MC1970U Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 It’s been quite awhile since I have stopped into FGMCC. Have moved several, work related, times in the last year and just have not had much time. Need to upgrade the distributor and looking for experienced suggestions. I am looking to replace the old worn out stock distributor on my 70 with an HEI for everyday street driving. I have done this conversion in the past but it has been over 20 years. You guys and gals have any suggestions on distributors I should consider and what types of expectation I should have as well as any needed changes to the wiring, plugs, gap or any other considerations. The car has the stock 4V hypo 350 which I will be rebuilding at a later date but plan to keep as stock/unmodified as possible. A/C, power steering car. Currently looking at D.U.I. and Pertronix. Getting excited to get back to work on this car. In a couple months I plan on doing a complete interior kit. Thanks, MC1970U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 GM High Performance HEI(Jegs or Summit) is around 200.00. GM plug 8mm wires, plugs gapped at .040. Not sure what plug type but I'm sure someone will chime in. Just some suggestions. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudax Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 I have a DUI, and IMO, is the best one out there. Already curved for your application, high quality complete unit and you can bump your plugs to .050 gap. The thing is you seem to be talking staying stock and you can get cheaper distributors of very good quality that should work just fine for you. So, I guess you have to look at what you are willing to spend and what are you looking to do or get out of your engine. If I was going to stay stock I would probably find a nice quality one from Jegs or Summit. The GM ones are nice too but a little pricey. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 I just installed a DUI HEI I would recommend it too, very impressed so far if you do decide to get a DUI, order it directly from them , not Summit or whoever, that way they build it to your engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 On the cheap... under $80.00 for wires and distributor ready to go! EBAY I have this very same set-up on my daily driver..have used it now for over two years have not had any problems with it yet. Not even a module replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 I switched mine from points to Pertronix igniter. I havent had a problem with it its been in for 3 or 4 years now. When I switch it next time I thinking about complete Pertronix dist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far please keep them coming. The car is the wife's and while I plan on completely restoring it as original as possible the distributor is worn out and the points got to go so a quality HEI is needed. Kind of leaning towards D.U.I. as I like the fact that D.U.I. will set it up specifically for your car and that I can open the gap as large as possible on the plugs. I would imagine this would help with fuel efficiency? I am really happy with the way the car runs out right now and want to keep everything as stock as I can while doing a few tweaks and a quality build. The cap issue does not really bother me nor am I going to be showing the car. I want to put the best quality American made, when I can, components in the car. I have sold all our newer cars, they were just too frustrating to work on, and I am down to an 83 Elky and the 70 Monte. They are daily drivers and at this point I plan on going out, if you know what I mean, with them. Thanks again everyone as I know this topic has been somewhat covered it is still good to get some fresh opinions, MC1970U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 I have this very same set-up on my daily driver..have used it now for over two years have not had any problems with it yet. Not even a module replacement. You know I just remembered I put a set of those wires on my 96 Impala and if I remember correctly they were pretty decent. MC1970U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Just an FYI: I upgraded my Monte to a distributorless wasted-spark type ignition system. Also gives you the chance to program your own ignition maps... More info here: http://www.autosportlabs.net/Megajolt_Lite_Jr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Some questions. Trying to get me specs together so I can order the distributor. 1) What is the best way to confirm there is in fact a factory 300hp 350 in my car? I was told by the tech who I had rebuild the carb that this was the high output 350 but I wanted to know if there was a way to confirm this short of having the build, hope to find while working on the interior, sheet? Does the fact that it has a 4MV confirm the 300hp. The manual shows that the 350 with 4V as a 300hp motor and the carb as well as everything else looks pretty stock so I am thinking it is the original carb? 2) Am I correct that the Rochester 4MV is a 750cfm carb? 3) In my searches I see vehicle weights are all over the place? It looks like the most common are 3564 and 3591. Anybody know a good way to figure weight with accessories? 4) At idle the cam has a slightly smooth lope to it can I assume, everything else is, it is original? The engine does not appear rebuilt but I am not sure? 5) If it is a 300hp car it should be 10.25 compression correct? I have been running premium in the car and it runs well using it. Is there any reason to consider a lower middle grade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sheean Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I run premium in my 1971 with a 350 in it. Did you look at the freeze plugs on the engine, some times rebuilders use brass, that would be a give away. Is there a spec decal on the radiator cover? the sticker on the right has all of the info on it, if it is there? The Rochester Carb would be original. A little lope in the cam suggests an aftermarket cam to me, but I have a '71 and they had already started detuning for unleaded. I know others with more knowledge will chime in, just my .02 worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Patrick thanks for the help, The info was right there on the decal just like you said. The decal is about half the size of yours and so faded that I didn't think anything was legible. But I got on top of it with a loop and was able to just make out 300hp, yeeha, 350. Couldn't make out much more then that but thanks for that it was just what I needed to get a little determined. Your engine compartment looks very similar to mine. Yours is much cleaner, has the air/smog canister and no cruise but other then that it looks like the same car. Even same color fenders The freeze plugs are stamped steel. Not brass or stainless. They look pretty old and grungy with the good old Chevy red/orange paint on them. I wonder if someone slid an after market cam in there? I had a 63 Suburban with a 350 and a 2 barrel that had that slight lope. It was supposedly a stock 250 hp motor that came out of a 68. How hard would it be to figure out the specs on the cam while in the car? Even with that slight lope the engine runs pretty smooth at idle. According to the specs in the 70 shop manual, if I am reading it correctly, the cam was intake.2600/exhaust.2733. Did you convert your A/C over from R12 to something else? I have got to get mine working for summer. Any ideas on the CFM or best way to figure the overall weight. Can't find it now but I think I saw a thread once that showed weights on factory options? I imagine I would add the options with the gross vehicle weight of 3564/3591? I think I am going to try to get to the first or second day of the meet and get to now some of you guys. I would go Sunday but got a hot date with the wife for a ZZ Top/Jeff Beck concert. Great forum and as always I appreciate everyone's help, MC1970U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tonemonte Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I think I am going to try to get to the first or second day of the meet and get to now some of you guys. I would go Sunday but got a hot date with the wife for a ZZ Top/Jeff Beck MC1970U sounds like a great show! Enjoy that date! