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I have seen a few that have cut the front spring one turn to lower it and raise the rear. I don't recommend that but has been done and does the desired effect. The other you mentioned is stiffer springs or HELPER spring in the rear to get just a bit more height. The other way to do it is to use block to raise the shackle in the rear. They sell them for this purpose. I would not go more then maybe 1 or 1 1/2 inches so it does not change the geometry much of the drive shaft to strain the universals. Similar to what JEEP and 4x4 guys have done but at a much LESS drastic increase. To high and looks like the [censored] is way up in the air!!! not a good look for these cars IMO. Hope that helps others will be along to suggest other solutions possibly or links to where you can get these. Regards Scott

Only BA9 that is in there is the one in the glove box light (if equipped) other then that the dash are all 168 (original number which is the same as 194 style but different wattage).. On a 70 even if you put in RED or GREEN etc likely would shine GREEN with the Florescent green paint they used. I have LED's in mine as well and they are quite bright (but I paid ..well nothing..LOL) and look awesome at night time..I can SEE my gauges..LOL..just have to put them in my under dash gauges for the FULL EFFECT. The dome overhead I am working on putting in a RING OF LED to replace that one as it will also give MORE LIGHT and including ones under the DASH. Oh projects projects when will it end Scott

Yes which side it is on I don't think it a big deal, as I bet if you took a POLE of all those who HAD one from FACTORY you would find it is in both places or likely. In any event you have a yellow one now so that's good. If you don't I do have one and from what I've seen they are all the same (well except the 70 which apparently was green??). That is a MOD I'd like to do sometime as well. Just have to get this winter foolishness over so I can take back my garage and get to work!!!! And boot the extra CRAP that has found it's way in there from late fall.... I need a 3 car garagE!!! but don't we all!!!! Scott

My problem is mine is Black Cherry, so do I pick black or red? Now don't beat me up asking this question or my answer will be BLACK N BLUE Guess I will default to RED as closest one... And right now we have a TIE...I see interesting...

Funny I saw the pictures of Bruce's and then the description about being green in 1970 as I have a YELLOW one from early 80's (same button) in my stash that I would put in when I find a trunk release for. Not that I care about which colour it is, but interesting they changed colour? As for putting in the glove box, makes sense so you can leave the doors open and the glove box locked so no one can open the trunk when at a car show and can still show the car and leave valuables in the trunk. Always a drag when owners LOCK it up and roll up the windows so you can't look inside and I don't peer in windows as it PO'd me when found finger prints or palm prints on mine.... For ease of operation from the driver seat you may want to put it on the other side (where the light is) so you can reach it better...just my .02 may not be EXACTLY factory location but close enough no one will notice or say anything.... Scott

It if is a question mark and not a red X then try to right click or click on it and see if you can get a message saying Download pictures. This is a security setting in some systems to prevent pictures that could have hidden content from being released. It likely is in your security settings and an update done on your browser. Try going to the site using a different browser (there should be a few for Android devices) and see if it works for you which will let you know it is a security setting change. Hope that helps. Regards Scott

Hey now you can sell it on e-bay as an original build sheet with PHOTO documented PROOF of authenticity Great find, thanks for sharing. Does this mean your car is now worth THOUSANDS MORE Good fortune smiles on you this day indeed...congrats. Scott

Yes never drive it in rain, don't spray water on the top to let it sit. Seriously I think if it is well sealed with an epoxy primer and then painted and it is dried and not left to sit and stay WET for long periods there would be much less chance of that happening. There are all kinds of corrosion proofing methods, but if there is any rust at all it seems to find a way..but if SEALED it can't get oxygen so cannot spread. Maybe others have tried things like POR or ?? but vinyl tops have been an issue for a long time with holding moisture and rusting.

Nice build up and very nice colour. The rims are chrome and look sharp I am thinking of trying to find a set as they do make them look even DEEPER Scott

That is the one just below the Mig Pak 10 and if it can do both shielded gas and flux core not a bad unit and comes with the regulator. For new not a bad buy really and you have the warranty with it and compact and ability to use it anywhere you have a good 15-20 Amp 115 V outlet. You maybe able to find one similar used for even less!!!! Just throw away that silly shield and get a good auto darkening helmet for it. They do sell them at Harbour Freight for a decent price (if you have one in the area) they all now normally have solar panel for recharging the LCD lens. Oh and one other thing make sure the grounding clamp has copper ends on the contacts or replace it with a better one (this is one area I found them to be lacking in the cheaper low end units sold) If you find one that can do up to 1/4 inch you will have more flexibility out of it as well and not be looking for a larger machine to do some slightly larger heavier gauge work. Scott

