monte70car

Your almost there Bill. I'm going to use the double side tape to hold my just in case something happens. Currently it has the two stud clips at the ends holding it on and the fuel outlet in the center.

Went up the Carlisle this morning to see what we could find. First thing that caught my eye was a 71 Monte the was going to be for sale. Green and tan interior probably was a 350 car but no options. There was a silver 72 for sale didn't walk by to see the price but was probably $14k and then there was a lime green 71 small block Monte for $16,500. Saw a pair of original Monte quarter panels for $1,500. For me I brought some wheel well trim for the 72 looks good with that big old tire got to do some work to get to fit little body work in this area

the 5500 was for the LS5 motors but it would also be correct for a 402 as well. I have seen one build sheet for an SS car that had a 5000 red line.

I have a 70 that was an A//C car it has the long style. I also have a 72 that was A/C with short. Both cars came from the Maryland plant.

I agree with Steve with the accessories. I know my with drain the battery with the aftermarket radio and gauges as it always pulls power for the memory. If you have an aftermarket dash clock it will drain the battery as it's always running.

Well did a little plumbing work and run more wires. I don't know which one has more wires in it this one of my 70.

Come one bill just cut it out and tub it

Add a picnic table to my trunk lid. looks pretty nice pain to get to some of the nuts to hold it on.

The 72 Monte is taken a different route other then a little street toy. and its back on the ground

Dito the rear tray is a three piece kit from NPD for a 70-72 Chevelle. In the center is a third brake light. It's all plastic which was paint dark saddle to match the rest of the interior. From a distance the high mounted speaker look like rear seat head rest. As for the kick panels they are custom auto sound panels stuff with Pioneer 160 watt speakers that I picked up for $180 (those are for a non-air car).

I was thinking the plastic tri-angel piece that bolts on.

Here is whats in my flea market find 4" speakers, The JBL speakers Then I updated the kick panel to 6.5" speakers 6x9 in the back deck and then there is 2 10" subs pointed to the back seat and if your wondering that box was brought from Best Buys for a Dodge Ram pick up, it fits that area like it was designed to go there. Some where I have a video of the radio playing.

Look at your current tank that will tell you what you need as a replacement.

So Matt on my 4x6 in the dash I have them mounted by a clip in the stock location. on the magnet by where the AMP gauge is I wrapped the magnet with black elec tape.

Last thing done on my was foam for the sail panels got but not glue down. Just submitted an order with S&W race cars for some dress up parts lol. Got some wheelie bars order and a wing to go on the trunk lid just for looks.

With the one wire its just a hot wire from the battery to the connection on the back of the alt. You can make them a three wire alt by pulling a black plug out and make the connection under the plug.

Murphy this is what I found EDB-30140. 30 spline but that's off of Ebay so it might not be a true statement.

II know the ones around me can put it in an aerosol can.

Paul are you trying to match the seat back? If so a good paint supply shop should be able match the seat back or at least get it close.

Jerry welcome, to answer your question it would be black from the factory with the outside paint carried to the edge of the hood where it sits against the fender. Once the under side of the hood is paint and you put the sound or heat pad back on the hood no one would know if it's body color or black.

Mackenzie here is what the upper control arm looks like when the picture was taken it had Hotchiks lowering springs on the front with QA1 gas shocks. The link you see attached to the lower arm in the picture is the sway bar mount which is adjustable.

Matt classic bowtie is a good place to shop that's where my coil over shock bodies came from. They just had a set of front coil over bodies on sale again but I believe they sold Viking: 2- A225 front coilover shocks: $195 ea scuffs on T bar, 2- 10TP450 450# 10” spring $55 ea light scuff on bottom, 2- 10TP550 550# 10” spring $55 ea light scuff on bottom. I would give Matt classic a call 1-866-628-8746. My brown Monte is setting on stock control arms with Hotchkis lowering springs and KYB shocks and a 26" tall tire front and back. The primer Monte has the Speedway control arms http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1964-72-GM-A-Body-Chevelle-Tubular-Control-Arms,81680.html Again the reviews say to replace the ball joints with MOOG brand. The control arms are built heavy grease fittings for each joint even for the lower bolt. The control arms that Speedway sells are a close match to UMI's control arms just a different color. UMI does give club members a discount not much think its 5 or 10%. If your building something to handle a good set of lowering springs would be a good way to go and fairly cheap $500 for front and rear springs then get some good shocks so where in the $125 range. The brown Monte rides good even on a bumpy road but the primer one should do a little bit better with coil over front and back (I have the same amount of money tied up in my the primer one as I do the brown one).

First off Mackenzie welcome to the forum. What is the goal for your car? The Hotchkis lowering springs is a nice way to go. Some times you can get lucky and find Viking coil overs for the front for $225 each. There is a few on here that have installed the Viking coil overs front and back and really like the outcome. As for the control arms you can pickup all from for less then $500 just change out the ball joints as they have failed. I went with a seat of tubular a-arms from Speedway motors and added Viking coil overs to the front with a 550# spring (street car with a big block). I have two Monte's a 70 which is mostly stock running on Hotchiks lowering springs and KYB gas shocks and a 72 that's no were close to stock other then the sheet metal, it run Viking coil overs on the front and a race coil over on the rear.

So last year I started work on making my own sail panels to replace the ones that came in my suede headliner kit. I had so extra 1/2" foam padding so I used the new sail panels as a template and cut the foam out. Now the question is use the foam under the suede or just glue the suede to the sail panels? and an original sail panel that the new ones were made from

I though I had a measurement from when I did my two years ago but I don't just the picture of the buttons in place. I used a chalk line to get a straight line.