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Patrick thanks for the help, I wonder if someone slid an after market cam in there? I had a 63 Suburban with a 350 and a 2 barrel that had that slight lope. It was supposedly a stock 250 hp motor that came out of a 68. How hard would it be to figure out the specs on the cam while in the car? Even with that slight lope the engine runs pretty smooth at idle. According to the specs in the 70 shop manual, if I am reading it correctly, the cam was intake.2600/exhaust.2733. Interesting observation about your cam?? I have often wondered the same thing about my SBC350, 1971 original motor. Granted, my motor was rebuilt (.030 over, valve job, etc. but it sure seems as tho there is a different cam with the lope it echos. I have the repair ticket from when the motor was rebuilt prior to my ownership and it doesn't show that the cam was replaced. Possibly the stock equip. just sounds that way..........I like it, but curious on the specs if it is a different cam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 Thanks guys, Got the distributor ordered. I will let you all know how it turns out, MC1970U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 what did you decide on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 D.U.I. street/strip #12720. MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 that's the one I just bought too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 that's the one I just bought too Yeah I am really looking forward to dropping it in. The car runs really great on original startup and for however long I drive it but when I shut the engine off and start it back up the rpms float around slightly at idle. The worst thing is that it will just go dead sometimes when accelerating slowly. It doesn't seem to ever do this on original startup and when I drive the car for extended periods just anytime I shut it off for a minute then jump back in start up and drive. I have to play with the throttle some times. When I did my last tune-up and rebuilt the carb it ran perfectly with none of this problem. I did notice some movement when doing the timing and that the distributor was pretty worn. It has gotten worse as the points have aged. It was time to replace the points and the distributor so I decided to upgrade. Have any preference on wires or plugs? MC1970U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sheean Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Patrick thanks for the help, The info was right there on the decal just like you said. The decal is about half the size of yours and so faded that I didn't think anything was legible. But I got on top of it with a loop and was able to just make out 300hp, yeeha, 350. Couldn't make out much more then that but thanks for that it was just what I needed to get a little determined. Your engine compartment looks very similar to mine. Yours is much cleaner, has the air/smog canister and no cruise but other then that it looks like the same car. Even same color fenders The freeze plugs are stamped steel. Not brass or stainless. They look pretty old and grungy with the good old Chevy red/orange paint on them. I wonder if someone slid an after market cam in there? I had a 63 Suburban with a 350 and a 2 barrel that had that slight lope. It was supposedly a stock 250 hp motor that came out of a 68. How hard would it be to figure out the specs on the cam while in the car? Even with that slight lope the engine runs pretty smooth at idle. According to the specs in the 70 shop manual, if I am reading it correctly, the cam was intake.2600/exhaust.2733. Did you convert your A/C over from R12 to something else? I have got to get mine working for summer. Any ideas on the CFM or best way to figure the overall weight. Can't find it now but I think I saw a thread once that showed weights on factory options? I imagine I would add the options with the gross vehicle weight of 3564/3591? I think I am going to try to get to the first or second day of the meet and get to now some of you guys. I would go Sunday but got a hot date with the wife for a ZZ Top/Jeff Beck concert. Great forum and as always I appreciate everyone's help, MC1970U No problem. I had my R12 system rebuilt, it cools much better than anything else. The best way to determine the weight is get the old girl on a scale. If you are running a stock engine 650 CFM should do. If you contact Leo at Konik's klassiks he sells new stickers for under the hood. He is s member and a great resource for parts and knowledge base. I took off the easy stuff and had it sand blasted and powdercoated, then put new decals, new charcoal canistor, (helped with the way the car runs) and had the intake manifold tanked and the carbon removed. It runs just like new, also a new idle solonoid to kick the idle up when the A/C is on. It's #'s matching so I'm going all original. Most importantly I love taking it out after church on Sunday for family cruises. Love the Monte ride! Enjoy your car while your restoring it, makes the work, worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudax Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 As far as wires, I went with Taylor 10.4 mm with my DUI. Obviously, you won't need to go that big but Taylor makes great wires and come in just about any color you want. Plugs, you are going to get a wide range of opinions here. Me personally, I am running NGK but what ever you decide just make sure you cross reference the same heat range if your current plugs worked good for you. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 I prefer Taylor wires http://www.taylorvertex.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I am running Taylors....8.5mm red. Custom cut....only way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Noticed in the manual that with the HEI equipped cars, the cable layout on the distributor for position #1 moves from front left for points to front right for HEI. The firing order is the same, of course, I don't think I did that when I converted? Is that necessary since the firing order hasn't changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1970U Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 She's all done and man am I happy I went with the DUI. A bit costly the way I went but the payoff was well worth it. Now I don't know for sure what the actual condition my stock distributor was in but what I can tell you is the new set up is vastly superior to how my stock distributor performed with a new set of points installed. The new DUI distributor, new live wires and new Autolite platinum's made for at least a 25hp gain, smother idle and much more off line torque. Its not so bad getting on the highway onramp with the 273s now. Thanks for all the support and encouragement, spoony Almost forgot the low speed dead spot/stall on slight acceleration is gone. That was really annoying and a bit dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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