Murphy

I had cut about 3/4 of a coil on my original small block springs and got almost one inch drop.

Hey Dennis, stock rear end is 2.73 gear ratio, non-posi. Most likely will be upgrading to 3.42 gears with a series-3 posi by Yukon.

Scott, which tranny is this mating to? I was researching the other day on the GV site for the unit that marries up to my M20...........Very enticing!

I have to say "WHY" Drew............I had the same plans a couple years ago but was uncertain about pulling the motor and/or tranny also. So I went about it another way, removed the hood, inner wheel wells, exhaust system and holy smokes........there's enough room for a small family! I also pulled the distributor, battery, alternator, and radiator after a few weekends and a bunch of new parts, you can see the transformation. I cleaned & painted everything!

Drew, I shopped for almost a year before I bought my M20, I paid $400 with a flywheel. I knew it needed a rebuild, and I had it completely gone through for about $450. With that said, I now knew what I had for $850. I've know guys who paid close to a grand and ended up getting repairs done due to leaky seals or noisy synchros and spending another 3 or 400............Bottom line is be careful, a $1000 Muncie is quite often a very fair price if you have a guarentee of its condition!

If you search for 'coil spring spacers' on Summit's websight, you'll find the SPC items which I have (SPC-1627). I added the 1" spacer to the rears to help the sagging cargo coils that are 25 yrs old. They fit very well over the lower saddle and the coils mounted on top of them..........

Hey Big Al, here's a low cost option for you. I bought generic overflow tank at O'Rielly's Auto Parts and piece of aluminum strap at Home Depot. Making a few bends and drilling a few holes in the strap and a quick coat of black paint the tank mounts right up in a location that is completely out of the way.....

You don't always need a console.............

Brent, the link here has great info for determining driven gears and color combinations.... http://chevelleengineer.home.comcast.net/~chevelleengineer/speedo.htm You really should pull your driven gear to verify the color so you know which gear you need to order.

Hookers here also, painted with Eastwoods high-temp paint (2 coats) 2yrs and they look great..........

I wish Dennis would clean his tires before posting pics, there's a spec of dirt in the 2nd photo...........

I totally agree with Sam, you need to have some play there for the drive shaft to move in & out as the rear axle moves slightly from bumps in the road. It's not that expensive to have the drive shortened and rebalanced, put some new u-joints in also...............

Your using the same lower control arms that U removed, how far off are you?

Is that driven gear the right length? It looks short to me?? Also, the speedo cable doesn't have any sharp bends in it, right.........

That doesn't look like the OEM bracket that I removed, it's much too long........

No parts left as I sold it all........... Not the car, just the mirror and mounts.

Don't cut the headliner! Here's a pic after I removed the original mirror and prep to install a glass mounted style. You'll see 3 screw holes where the mirror mounts and then the section of molding I had to install.

I would think that replacing the sending unit in the block would be a fairly inexpensive test, plus it would give you more information on the accuracy of the gauge. Just my thought process...........

I knew you'd come around............

Thanks Robert, that's what I was thinking..........

Hey Robert, when you purchased the new amp gauge did it come with the mounting plate? I see several vendors are showing the amp gauge without the mounting plate?????? Is the 'GEN' light mounting plate correct for mounting the amp gauge?

All right! I might be able to attend an event in this country!

I had a similar problem last summer and had to replace the expansion valve to resolve the issue. It was a cheap fix from NAPA ...........

Nice pics............

Look at the back of the block near the firewall, below the drivers side head...........