Well other question is WHAT will you be using it for? Just doing the body work on this? Not sure? Then may I suggest you look on Craigs list or ?? in your area for say a Lincoln or ?? small Mig welder first. I have a Mig Pak 10 and it is a great little unit It will weld up to 1/4" and has fittings to connect from Flux core to Mig with a set of gauges and a bottle (you can get a smaller C25 bottle for gas and not the big ones for portability and save on $$ Besides you can plug them into 110V, if working outside with flux core and will be able to dial it down to do very thin sheet welding. And 2 things, the Mig Pak 10 models were the last built BY LINCOLN HERE (or the small portable jobs) and has cooper windings not aluminum like a lot of newer ones...so longevity. And there inexpensive. If you do the car and never touch it again well not much invested and Lincoln will always have a resale value (for example) and has support and consumables available that will work 100% guaranteed from a lot of sources. Just my .02 so you don't have to buy NEW to get a decent welder and do what your after and find out if you REALLY like it or if it's a passing fad. Scott

Oh crapola.......I may not be able to make it that is a LONG WEEKEND... Will have to wait to be committed ..er commit to that date... Larry I know what your thinking now stop it!!!! But a long weekend maybe better for everyone else!!! Scott

Not the exact same but same principle and about the same location, technique would be better using your FOOT in some cases but here is a Video to help Not exact but you get the idea. Scott

You too start singing the theme from the Lion King and I am not coming........ Just sayin Scott

Hey I'd be up for that if timing is right. Not sure about driving the Monte up there but we will see. I know Larry (Lost N Found) is also eager to attend, and a few others maybe from around these parts would go...do a ROAD TRIP perhaps. Great idea!!! If you plan it they will come And thanks in advance for organizing it not an easy task....as a friend of mine said for these types of things...like HERDING CATS!!!! Scott

Good point I do have an air Dryer (large tube mount to a wall) and will be using that for my air. I will also use it to do some painting once I get it set up for this. I do know without an Air Dryer it will clog easily especially in cold/warm cycles like my garage will have in winter. I think Tractor Supply and Harbour Freight/Princess Auto all get them from the same source, maybe the cabinet colour is different is all. Scott

Me too if I am being honest

Sam That sand blast cabinet you have is it a bench top model (it looks like it) I think I have about the same size got from Princess Auto (Harbour Freight of the North) if so how do you like it (and obviously use yours a bit). What air dryer setup do you run? I have all the pieces just need the WILL (and health from this DAMN FLU) to finish getting it all plumbed. Your pics do inspire that eventuality, so thanks Any advice or setup opinions welcome. Hijack OVER!!!! Thanks Scott

From what others have noted and have posted everything front of the firewall is different. The fenders rad support etc all were unique to the 70 so while it CAN be done it is not simply put on a new grille and bumper. But some may have already done it and chime in here. Scott

I would have thought so too but mine don't stick down too far and are tucked up pretty well whomever put them on did a decent job so they don't drag on driveways or inclines. But I have seen what your talking about if you don't design and mount the back parts right. Scott

+1 on the long tube headers they do fit and easier to get at to mount or remove (if needed). I have the Mr Gasket (older) which were Black Jack headers I think really, very similar to the ones shown in the picture. They fit well and do have a thicker flange. With everything IN on the car on the drivers side it is easier to get them IN up from the bottom and from the top on the passenger side due to the starter, at least mine are. FWIW. Scott

Rodney I would try and get the dimensions of the original and then look in the wreckers for one from a Chevelle etc. Very likely that you can find one if not exact one that is close and modify it to match/fit. Or check Jared or others who may have one. Since you should be able to find one I would not spend the time/effort on remaking your own unless you can just fix it with a small patch. Depends on how bad it is. Good luck Scott

The problem with both of these is there a caustic substance and not bio-degradable like the Rescue Metal and the Soak out Rust that we have been posting about. In both cases you COULD (and I would not) just pour it down the drain with no ILL effects. It attacks rust chemically AND puts protective coating on it that you can paint right over. The problem with the RUST JELLY etc is it is corrosive to other things (and your hands) AND is hard to deal with the WASTE by product. For a frame etc where you can not SOAK it, I would use something like the RUST CHECK spray that converts the surface RUST layer to a paintable surface which stops the rust from getting oxygen and therefore starves it so can't spread. Then a good sealer and rust spray (POR 15) and should be good to go. So my only concern with the RUST JELLY is it's caustic effects in an enclosed space (like a heated garage in winter). And all you need is a plastic container put in this stuff, wait, remove the part and put it in water for a few seconds to stop the process and then dip in solution and let air dry and it has a coating on it to protect it till you decide to paint it or clear if it's to be left metal look. And a bottle can go a long way and can be re-used a few times till it goes BLACK, then dilute with water and you COULD pour it down the drain....much safer and easier....JMO. Scott

You can get a similar product that from what I see works about the same. It is called SOAK OUT RUST or something like that.? It comes in a large brown bottle found in the Automotive section with the other RUST removal products here in Canada at Canadian Tire (where else...) but likely could find it elsewhere. I have a bottle in the garage can get it and snap a pic soon. It is about 9.00 for a bottle and you can mix it 50/50 if you need to but they suggest for heavy rust to use it straight. Does work only thing must be in WARM area, so up here or where it is COLD need to have it at about room temperature for it to work right. Does work IMO...used it for some small parts. Not sure if that Metal Rescue is available in Canada or not? or cost but this stuff is available here at your local CTC store for those N of the border. Scott