GatorDog72

Yes, but its more than just a check valve. The PCV valve is designed so that under high manifold vacuum (idle), it will flow very little. When the throttle is opened and manifold vacuum goes down, it opens completely to allow crankcase vapors to get sucked into the manifold. Here's a link to good article explaining fully how the system works. http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/10%20TSB's/94-2R1.pdf EDIT: The link isn't working but that's the correct address for it.

It can go in either side if you want

That breather likely doesn't have a check valve in it like a factory PCV valve, it just breaths. Using the breather as a PCV system will just cause a huge vacuum leak at idle. Run a breather in one valve cover and a PCV check valve on the hose that goes to the back of the carb. My carb didn't have a port for PCV, I just use two breathers in the valve covers. The oil gets dirty very quickly without the PCV though. Here's whats the valve should look like. It just goes in the same spot in the valve cover where the breather goes.

Use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. The distilled water does make a difference, regular tap water will cause corrosion and deposits much faster. I used to just fill mine with the garden hose until I found my thermostat housing almost completely clogged with gunk. Or just use the pre-diluted coolant, but its more expensive.

I got all the hard lines on the manifold plumbed in. It came out really nice, but a couple lines are bent funny. I will have to fix them at some point. Hopefully I can get the bottle filled this week, so I can test blast this manifold. This thing looks serious!! Now I'm trying to figure out the fuel side of things. My original plan was to tap into the fuel log feeding the carburetor, but this system needs a dedicated fuel pressure regulator. I will have to tee off the high pressure feed line from the tank to a deadhead regulator set at 10 lbs to feed the fuel solenoids. I also want to run two small bleed lines from the fuel solenoids plumbed back into the return line to make sure there's no airlocks in the fuel system. More parts are on the way....

Which connector are you referring to? The port at the radiator should be an inverted flare type. I stripped the port out on my radiator and just bypassed the whole thing until I get it fixed.

More parts came in today. Got my tubing bender so I started bending all the lines up. I almost ditched the stainless lines for something easier to bend, but it worked okay. I got one side done and test fit on the car. Two nozzles hit on the bolt boss for the valve covers and won't let the manifold sit all the way down. I hope I can just turn the nozzle a little bit. If not, I'll have to grind notches in the valve covers. Everything else clears okay. Once the rest of the manifold is all plumbed up, I will test it outside the car to make sure the nozzles are all pointed straight down the runners.

Thanks for the advice! I figured I should just change it out, just wish they were a little cheaper lol. Oh well, better safe then sorry.

The camshaft in my engine calls for a bronze distributor gear. When I installed the distributor, I didn't have the depth of the gear set correctly. The gear is more worn at the bottom and not meshing at the top. I fixed the depth problem, but the gear is worn unevenly. I know the bronze gears get chewed up quickly, should I just replace the gear now, or would it be okay to run this one a while longer? The stupid gear costs about $60 + shipping so I don't want to waste it if its still usable.

Mine's a 72 and was missing the trim piece when I bought it. I don't plan to put one on either, I like the way it looks without one. If you like the way yours looks with the trim, put it on there. I don't worry too much about being "correct" Just do what you think looks cool

Got the intake back from the machine shop today. The foggers are installed in the runners and are ready for plumbing. The manifold already had bosses cast on the intake runners, so no welding was required. Had to tip them all 2 degrees toward the carburetor for valve cover clearance. Now the fun part begins, bending the stainless steel 3/16" hard-lines and finding room for the solenoids. The tubing has a flare on the nozzle end, and uses compression fittings on the solenoid end. I ordered a nice tubing bender to make this job a little easier, it should be here by the end of the week.

Got the manifold ripped off the motor today, I will drop it off at the machine shop tomorrow. Running the hard-lines is going to be difficult. There's not much room to work between the throttle linkage/ fuel log and the valve covers. I was going to try and tuck the solenoids into the valley between the center 2 runners on the manifold, but it wont fit. This system is going to be a pain to set up compared to the single foggers or a plate system. I would have gone with a plate system, but the hood already rubs on the air cleaner with the carburetor bolted straight to the intake. I ordered a 15 pound bottle with this system, I have a feeling I will need another one. $9 a pound for nitrous is insane! I thought the local speed shops were expensive, they filled my 10 lb bottle for $75. I'm going to a welding supply to get a 100 lb mother bottle, I hope its cheaper than that!

