Scott S.

I don't believe parts are available for repairs..... Being a "life safety" device, and the fact that they're fairly inexpensive, I think you're going to have to buy the whole unit. But I could be wrong...... lol

Bronze guides are a factory part..... Better heat dispersion and being being the smallest/easiest part to replace, they were meant to be the part that wore out first. (Softer metal theory)

Sounds like you're running 2.73 to 3.08 gears in the differential, assuming your in overdrive at 2000 rpm. That might have a small effect on your take off. A stall converter around 2300-2500 rpm seems to work in most cases...... Is your 700r4 equipped with a "lock up" converter ? And, if so, did they wire it up correctly ? Just a note, gear ratios are stamped on the ring as a ratio...... last 4 digits, (13-43= 3.31... ) etc.

Quick question..... What carb are you using..... When I first got mine, she had been set up for lower elevations, so i had to hold the gas pedal just to keep her running. I wound up backing up the air screws and leaning out the jetting. As for the transmission, when I put a rebuilt 200r4 in, it took several attempts to set the TV cable.... Finally took it to the guy who did the transmission to get it right. Also, did you have your 700r4 rebuilt ? If so, they probably upgraded the springs and clutches, which will put a bit more "snap" in your shifting. How this helps. Scott.

I've often wondered....... No matter how old or what shape we find these cars in, the back seat is almost always in great condition. Why is that ????

Montelishi came with a 1405, plus the matching cam and intake. She was jetted for lower elevations, so when she got to the mountains, I had to lean ot the jetting quite a bit....... But working on Edelbrock is pretty simple.

Sure you can...... Just need a bigger shovel.

Roadkill did a Pontiac T-37 as well.

Sounds about right.... With all the matched up components from the different manufacturer's, it basically a question of what you want to get out of your engine.

Ah, that's a good idea..... I used some of the retaining framework from a model kit, shaped the end and glued a flat piece to it. Should have maybe gone with the clear plastic instead. But the bumps in the rod give it a more secure grip in the foam float.

Yeah, but Chip Foose likes to tear everything out of his projects and build them on a generic frame with big wheels....... Kind of takes the fun out of it.

She got the house in the divorce ??

Actually, correction, it's Velocity on the Discovery network.

They did come with ashtrays and lighters as standard equipment...... Even in the back seat, so you could relax with your "date" back there.

Hey Grant, I was wondering how you made the indicators....... I used black plastic, so I don't get the color coded signal that your's sends. Just light on or off. Luckily, I still have the original float, but I found something at Micheal's, kind of resembles a thin pool noodle. Or there's always the foam insulator they use for precast concrete. Most home supply places should carry it. Scott.

Age is also a factor..... Have you rebuilt either of them ? I've personally had very little luck with the 10 bolt 8.2" differentials. (Replaced a few over the years) Adding that much horse power, you should play it safe and upgrade to a heavy duty 12 bolt.

I believe it's easier to connect to the column first, then bolt/screw the indicator in place...... At least that's how I did it on a '76 Silverado.

The only issue I've ever encountered with headers is the clearance for spark plugs...... Had to pull my headers off to get the "stock" style plugs out. Plus there was some contact between the pipes and wires. I recommend the "short" plugs when going with headers.... It still might require loosening the pipes to change them next time, but the contact issue is solved.

Peel off the vinyl and a good steam cleaning and she'll be as good as new.

If you have Crave, you can watch all their episodes on demand...... As well as many others.

Special order car ???

That part works.... As well as twisting the headlight switch. The dash lights only effect the dome light..... I replaced the fuse yesterday with a higher amperage one. Dimmed the dome light, but seemed to stay on. I'll see how long this one lasts, but it appears that my LEDs are drawing more amps than I thought they would.

That could be.....

Only when the fuse is good.... When the fuse fails, I get both modes working. I don't believe the light switch and the door switch share the same circuit..... Just send power to the same device/light. Which is why it's strange that a failure only effects the dome light and not the rest.

And a whole new vocabulary the wife won't let you use in public.