Mike Brichta

Thanks guys!! That is a big help. - what size socket do I need for the nut? - is it hard to break loose? Wheels on the ground? - are the threads normal or reverse? Thanks!

How hard is it to replace a leaking pinion seal on a 12-bolt rear? Does the rear cover and internals need to be removed or can it be done from the front? Is this kind of thing be left to a repair shop? I've read that the "car" seals can no longer be found and "truck" ones have to be used with modification. I'm sure someone out there must have done one. I have not. Thanks!! Mike

I guess my question would be, does it "wander" by itself when you are not moving the steering wheel while driving? If so, that would imply to me something other then the steering box and column. If you have to continuously move the steering wheel back and forth to keep the car straight while driving, then that would imply to me that the issue is play in the steering box. After seeing the list of everything that you already replaced, I suspect your issue is with the steering box. It is easy to find a used steering box to swap out if you want to keep it original looking. I believe the 72 years had a quicker turning ratio. However, if you want it to be tight and really responsive (like newer cars) then maybe you should consider replacing the factory steering box with a Borgeson unit. Money well spent if you plan to keep the car for a while and drive it worry free. I put one in my 72 Corvette and it steers like it is on rails. Good luck! Mike

Just be sure not to get the paint on anything but the channel and wear gloves. That paint is hard to remove later on from any unwanted areas. Also, some goggles. If any gets in your eyes you will be in the emergency room within hours. But that's a story for another day. Lol.

If it was me, I would do the following: - remove all old weatherstripping from the channel with narrow putty knife - use a small wire brush to remove any old rubber pieces, loose paint and rust from the channel - tape off the areas around the channel - apply POR-15 to the channel with a good quality paint brush - glue new weatherstripping into channel after paint dries (at least 24 hours) Good luck!

Lol. Yes I tend to get a little "shaky" when doing some of these projects because I don't want to mess them up. I also applied the Urethane to the channel instead of the glass in the past and just set the glass down on the Urethane. Never thought of applying it to the glass. I don't have suction cups that's why I didn't apply it to the glass. That stuff is kind of messy if you get it smudged or messed up while installing. Only want to do it once, right?

Thanks Joe! That is great info. I didn't realize before that the factory used foam dam tape. I've installed several windshields many years ago and just used the primer and Urethane to make the seal. I never had any leaking issues and thought it came out pretty nice. I will let you know if I decide to used the foam dam tape. Thanks for the offer! Mike

Thanks guys. That should give me enough info to get me started.

Getting ready to install a new windshield. Can anyone recommend a good urethane to use? Thanks!!

I believe the problem is that you are using the stock lower mounting bracket that is meant for stock manifolds and you are obviously now using headers. I believe you can purchase one meant for headers.

I purchased a new one from Ground Up a few months ago and after installing it, I realized that the new unit was bad. So I had to get another one and replace it all over again. I would strongly suggest that you bench test the new unit before installing it. YouTube videos tell you how to do it. Also, if you have another sending unit around that works, I would use it to test for sure that the existing unit is bad and not the gauge in the dash or some other wiring issue. Could save you lots of work chasing the wrong problem. Maybe you could borrow one that works from a buddy. I have a few around that I use for this type of thing. Hope that helps! Good luck. Mike

Sorry, I don't know of any at the moment. If I come across one I will let you know. Thanks!!

Is this the clamp that you are looking for? http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/ZAC-0174.html

Hey Rob, Thanks for the offer but I was able to expand your pictures and I have a pretty good idea of where yours is located. Thanks again for your help! Mike

Hey Rob, Thanks for your reply and pictures. I agree with you on the placement. I seem to remember them being on the inside around the 2 O'clock position. Nice pics, by the way. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Guys, Does anyone know where the expansion valve bulb should be placed on the suction tube on cars with AC? I am reading that it should be between 6 and 9 O'clock on the suction tube when facing the car from the front. I want to confirm before I install it. I seem to recall seeing them more around the 12 to 3 O'clock position. Thanks!! Mike

After a lot of looking around and talking to other people I am going with the assumption that all SB pulleys can be used on a BB engine, except the crank pulley. All of the brackets (AC, Alt, PS) are all different. I will let you know if I find out later that something is different. Thanks!!

I have always removed windshields and rear glass using a 1" putty knife and going around the inside of the glass little by little until the old seal is broken loose. Once glass is removed, the channel and glass have to be thoroughly cleaned and prepped. I then call my local glass installer and purchase glass sealer in a tube from him and put the urethane bead around the edge and press the glass back into place. I never had much luck trying to seal a leak without removing the glass. Good luck!

Hey guys, I need all (4) pulleys for a 396 BBC engine. Alternator, Power Steering (2 groove), Water Pump (long), Crank/Damper (3 groove for AC). I have all of these from a 350 SBC engine. Can any of the 350 pulleys be used on the 396 engine? If not, does anyone have any that they are willing to sell? Or know of a good source for them? Thanks!! Mike

I would be interested in seeing the video that shows this. Can you post the link? Thanks!!

Working too?? What the heck. Does anyone know if they are year specific? If so, what are the differences?

I was always able to fix my clocks by replacing the coil/points assembly. That keeps it original and you can still hear the "old style" click of the points solenoid. I think there are places out there that will do a "mechanical" repair for around $60. As others have already mentioned, quartz replacement is an option but more expensive. Good luck!! Mike

Sorry, no spares in the attic. Lol. Lots of places sell new ones. May have to purchase the console rear light also. Good luck!!

There are (2) different wiring harnesses that connect from the dash to the console. 1 - intermediate harness 2 - automatic console harness The 2 harnesses are connected by a rectangular plug (4x2). Not sure what you have. Maybe something custom made. Here are some pics.

That's exactly what they are. The neutral safety switch is in the console and is controlled by the shifter.