DavidTX

Information previously supplied: Alrighty then!!!! posted 10-05-2006 09:56 AM10-05-2006 09:56 AM Check this article and sponcer links. Chances are you have an 8.5 inch ring gear, but be sure to check the housing to be sure. This article shows the housing differences. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49998_10_bolt_identification_guide/index.html big gear head Junior Member posted 10-05-2006 07:58 PM10-05-2006 07:58 PM Most of the '71 and '72 Monte Carlos had the 8.2 10 bolt, but there were a few that got the 8.5 10 bolt. The 8.2 has a 1 1/8 pinion nut and 3/8 ring gear bolts with 9/16 heads. The 8.5 has a 1 1/4 pinion nut and 7/16 ring gear bolts with 3/4 heads and left hand threads. If you have the 8.2 with 2.73 gears then you will need a 3 series differential. This would be a good time to get a new Eaton 3 series posi. If you have the 8.5 rear end then you can use the 3.73 on the same differential as the 2.73. RichMonte Junior Member posted 11-14-2006 06:06 PM11-14-2006 06:06 PM Richmond makes gears for 8.2 from 3.08 up. they are strong but run a little noisey compared to some others like motive etc. GM gears are very (most) quiet but I can not attest to their strength. Do not skimp on gears especially if you are running an 8.2 rear. Also, i found Eaton posi to be perfect for all around street and some strip time. Clutches are not noisey and no chatter going around corners etc. MY TWO CENTS Posts: 33 | From: Montville, NJ | Registered: Dec 2005 | IP: Logged | monzaz Member posted 11-22-2006 01:04 AM11-22-2006 01:04 AM All montes came with CHEVY c-clip 8.2 10 bolts in 1971 and 1972. In 1970 gm had some kind of strike and to keep the lines moving they used 10 bolt pontiac 8.2 bolt in axle differential (1970 only). 1970 -1972 12 bolt c-clip type differentials were also available option. The 8.5 10 bolt did not come out till 1971 and they were only found under the skylark and oldsmobile. NOW NOT to say that your car does not have one but anything can happen over 30+ years. ALL of these rears from 1968 1972 interchange with very miner changes such as u-joints and shorter or longer driveshafts. This is why just having the year is NOT good enough for rear differential or transmission or engine identification. Physical or factory casting number are a must...and even that may be unreliable. On differentials ring gear size, ring gear bolts size and count compared with cover bolt number, bearing part numbers, pinion spline count, yoke type, and axle retention are some of the ways to physically id a rearend differential. You can also use a ring gear spacer with the proper lenght bolts until you get the money for your 3 series unit. Proper install spacer will hold just fine on the street and minimal track use. Been tested already by me... engine transmission and rearend rely on good installation to get the most from your performance parts. With out attention to the small details the performance parts will not hold any better than stock. Good luck on your diff project if you need any help advise or parts (gears and posi rebuild kit) pm I will help you out. Or I think biggearhead does the same also. Jim [ 11-22-2006, 01:05 AM: Message edited by: monzaz ]

I purchased my 3.55 gears, installation kit, and Eaton limited slip from ebay. I assume you have seen dirt track race cars at local transmission or engine repair shops. Stop and ask them who rebuilds rearends. You should be able to get someone to do it for $100-150. That is what I did and they did a great job.

In this area (Central Texas) I have bought and seen two others for $200.00. This is within the last year. All have been in salvage yards or swap meets.

The best place to find answers about the 61 is: http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/36/keyword/1961-1964_Fullsize_Chevys/

What is the resistor for/or where is it located?

For the running bad portion, the first thing I would do is check the points and timing.

Not all those rubber oil caps have OIL marked on them. About half have 710 marked on them. That is what the blond told me. Maybe she just had it turned around 180*.

Kevin, Hope this isn't too late. I was looking throuigh an OPGI catalogue and they have yokes in 4 different lengths. This could possibly fix your problem, depending on the length yoke you have now.

I have a 700R-4 in my 71. I do have the correct adapter on the carb for the TV cable. I seem to have the cable adjusted properly, good hard shifts with WOT and not too hard with normal acceleration. My problem is that it shifts at about 4,200 to 4,400 rpm at WOT. My engine is dyno'ed at 421 HP at 5,800 RPM and I am not able to take advantage of the available power. How can I get it to shift at higher RPM's?.

By using the chart it is easy enough to see what driven gear you need. It takes less than 5 minutes to install/attempt to install it. If it will not work, you will then have to change the drive gear. That will probably require a Transmission repairman to drop the driveshaft, remove the tailshaft and replace the drive gear. I bought my drive gear at Autozone to have it installed. I think I did have to special order the driven gear.

First you need to consider several things: Why do you want to cruise at lower RPM on the highway? Better gas mileage or ?. You may or may not get better mileage. It depends on carb, cam, heads, timeing and numerous other factors. If you are driving in an area with a lot of hills, you might have difficulty maintaining constant speed without the transmission downshifting. You will get better mileage with a transmission that has a lock-up torque converter. It also prevents heat buildup from that slipping torque converter. I thought it might be helpful to consider these things in case you had not previously thought about them.

These are the one's that I have installed and am extremely pleased with them. If I am ever in an accident, I expect it to be money well spent. http://www.morrisclassicconcepts.com/Billy%20Page%20Three.htm Here is some that are more economical but doubt if they are as good: http://www.julianos.com/retract_3point.html

If you are changing from column shift to console shifter, just wanted too make sure that you are aware of additional wiring harness. There is a wiring harness under the carpet coming from under the dash that connects to the back-up lights and neutral safety switch.

The 71 does not have an "idle kicker". The relay on the carb is activated anytime the ignition switch is on. It is to prevent the engine from dieseling. It allows the carb butterflies to close completely to prevent fuel from entering the intake manifold. I had my 71 over a year before I found out about that.

I had a similar problem and it was the ground. As Robert said and my instructions stated not to put any teflon tape on the sending unit.

My son says that it works great on outboard motors as well as both 2 and 4 cycle motorcycles.

I used Marine Tex on my 57 and it worked great. Check this: http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showto...arch/1/#1171810

The first place I would check is at the carb. Depending on which carb you are running dedides if you need an adaptor. If required and you don't have an adaptor for the TV cable, it will never shift right. That will certainly cause premature xmsn failure.

Chevy high performance did a good article. Try: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95098_chevrolet_third_generation_ls1/index.html

If you have a stock cam you can get by with the smaller booster. With a larger cam, you will have less vacuum and can have problems.

I also have 3.55 with Eaton. Hard to beat. I purchased my Eaton (new)from Ebay and saved a bunch. Also 700R4.

See http://cgi.ebay.com/700R4-Forth-Gear-Tor...VQQcmdZViewItem

There are two different types. One works completely off Xmsn pressure when it is in overdrive. The other type works off of vacuum and also has a switch on the brake (cruise control switch). It will disengage any time you apply the brake.

You will also need a kit to get the lock-up converter to work.

That is the bracket I was referring to. The rear of the shifter bracket attaches there.