Paul Bell

Welcome Jeff! Place the band clamp around the axle tube and slip the hose bracket under it. Tighten clamp. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-rbhtk

Meanwhile, I just learned on the Chevelles Forum that Goodmark has two bumper grades, Asian import and a US made version that's much better. Same part number but the US made one has an "A" at the end. It's $274 shipped on Ebay.

I'm also looking at a front bumper for my car. The AMD number is 100-3671, when I search for it on Ebay, seller Tamraz comes up but the 100-3671 is noted as "other part number" and it says made in Taiwan. It also has the Goodmark number. Is the AMK bumper US or Taiwan made? Is what Tamraz selling the AMK version?

Now ya see it, now ya don't! Passenger side cooler is for transmission, other is engine oil. Thermostats on each fender skirt. I added a small bar from each cooler to the hood latch reinforcement so they don't vibrate. Grommet behind the right fender extension is for the #6 AC line. Both lines sneak in front of the battery. The #6 line stays well hidden up in the fender and will come out right at the expansion valve at the AC box.

I make my own. I changed everything to Aeroquip fabric covered Startlite hose long ago. It's waayyy easier to cut and assemble, bend and about half the weight of the stainless braided stuff. And the stainless braided hose can saw through things it vibrates against.

I have a collection of spark plug sockets, some specialty, some custom modified by me. I also have the advantage of aftermarket heads that use 5/8 drive spark plugs. My old Hooker headers made #8 impossible to get to. It looks like the ARH are better, time will tell.

lolz Mark, put yer glasses on. Passenger side cylinders front to rear are 2,4, 6, 8. 🧐 😀

As my engine is locked away in my friend's machine shop and I don't have the heads yet, I'm doing some other tiding up work. My oil & trans coolers were zip-tied to the condenser which I hated. I'm bolting them to the valance panel, I'm putting in rivnuts in the panel for them. I got a Vintage Air condenser kit for our cars and the condenser it came with left about a 4 inch gap. I found a slightly wider (& taller) condenser on Ebay and got it installed. I only used two brackets, the drier and one pre-bent tube from the kit.

Mark, I replied in the BB Headers thread.

Hey Mark, my engine is still out so I'm pretty far off from knowing this answer. #4 plug is the second one back, the furthest back is #8.

Bob, can you post a pic of this valve? I've never known them to be mounted on the rear frame, they're usually under the master cylinder. The separate hold off valve is only on 1970 cars.

If by hold down valve you mean residual pressure valve, no, none are used with disc brakes.

How's access to the #8 plug?

Mark, are those the American Racing Headers? 2"?

Willie, rear speaker and defroster blower wires go under the carpet on the passenger side, unprotected. The wire channel on the driver's side only has the rear body harness in it. If you have the interior out, it wouldn't hurt to add a few 12 gauge wires to the wire channel for future stuff.

Thanks for that Dale, I was looking for a complete rag joint, not the rebuild kit. I have learned that our cars came with both sizes: Power steering boxes have a 13/16" output shaft and manual steering boxes have a 3/4" input shaft. The 13/16" power steering version uses Lares 201. The 3/4" manual steering version uses Lares 200.

And another:

They discuss the convertible top, halo roof and fiberglass front inner fenders.

When a Chevy A-body was factory built with high power drawing accessories such as power seats, windows or convertible top, it received this additional 30 amp power feed with a circuit breaker and 10 gauge wire from the horn relay. If the 1972 fuse box was updated to include a accessory 30 amp fuse it it, the separate wire and breaker under the hood wouldn't be needed-and this makes sense. But the main fuse box feed wire would need to be 10 gauge with a different fuseable link, not the 12 gauge the 1970 & 71 cars had.

This is interesting. As it's 30 amp, is the red main fuse box feed from the horn relay 10 gauge? For 70 & 71, it's marked as 12 gauge. Would this replace the separate 10 gauge wire and circuit breaker on the firewall that was installed for power windows and seats (and convertible tops on Chevells)?

The original 194 lamp is 3.78 watts, lamp 17177 is 5 watts so it's nicely brighter. Direct replacement. If you try to replace the bulbs with the cluster in place, you greatly increase the chance of tearing up the copper spot contacts on the flex board for them. https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Lighting-BP17177-Miniature-Bulb/dp/B000C920AW

Don, tell us more about this engine. Is it in a 1972 Monte or is that what it was taken from? Is there a W in the VIN of the car?

I agree it's a re-stamp. The 7 is out of line. The stamp used to make these was a holder that all the numbers slipped into that imprinted them with one hit. The holder kept the number dies in line. Sorry!

Now I want BBQ chicken.