Scott S.

U-joints and mounting points were the biggest differences. Although Moog has almost anything to solve that problem. Monte Carlos at the end of year runs were most likely to get these parts, as Chevelles were the priority on the assembly line. And when there weren't enough parts to go around, G.M. brought in what hadn't been used for LeMans, Cutlass, and Skylark models.

Highway speed being 70 mph+ ? That's where aerodynamics comes into play...... If your car sits level or a little "front high" (large tires may do that), the winds at that speed will tend to lift the front and lower tire contact with the road. Suspension adjustments should correct that, and even tire sizing will play a part. I went with adding a front spoiler, and I've seen some improvement with that as well. P.S., There are tons of OEM options available to accomplish what you're trying to do.

Just a quick question.... How long has it been since you last drove an older car ? I have an '04 Monte as well, and the steering is night and day different, so it may just be what you're comparing it to. That being said, the front springs could be soft, as well as the sway bar.... I've read that upgrading these can make a big difference. Have you had any issues with fender rub using that size of tire in the front ??

Hey Paul, You actually have to separate the engine and transmission and remove the flywheel to get at the frost plugs at the back of the block. It's just easier to do them all at once when you rebuild the engine. As for the motor mounts, that's a matter of personal preference, but going to the poly mounts will send more engine vibration into the frame. Poly is more for racing when you're trying to get every foot pound of torque to the ground. Stick with the rubber would be my advice.

Were you the kind of kid that liked to break his toys ?? LOL !!!! I find building better, stronger, faster the best place to start...... But then again, I wouldn't have had as much fun playing with Montelishi if the last owner had.

And when that happens.... No one's happy.

No.... A re build would mean taking everything apart, cleaning, replacing worn parts (bearings,seals,gaskets,maybe lifters and rods,etc), maybe some upgrades, (cam, timing gear) And painting the finished product.....

One step forward... Two steps back..... Solved the leaking rad cap issue and now the gremlins are coming out.

I got the ones listed for my car.... Definite improvement over the air shocks and NAPA OEM ones I had, but has less give in them when I corner.

Was never impressed with TCI transmissions..... Montelishi had one when I bought her, sloppy and slipped. Made the switch to a local custom rebuilt th200r4...... Bullet proofed to 750 hp. And just remember, a crate LS6 has a little bit more twist than a 454.

Napa has them for about $100.00 (Can.) Plus core. Zinc colored. Not to hard to swap, but remember to set the rod to the correct depth.

Guess I should have been more inquisitive before I got my KYB's.....

Summit Racing has a selection that might interest you. I've heard good things about them, cleaner and quieter... But not sure if it interferes with the fan shroud.

I've never had the heater apart, so I couldn't say for sure, but there's no valve on the fender....

Time for a rebuild or replacement.... The actuating cam has probably worn out, (usually a cream coloured wheel about 1 1/2" in diameter) and isn't activating any of the wiper motor functions. Luckily it's a fairly generic part from G.M., so finding one, (a motor) should be easy enough. Just remember to keep the original works that hook to the motor, as every car has it's own geometry for operating.

So there is some type of flow regulation at the heater.... Can this valve be located inside the heater box ? My '70 doesn't have a valve on the fender.

O.K... Weird question, I have a flushing tee in my heater return line that only leaked (through the cap) when I used the heater. Otherwise it never gave me any problem. Why would that happen ? P.S. I've since replaced the gasket in the cap and solved the problem.

You can always remove it for the flush.... If you're talking about the thermostat. The hearer valve is controlled by a cable to the inside, if I'm reading you right.

Nope... Just the garden hose while running. When the water runs clear, most of the chemicals are out. P.S. Drain the old A/F first, less mess.

Don't forget to get the correct pinion as well.

I know how you feel..... I bought Montelishi to have fun with and drive. It was funny to watch the "purest" crowd pack up and run at the first sign of rain clouds.

ROFLMAO !!! He said that the previous owner was a stickler for original part.... But no backstory on why an original "Z" has a 383 "stroker" engine in it. Thanks for letting me know.

If you still have the quadrajet, there's one built into the carb body..... Anything else is aftermarket.

I was at a local "old car" get together the other night and got talking to a '69 Z owner. He commented that my center caps were reproductions because they didn't have the black bow tie logo on them.... I wasn't aware that only originals had the bow tie..... Is that true ??

A good flush and a new thermostat may be in the cards too....