ripleydale

You will love having lower gears. 3.42 is popular as a compromise. I put an Eaton posi in mine and it all seemed reasonably priced to me. You will still have your old carrier and gears so you haven't lost any value. Just made it easier to melt some rubber.

After mutilating some control arms removing and installing bushings, I found a great simple tool from Ridetech they call Bushing Installation Remval Tool, part number 85000009. It's $100 but removes and installs pretty easily. Lower ball joints remove easily with tool from your local parts place and the uppers are just some time and effort to remove the original rivets (quite a few posts on that process). Make sure you look the control arms over carefully so you don't spend time on something that is worn or cracked.

Nice write up Dennis. It takes a lot of time to stop and take all those photos, and then do a write up and post it all. Much appreciated.

I did the base and it turned out great. A lot easier than the Camaro. Odd when something is easier than expected.

Thanks for the confirmation Dan (real red). I was pretty sure the seat I took apart was original and there wasn't anything there either.

Attempting to recover my 71 buckets. I've done a set of old Camaro seats and familiar with the listing rod that slides into a channel on the bottom of the seat cover, and then you hog ring around the rod, punch through the foam to another rod or the springs below. I don't see any place on the new cover or the old one where that would have gone. Do Monte seats just lay there? Seems like something should pull it down a bit. Watched a video on some Chevelle buckets and can see that being done. Has anyone run across this?

I've never had issues with my poly bushings (5 years old now). Some tubular control arms mimick stock setup so no advantage. Others are setup to improve the steering. Might be nice to have through the corners.

Here you go Tony. I don't really have a great side shot of before since I really didn't like looking at that angle. The rims are different but the tire sizes are the same, 275/60/15 on the back and 255/60/15 on the front. I wouldn't mind the front end lower, and if I change tires I might think of chopping more off.

The price on those parts looks pretty good, especially if it's local. Tunnel fit will be a problem. Not sure where your shifter will end up. You'll need to sort out your drive-shaft and u-joints, clutch pedal and linkage including fabricating your Z bar bracket. You won't like the 2.73's, that's for sure. I went with 3.42 on my 5 speed. In hind sight, I might have gone with 3.73.

Cut half a coil and it dropped about an inch on each side. I think any lower and I'd have tire clearance problems (255/60/15). It has lost the scared cat look.

I bought springs for my 402 A/C car and then went and dropped the A/C, put on an aluminum intake and headers, and as a result, the front end sat high. It never settled and it's been a few years and some decent miles. So I decided I would try and cut the coils since I hated the stance. I've removed the springs and was thinking of starting with half a coil (after consultation with Darren Bull). I happen to have an original set of springs from my SS with A/C along with a set of replacements that someone had put in. He mentioned that it didn't make a difference and he felt I could put the old SS springs back if I wanted. The replacement springs I bought are much thicker and have a shorter relaxed length than the original SS and the other guys replacements. Any similar experience? I wish I could remember who I bought the springs from (some bigger monte vendor from the US). DO you think my replacements are the wrong springs? I didn't feel it was an issue when I drove it, just didn't like the stance.

Had a similar problem in my camaro. Turned out the float level was too low so if I got on it enough, I'd eventually starve for fuel.

Seems like a pretty mean cam shaft. How high do you plan on revving it? Not sure if you've told us the HP and torque you're expecting.

The ultimate post on dash removal by Patrick. No need to try and figure out a single thing as it's all done for you. http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/10388-remove-and-replace-dash/?hl=+dash%20+removal

If you have the skills to modify a frame, then party on. I'd look for some monte in a boneyard and check out the frame..

I might be tempted to siphon out the old gas, fill it up with new and see what happens. Put a clear external filter in front of the carb and see if any stuff starts showing up. Gunk running through your fuel pump won't do it any favors if there is something there, but you should be able to figure it out pretty quickly with the filter. Some guys put a filter before the fuel pump, but they aren't really designed to work that way. I had a similar scenario and ended up with this weird sand like substance I assume was stuff drying on the inside of the tank and falling in. Ended up getting it cleaned out and sealed. It would be nice if you didn't have to go through that work and expense.

I've never known so many Montes in pieces. I was counting on Darren to help guide me through my own restoration. I guess I'm going to have to send him a Christmas present or something. We all must do whatever we can to make Kris mobile again, and I'll take whatever credit I can get. Party on boys.

She's a beauty. Buckets and console are nice options to have.

Looking good Joe. You're almost at ground zero. As I start pulling things apart in my own 71 SS deconstruction and build, I am realizing how much work/money is involved to restore one of these cars nicely (say to the Vaughn standard). You start to scrutinize every part and some of them you realize just aren't going to look good enough on a restored car. Decisions, decisions!

Here's a picture of the VIN stamp on the turbo 400 from my 1971 monte.

Glad you're back home in one piece Kevin.

It can be done. The biggest problem is breaking the bolts free from the cage nuts without snapping them off. If they break off, you have to go digging for the cage nuts through the body. As suggested, one side at a time. I used various little 2x4's to lift up on the body and provide support. I moved them along as I went. Breaking the nuts on the two firewall mounts (each side) definitely seemed like a two man job. Someone has to hold that nut and it's not exactly easy to jam a wrench in there. I spoke about it a bit in a build post I had, and there are some pictures of the cage nut. http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6978-minni-monte/?hl=%2Bminni+%2Bmonte

I think the 3.73 might be a little steep if you're highway/freeway driving. I have 3.42's in my car with a 5 speed. My transmission has a 3.37 first gear so even with the 3.42 rear I have to come out of it pretty quick. You might not have as much launch with a Muncie or whatever else you might have in there. I remember putting a 4 speed in an old Monte I had with 2.73's. I loved it on the highway when you could punch down into 3rd and just blast by everybody. But you're right, there was a lot of clutch slipping for a smooth takeaway.

This cast iron cylinder head is an OE-quality service replacement for all pre-1986 small block Chevy engines. It's the same head used on the Chevrolet Performance 350/290HP Engine 809-12499529 and the GM Goodwrench 350/260HP Engine 809-10067353. That was from Jegg's. Seems very easy to buy them new, so I'd say they be a great choice for a 300 hp motor.

The 245's will fit easy on the 15x7's. I had 275/60/15's on a set of 15x7's that fit nicely under my 71.