Paul Bell

As I have a fiberglass hood, I've been debating how to mount windshield squirters. The idea came to me that many vehicles today have squirters on the wiper blades. I found these on Ebay from a 97~01 Jeep Cherokee rear wiper. They snap on the Monte arms nicely. I think a drop of super glue will make sure they stay snapped.

Stock style exhaust manifolds rob power. What's wrong with the Hooker headers?

OK, I'll post the first pic. Not my car, it's a member that lives on Long Island.

Starting a thread for people to post rare or rare combinations of factory installed options. I've see: Radio delete, 4 speed on the floor with bench seat, 402 engine with manual steering, front drum brakes and today (on Facebook), a G67 leveling system on a non-SS car, a documented 1972 Canadian car. Whatcha got?

Doing a second coat today. Sharpie oil based paint marker. Shake it up!

On top of the frame next to the gas tank on the driver's side.

Bruce, I think the 1970 cars used a chain at the carb. You 1971 car has no chain but I think it's correct for 71. This is from the 1971 assembly manual.

As this wire was added after the body was assembled on the Fisher Body side, the brake booster would have been put on the body first. It would easier to drop the wire over the booster than under and speed is everything on an assembly line. It's also a more direct path for the wire. I'd say the wire belongs over the booster.

730 installed in 1970, 11,510 installed in 1972. Zero in 1971 must be because they lost the records. It was specifically not available on any SS454 Monte Carlos because the superlift pump was mounted where the cruise control was supposed to be.

Except for a drag rear tire from MT or Nitto, I'd only use a BFG Radial T/A, I love the looks-and they perform great. There are whitewall paints that hold up pretty well, Ranger is just one: https://www.rangerpaint.com/

Douglas, at the underhood blower relay, the 18 gauge orange wire is connected to the 10 gauge wire from the underhood fuse feeding the plug for the relay. This splice is in the relay's plug crimp. As the 10 gauge wire is hot all the time, so is the 18 gauge orange wire going back into the dash via the cowl grommet. Yes, this makes this skinny little wire protected by a 30 amp fuse. This gives power to the anti-dieseling & blocking relays after the ignition key is turned to off and allows the relays to do their thing-which is to turn on the compressor for a few seconds to stop the engine. 1970 cars didn't have any of this and I'm not sure about 1972 cars. Correct wiring diagrams for 1972 cars are hard to come by.

I also say the switch is bad. Confirming, this is a 1971 car? I'll look up the orange wire later.

Hey Thomas, an LT1, eh? What are your plans for an EFI system?

Dennis, you'd need to buy two sets: https://www.opgi.com/keys-locks/lock-sets/lock-key-set-ignition-door/lock-set-ignitiondoors-1969-78-gm-kk26046.html https://www.opgi.com/keys-locks/lock-sets/lock-key-set-glove-box-trunk-console/lock-set-glove-boxtrunkconsole-1970-72-chevellemonte-carlo-ch23707.html You'll need gaskets: https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/weatherstripping-rubber-details/lock-cylinder-gaskets6/1957-88-door-trunk-lock-cylinder-gasket-kit-3-pcs-dlg1010.html The glove box cylinder is pretty tricky. Remove the door and do it on a well lit workbench.

Square ignition key works the doors and ignition. Round key works the glove box, center console and trunk. This is so a car parking guy can open the doors and start the engine but not get into your locked storage.

For a 1971 car, "RU" indicates 3.31 12 bolt, 454 LS5 car. "C" is Buffalo, N.Y. build. And yes, 8/11 "223" is the 223rd day of the year 1970. http://chevellestuff.net/1971/rear_axle.htm

Welcome! Nice purchase! What interior? Numbers matching engine block?

Lemme add this: If you have the pan off, you can check the accuracy of the dipstick's "full" mark. The exact full fluid level is even with the pan rail.

(edited in case the original link disappears)

Zeb, the copper coil windings in the starter motor can have their enamel coating break down over many years and heat/cold cycles. As the engine runs and heats up, the starter also gets hot. This causes the coil windings to expand. This is why a "bad" starter is fine when the engine is cold but it's bad when you try to re-start it when hot.

Drum brakes have an adjuster that operates when you hit the brakes while backing up. They're left/right specific. If you mixed them up, every time you step on the brakes, they'll adjust tighter. When I used to do drum brakes, I pulled both drums but did one side completely before disassembling the other.

The underhood wiring for the power & charging system is the same for 1972 cars.

I was gonna ask if it still did it at 140 MPH but I see it's solved. Great!

Mark, make up a one to two pigtail like this and you won't need to cut off the blue & white plugs that came on your harnesses. Make it long so you can poke it up away from hanging down in front of the fuse box. 14 gauge wire is more than enough and two will fit together in a yellow (10 gauge) crimp.

Cut off the incorrect plugs from the two wires, strip and crimp them into one 1/4" female connector and push it onto the BATT terminal in the fuse box.