zmanabba

I got all of my hoses at NAPA I would walk in to the store if I were you. Some of the older parts might not be in the online system. The guy actually had to look mine up in a book. Of course that was about 4 years ago so things might have changed. I would stay away from a chevy dealer for the older stuff. In my experience they don't like to keep inventory. If it helps I was able to use the same hoses for small block or big block. That is unless my CRS has kicked in lol. David

The best solution will be a bit spendy but you will never have to worry about it again. I ordered a dip stick/tube combo from TCI via JEGS that had the new style seal that is cone shaped instead of an o-ring. You cannot use an old style tube with the new style seal the tube diameter is too large. If I remember correctly it was around 45.00. You can also get the new style from a GM dealer but it might not be available. I am not sure what the cost would be from JEGS or SUMMIT to Canada. Or I have heard of some guys using two of the O-rings on the old style tube. My advise is to grit your teeth and spend the money to upgrade and enjoy your car lol. David

I have run in to this with my 70 and it ended up being the wiper motor. David

I would prefer the Bend location also I did attend the Cache Valley Cruise one year(2007)and it was very well run and Logan Utah is a beautiful town. However it is a 13 hour drive for me and I am already attending the 2014 Hot August Nights in Reno (my Mom lives there) which is also a 13 hour drive. Not sure I could pull off 2 road trips like that lol. David P.S. since I brought up Reno hmmmm

In the middle of a weekend swap of one 454 to another slightly faster 454.I should just put Velcro on my motor mounts lol. Royce sorry about your BS (and I mean it in all ways lol ) problems. I hope you can get it out of paint jail. David

I have the same Magnaflow except in 2.5 inlet/outlet the sound mellow at idle or driving sane but really bellow when you get on it (at a track of course never on the street ;D). They will sound really quiet when you first get them but will break in and get louder after about 6 months of normal driving. David

That's a great score Rodney. It's deals like that that we all hope for. David

I used a Jegs brand coolant recovery/overflow bottle on mine. Got it in black and mounted it by the battery so it blends in to the inner fenderwell. At the time I think it was 18.99. David

Used it to drive over to Idaho to buy a truck (1977 chevy 4x4 short bed) to use as my winter ride. Then used it to tow home the truck when it died ( charging system ) lol. David

Another thing it could be is a seized stator in the torque converter not alowing slippage while idleing. But check the other sugestions first. Hopefully I am wrong. David

I agree with all of the above. As far as a shifter I have a B&M Quicksilver I have used since 1984 still works flawlessly and I still love playing with it. David

Great deal. I have a couple of sets I am still running. Small block and big block. David

You might want to google 65 impala engine compartment for one idea. The factory had a recall. I am not sure if they are available as a reproduction and I have never seen one in a junkyard but the idea is pretty simple and works. One other thing I have heard of is putting a solid motor mount on the drivers side. It keeps the engine compartment a little cleaner. I have never done it so I can't say how it affects vibration. David

That's what I get before posting just before I go to bed lol. I forgot about the dipstick change. I also agree with buying a new one. Think of it as paying for your time/labor on clean up. David

The Monte's have a lot of room. I was able to put a 454 in mine with the truck style oil pan. The Chevelle is not able to do the same. I seem to remember that all small block pans are the same except for the 64-67 Chevy II's that are a front sump. Good hunting in the yard. David

Unfortunatly the two series posi is no longer made new. The last one I bought used was about 10 years ago and I paid 200.00 for it in good condition. Too bad I am not in a position to buy a three series (it will be about a year). I will be willing to sell the two series I have in mine at that time. I will be going to 3.31 gears. I just read Thanh's post and the powertrax is a good option also it is a little more money but there is no resetting of lash and bearing preload. It dependson how quick you are wanting to do the swap. PM me if you want to talk price. David

I have a DUI HEI that is on its 3rd engine (SB 400 and 2 BB 454's). The 400 just got worn out and the 454's were swapped for different combinations. All told it has over 100k miles and still going strong. Very good product and good service. The only gripe I have is that their BB plug wires don't come in 135 degree boots. David P.S. just before I hit the send button I remembered I did have to change a module at around 80 to 90k miles.

One thing that antifreeze does is lubricate the water pump seals. If you want to run straight water then the life may be shortened. If you run water wetter I believe it has the necessary additives to lube the seals. Water wetter also will have an anti-corrosion additive. Having said that I personaly wouldn't bother with draining your current fluid if everything else is in good shape you should have no cooling problems. I tried the water wetter/water combo one year in preperation for a trip to Hot August Nights in Reno one year in my 1967 Firebird with a Pontiac 400 and saw about a 5 degree on average drop in temps. David

X2 on the longer bolt. But there is no shame if you have to go heli-coil. The only snag might be clearance to get a drill in straight. You might need to use a right-angle drill motor. I would try the longer bolt first. definatly the cheaper route. Good luck David

When you go full lock the pump will top out its pressure so you don't want to do that for very long-very hard on the pump. When you have to make a hard turn it's always best to back off a bit untill you no longer feel the pump straining. Having said all of that the belt is probably slipping and needs to be tightened. David

Jegs or summit make a braided nylon hose that should work well. It is even NHRA legal. 3/8 is the stock size. I would use addel clamps to mount it. The stock clips might chafe. Whatever do not use rubber fuel line. years down the road you might get a fuel leak and fire is on of my gratest fears. Rubber is fine for short lenghts but not the whole car. ny .02 David

Dennis or anyone else that has to remove the pulley, I have had good luck over the years using a 2 jawed puller that is sold as a battery cable puller. It pulls the cable end off of the top mount style of battery. So far it has gotten me through 3 different GM old style power steering pump replacements (2 chevy and a pontiac). Look for it in the battery section of the parts store. David

I have dealt with Tom's Differentials before. and I seem to remember he has his own style of heat trating the gears. Might be worth a call 208-265-8111 email diffdude@gmail.com. It would be cool if you could keep you 12-bolt. Even though the 9 does have it's advantages, David

Depending on what you are wanting to do check out ebay or cl for a Performer intake. The ports are perfect for the pp heads. I am running a 1967 cast iron intake right now and it seems to do fairly well but i have a Performer I got off of ebay for 96.00 including shipping. But I am doing a little experiment to see how far I can take the pp heads. David

From what I remember you don't lose horsepower so much as you lose torque. The only time I ran mid-length was when I had the 400 small block in my 70. I switched from manofolds so there was a difference according to the seat dyno lol. But I went to a 454 years later with full length and there was a definate difference. However I don't think that was due to the headers only lol. If you can afford it or are ready to put up with any potential hassles (I am not sure there will really be any). Then I would get the full lenght. David