Time to do some more work. I ordered a direct port kit from Nitrous Express and will be installing it on the 489 in my Monte. Should be insane, it comes with jetting for 200-600 HP. I've installed smaller, single-fogger NOS systems on my older cars but never anything this big. I'm going to use a progressive controller so it doesn't come on all at once. The intake manifold has to come off and get drilled and tapped for the foggers. I'm bringing it to a machine shop to have it milled to fix the end gaps from leaking oil, and I'll have them drill it out while it's there. I'll install the rest of the system. Any nitrous guys out there, any advice is appreciated!

Sea foam does work, but it can't make miracles happen. I also use this stuff in a can called "dragons breath" it eats through carbon like crazy. Good for blasting out carburetors and such

Usually when you purchase a float/ rebuild kit, it will come with a table to show the different float level adjustments for whichever engine you are working on.

It's finally warm enough to drive the car, so I'm going to continue to get this carburetor dialed in better. It's much closer than it was out of the box, but its still rich at part throttle cruise and WOT. I'm getting around 11:1 on the highway cruising around 5% throttle, and around 12:1 when I floor it. I'm thinking to drop a couple jet sizes on the mains on both the front and rear blocks, then see where its at. As I started leaning the fuel curve out, I noticed a new problem. With the RPM that this engine turns at higher cruising speeds, the water temp starts to creep up higher into the 210's- 220's until I slow down and turn the electric fans on. I may need to install a larger radiator to keep things cooled off. Overall the car runs well. It's not blowing black smoke everywhere and throttle response is good, but I know there's more in it.

Don't change the plugs or the oil until you find the cause of the flooding, you could wind up with brand new oil with a bunch of gas mixed in. Be careful! With as much gas as you found in #8, you could easily hydro-lock the engine and break stuff. Pull all the spark plugs out if you have to crank the engine over for diagnosis. Just cranking it won't hurt anything, but if it starts with that much fluid in the chamber it could be a disaster. Like Sam said, I would check for a stuck float first. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, you will need to crank the engine and watch the vent tube on the top of the carburetor for gas spilling out. If you have an electric fuel pump, the pump should come on as soon as you turn the key to the on position. In my car, the engine sits in the car tilted slightly back. That's my guess as to why only #8 filled with gas. On a dual plane intake manifold, #8 also has a pretty straight shot to the port. Could be that the intake valve just happened to be open when you stopped cranking. Good luck with the fix.

This is what I think is going on. I first thought maybe one of the cooler lines came loose and drained the cooler...nope both were tight. Fluid was coming out from the top of the tube like it was overfilled. Then the level dropped once I ran the car so I'm thinking it filled the converter back up. I guess it fixed itself because its been sitting a few days and its still not leaking.

I put my car in storage last fall, and over winter it decided to randomly puke transmission fluid onto the floor. Quite a bit came out, I would say maybe 3-4 quarts. I found the leak, its coming out of the TOP of the fill tube. This is with the car sitting for months without being run or moved at all. It seemed to be random too. every time I tried to figure out where it was coming from there was no leak. I did notice that the dipstick was just sitting in the tube loose, maybe this had something to do with it...? I started the car and let it warm up to check the fluid level and it wasn't even on the stick. I thought maybe I had over-filled it but I guess not. I topped off the fluid and drove it around, it seems fine. It shifts ok and its not leaking anymore. Very strange. What would cause it to puke fluid out the dipstick tube with the car just sitting in storage? I thought maybe the vent tube was clogged, but it stopped leaking once I started the car... The transmission is a Turbo 400 with a reverse manual valve body. Its got a deep pan on it also. The internals have been worked over a bit. It's pretty much brand new, almost no miles on it yet. If it starts leaking again I'm going to call the shop that built the trans to see if they can help.

Had some awesome 70 degree weather today, so I woke up the Monte from winter storage. Did a valve lash adjustment and an oil change then went for a drive. Shes hittin' on all 8 and ready to rip! Hurry up and get all this salt crap off the roads, I have no traction!

I also put the moog cargo coils in my car. 275's on 8.5 inch wheels fit perfectly in the rear.

Unless you have deep scoring on the cylinder walls, you could get away with doing a valve job and a quick hone with new piston rings. This is a quick fix and won't last forever. If you want it to go another 160k without issues, I would just bite the bullet and rebuild the entire thing.

New custom plates came in the mail today. Finally found one I like that wasn't taken already. Check it out!

This is the rad I'm using. Keeps my big block cool with electric fans and water pump on a 90 degree day

Holy cow! I've dug car parts out of the woods that have had less mud. that's amazing!