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Winston Wolf

(Non-dues paying)
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Everything posted by Winston Wolf

  1. I don't know if I can buy the fast for less money stuff.....I guess it depends on one's definition of fast.
  2. I have original paint. The trunk sticker and door stickers are still there, PM me if you need pictures of locations.
  3. For that price it should come with a nitrous plate and a bottle....
  4. Sounds like big inches,big problems,big checkbook....
  5. Done and done. I'll light it up tomorrow after the silicone has cured. Still a bit dusty after sitting all winter, but you get the idea. Looks like a nice little sleeper smallblock. Nothing fancy, in fact if my stock valve covers would fit, I would be running them. If this works as expected, I will probably have an RPM Air-gap for sale. But not until after I get it on the dyno.
  6. Fuel Pump This has some info and a links to more pics. I'm sure electric would be fine, I just like the stockish look and don't care for the noise. For a long time I ran a stock pump and used an electric to "supercharge" it. I really only turned the electric on when I was racing. If you look at the design of the stock pump, you will see it works perfect for that type of setup. Its flow is limited by suction, so electric will blow fuel right through it. Worked very well.
  7. Here you can see the difference between the RPM Air-Gap and the Super Victor height wise. The way I will be running is with this 3/8" Edelbrock gasket. It is pretty much the same height as the RPM with the 1" spacer. Without the spacers though, the Super is indeed taller. Here you can see the difference in intakes. Below that, you will notice how much larger the plenum is vs what the Airgap has. It is showing the gasket for the new intake. I still have to enlarge my TV/throttle cable bracket to match the intake, but then it should be good to go. I did have to make a little bracket to hold the coil, as this intake has no mounting holes on it. I'll put up the final product when I finish it this weekend. Then wait for the snow to melt and get it on the rollers.
  8. Finished up the intake. Turned out ok I hope. I wanted it painted to attract less attention. Below you can see the plenum work and how the runners turned out. I did add a port at the front for the PCV valve.
  9. Winston Wolf

    TROUBLE

    Where is the bearing? Was is not contacting the block when you installed the cam?
  10. I've learned alot over the last couple years. Buy once, cry once. Here's the top of the pile in case you wanted to know. CK Performance
  11. If you weren't in CA, I have a fresh one sitting in my garage. It's not the trans itself that matters in those 200-4r, it's the valve body you end up using and what's been done to it.
  12. You better go at least 3.73 if you plan on getting that engine in the 13's....
  13. I'm going to use the same 950 HP I bought last summer. It's more of a single plane vs dual plane debate for me. I guess we will find out.
  14. I think it will work just fine. I would run it. Doubt you would even notice the difference between a 2800 and a 2500. You should have plenty of torque. The good, high stall 200-4r converters with heavy duty multi disc clutches run $1000.
  15. Well, after a few months off, I decided to get working on my intake. I spent the weekend behind the carbides. The runners are now matched to a larger 1206 gasket and blended in nice. I really raised the roofs of the runners where they come into the plenum. Really opened up the intake. I can see why guys like Speier and Dr J charge $1000 for thier ported Super Victors. It is honestly a lot of work. Big improvement over stock. Still have a little clean up to do, then a fresh coat of orange for stealth and get it on the engine. Plan is to go back on the dyno as soon as the snow melts to see how it affected my power curve with no other changes. I'm putting the Air-Gap vs Super Victor debate to bed. Here it is so far.
  16. My cousin has a 68 GTO. 455 Pontiac that he shifts at 5500. Engine dyno'd at 505 HP. Chassis dyno'd at 418 HP, so about 18% loss. He has a turbo 400 with 4.10 gears, 3500 stall. It runs 11.50 at 115 every single pass. I would guess the weight of the car around 3600 as he has a glass hood. Proves that with enough torque, you can get it done. I think 580 HP is more than you need unless the car is a tank.
  17. For that setup, i would run an electric choked Edelbrock Performer series. Easiest to tune, best starting, and will run like a top. They are a mechanical secondary carb but use a vacuum flapper to ease in the secondries.
  18. You go get 'em tiger. I'll just keep shoveling snow.
  19. Is there a reason that you can't just stick with 1-5/8"??
  20. Eventually it will fill the breather with oil and leak, especially if you drive it more than a 1/4 mile at a time. I'm not going to start a debate on why they should be used on every street car, but since you are already planning to use one, I wanted you to have this info. Here is what I posted on another forum in regards to the proper one to use. I got mine at Napa. Use one of these below, as they are designed for lower vaccum applications such as yours and mine. "The one I am using has the number 2057 on it The other one that worked is a has ACC9216 and 0298216 stamped on it. I know when i went to Napa, I asked for the on for an 1970 LT1 350hp/350 Camaro and the other one was from a 67 427 Solid Cam Corvette. I believe they cross to these numbers: AC-736-C and A/C-Delco CV-746-C (PV-746C by Fram) They guy at the counter can cross check them."
  21. Might want to consider a PCV system instead of 2 breathers. They will smoke and leak oil if you don't. It also helps keep the gaskets from leaking. I switched to one last year, and it makes an unbelievable difference.
  22. The best 2 heads for the money that don't need additional porting and are good for big HP are AFR and Profiler. Back when you were in high school, double hump heads may have been pretty decent. Now, they don't hold a candle to anything in a Summit catalog. I personally would not waste any money on "Vortec" heads either. I have never actually seen a car with them on that made any real power. Plus no reason to use iron heads. Alot of guys run Dart or Brodix, but they do a bunch of port work to them. The Trick Flow's I took off my car got me to 12.0's out of the box. (I still have them in the garage) What horsepower do you want to get out of them and what is your budget, those are the 2 most important things and you didn't mention either.
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