink wire was at, cause it's 12v ign switch controlled. Now the carb 12v iddle stop solenoid is only on when you're using your A/C.

The one on the steering column? I believe the last two were a clutch safety switch if your car was a standard...I believe, at work now might be able to look at a schematic later when I get home.

It shouldn't​ matter, it's a make or break switch. Or a single pole single throw switch. Or on/off.

Looking good! Keep up the good work and keep it coming..we love pics.

Well you're definitely on the right path, from experience​ I have seen this one too many times.. first there are a great many that will try and do work on a carburetor while mounted on the manifold. Hopefully you're seasoned enough not to make that mistake, sencondly while you're trying to get the bugs out of it, a constant 12v to the coil isn't going to hurt anything as a temporary hook-up, as long as you unhook it and not use long term if that's what's been suggested by pertronix, a voltage drop or increase of 2.4 volts is hardly an issue short term. The ability to flip-flop the voltage is probably a great idea IMHO. Just to get to the root of the problem, on the ignition side. Now on the carburation side, that's a little trickier, why? Well truly an internal combustion engine can and will run o fumes, without the need of a carb or a fuel pump. Those items are implemented just to control and fine tune the motor, so making sure the carb work comes out correctly is essential. Cleaning and​ careful assembly is important, but adjustments and careful inspections are paramount, i.e., float,,as well as drop and level, metering components, springs, orfices..on and on. I'm sure you're not a novice you definitely don't sound like one. I hope I'm not sounding like a smart aleck.. just trying to help and at times I get carried away.

First I would make sure the plugs are firing.. easy enough check #1, also it helps having a remote starter, also make sure you're getting constant voltage to the coil. Start by manually priming the carb with small amounts of fuel see what it does. Start with the basics, at this point you have to isolate, fuel or spark? I'm assuming the rest is fine.

The little idiosyncrasies of going fast. The speed bug stings awful hard, much more agressive than the snowball effect.

Very nice!

I wish I could help with the pertronix hook-up, I have never used one. Although a coil is a coil, the difference? One style uses an external ballast and the other does not. Knowing the type you have is essentially the importance, remember the ballast resistor drops the voltage to the coil so not to heat it up while it's being used, also it extends points life.. now the reason maybe that the pertronix system requires a coil that does not require a ballasted coil. Looking at the wiring schematic it shows that all wiring hook up is done before the ballast resistor, hence I would assume a 12v power hook up. If in doubt I would assume that they have a tech support at pertronix. Good luck!

Not a problem! You're welcome, I used to be a firm believer on leaving things as they were.. until I discovered that I was spending some serious money on (blue streak) points, being that the quality of points had demished. The uniset style kinda sucked cause for the most part they had a tendency to float at higher rev's and came with a much higher price. I finally threw in the towel and went HEI.. It gave me all I was looking for except for the original look under the hood. Besides that unless you're​ buying NOS you're probably buying reboxed or repackeged Chinese. Good luck!

Rockauto.com will ship it to you. Sometimes shipping can​ be a little expensive if you want it right away but if you willing to wait it will be at your doorstep pretty quick.

I have bought two sets from the parts place, the closest to original you can buy. If I remember correctly I have only seen a set of NOS ones on EBAY, and they went for a pretty penny. Now the repops I believe are no textured as nice as the general's but they​ come close enough for my liking.

Dwell meter for the points, some people use a feeler gauge to get you close enough, and then screw them in while the car is running (CW) and just before it dies turn them (CCW) from a quarter of a turn to half turn. As far as the iddle mixture screws, a tachometer is very handy in this case, or a vacuum gauge. Using both in a sense where you get the highest reading if you will. Although the initial setting a turn and a half is plenty to get it started. You're on the right path.. Good luck!

No mention of points? Replacing points is a must, have you checked them out, to see if they're pitted? Set the dwell angle, iddle mixture screws, and iddle. Are you sure you're not sucking vacuum from the base of the carb?

Ditto! On the points. HEI, performance is much better like night and day.

Well at least we're moving in the right direction. The Monte Carlo bug stings all of us, when it's not one thing it's another. Let's not even speak of "snowball"

Funny! How we all in need manage to find a better solution. For me the 10si one wire did the trick, I basically left the existing wiring intact left the old regulator in place, and just used the main battery wire to the alternator. The self exciting 63a was the ticket for me. There's only been once where I had to manually excite it and that's when I took the unit apart to replace brushes.

I agree with Dan, anytime you crack it open the need for evacuation is so very important. Yet I'm speaking from an R12 perspective, the worse enemy is moisture in the system. A simple wrong manifold and hose hook up can easily introduce moisture if not purged correctly, although eventually the dryer will slowly correct it, it is important to follow certain procedures​ that can not​ be overlooked. One of those often overlooked and hardly discussed is system flushing. The worse enemy is contamination, black death is one that was discovered years ago, once there is black death in the system, it's recommended to replace everything in the entire system since flushing might not remove everything ... I was actually leary at first to start servicing my own systems, yet with the rise in price of freon and the regulation. So I had no choice but to inform and educate myself if I didn't want to pay the exorbitant pricing. There's a firm belief in me that some things should be left and done by the pros, in fear of screwing something up. The lack of knowledge didn't actually dictate my need, more like the pricing.

I like the paper filter, the brass filter is okay, yet I've seen the brass one so plugged you couldn't blow through it. Also I don't see a spring in the pictures. I did have one? Lots of debris, plenty of stuff to hang that needle.

Three '70s all with A/C with long one's, all built at Van Nuys plant.

All great advice! For the life of me I can't recall the location of the pesky clip, if my mind serves me right, I thought they were more common on a two barrel carbs? Another thing that came to mind the float seat..(needle & seat) a loose seat which is uncommon can give you the same outcome,, just something I remember seeing before. Definitely keep us posted on your finding. Another thing I noticed hardly anyone carries carburetor dip anymore.

I'm with Bob, old crappy battery or bad diode in alternator.

How about the fast iddle screw? Is the fast iddle cam adjusted properly?

As far as filling #8? I think just a coincidence. You know the motor is raked a few degrees back and it also tends to lean at times a bit more on the passenger side. Slightly.. perhaps the fuel is just finding itself to the lowest point. Also I couldn't agree more with Sam's suggestion on removing all the plugs.

Take the carb off rebuild it I'd say. You obviously have a float issue, a sinking float, an improperly float level, a resilent needle that's burred, how about a piece of that rubber hose stuck in the needle and seat area? Seen it before, where the stock fuel filter is deleted in place of an online one. Double check that float specially​ on a rochester carb.