Sam (Bones)

it is always more cost effective to buy one that has already been restored

some key things to remember about grounding, you can ground the engine almost anywhere but.... you just detailed your engine and freshly painted everything, that paint can cause poor grounding, wherever any part touches the block, you need to remove the paint on the block and the part so it has continuity where the starter sits against the block....make sure the block surface is clean and not painted/same with the starter, this is how the starter gets its ground upper alt bracket... make sure the paint is removed between the bracket and the intake, also where the ground cable bolts to the bracket lower alt bracket...clean the surface of the head and both ends of the alt spacer, and don't forget the alt itself! grounding is all about cleanliness, no paint, no rust even on the attaching bolts, running a tap into bolt holes to clean them helps dramatically!!!! some dielectric grease on all grounding points wards off corrosion

there is a cable adjustment on the shifter that may have come loose, it may also be a good idea to check the cable bracket at the transmission

Not on the fronts, that rears should be fine

most were not posi axles, my '71 was originally a 12 bolt 2.73:1 single legger

http://www.inlinetube.com/

I love the legendary sport seat covers!!!!

sounds like the float is sticking closed, it has enough fuel to idle, but that's about it, carb might have gotten gummed up a little from sitting

it's a great price, but the compression ratio and being a solid cam, I wouldn't buy it for what you are looking for

they should

you may still need to change the carrrier

if you want a positraction, a new carrier would be needed for what you are looking to do...a 3.31 gear is a great choice, but not the easiest ratio to find if you can't find a 3.31, then I would opt for the 3.42 unless you are planning on using an overdrive transmission then I would opt for a 3.55 or 3.73

there were 2 different blue interiors for 1970 but both used the dark blue dash pad

most people adjust the idles screws to lean on a Eddy carb, usually open them another 1/4 turn and that stumble will go away

hold off on the plugs for now with the engine warmed up.... close both throttle blades completely, then open both of them 1 full turn and try to start it and see if it will idle, start with your idle screws at 1 1/2 turns out open and/or close both the same amount to get it to idle, then start adjusting your idle screws, turn each in 1/4 turn at a time until the idle starts to drop, then open each one back up 1/4 turn, if the idle screws are less than 1 1/2 turns out, you need to put a larger idle air bleed in it, start with .010 larger

double check and triple check the firing order, it is SO EASY!!!! to get 5 & 7 swapped

that's close, what happens when you turn the idle screws in more? I'm almost considering you may need to put a smaller idle feed restricter in it

How much initial timing you running?

Up the idle air bleed .010 Looks like you need a hotter plug too

2 circuit cool! post a picture of it if you can how far out are your idle screws? what size are the idle air bleeds? I can get this real close without a A/F meter

yes

I have seen green, blue and tan columns

Just Google it, there is tons and tons of info on it

no