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Big Block Header Recommendations?


MonteAZBB70

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Guys here are the one's that fit,

 

PERTRONIX owned(Doug's & Patriot): they pride themselves on fit for both brands.

Doug's Headers: their elite brand (D313- 1 3/4" full length (say collector bottom even with bottom of tranny pan) or D306 clippster)

Patriot Headers: (1 3/4" or 1 7/8" sizes full length (8024,8026) or clippster (8012,8013) *clippsters verified fit by two members

 

HEDMAN HEADERS (1 3/4" clippster OR 2" clippster no a/c) *verified fit by members

 

HOLLEY owned:

Flowtech #31132 (1 7/8" full length) listed on sites to fit. Holley says "mistake"

 

SANDERSON: (1 7/8" shorty BB3,BB1 or Full length C7)

*they say the collector on full sits 1 1/4" below oil pan (too low for me)

 

HOOKER COMP's * verified by members w/energy susp mounts which lift engine approx. 3/4" *verified-Nate Z

 

Caution Summit often lists fits for the Monte that the mfr only lists for Chevelle. These assume A-body so must fit. Summit lists the Doug Thorleys as fitting the Monte but when you call them they say they have nothing to fit the Monte. So beware before ordering from Summit, Check with actual mfrs fit list.

 

Dan

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Remember the factory floor shifter and the column shifter both have the same linkage that runs down the firewall to the frame, that could get in the way, but I am not sure why they say only manual or floor shifter, because there is plenty of room around the Patriot headers and the linkage. I will see if I can dig up a picture later.

 

Ian

That is what I was thinking....

It seems there is alot of room between the firewall and linkage and the exhaust manifolds.

 

I will be installing a 454 with the large chamber super comp headers...maybe they won't be to big of an issue. laugh

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Just realized I forgot to list the Hedmans. Hedman has shorty and full legth headers for the Monte. The current full length header is 1 3/4" primaries but they have a new one that should be out May-June with 2" primaries. They have them listed with No pick and I was told availability May-June.

 

I would try those before the Super Comps unless your good with a hammer!!

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Hey Bill,(502ci) do you have any problem with your hooker comp 2" rubbing up on the steering shaft? I'm almost ready to change my headers and exhaust and will not replace with the super comp. Thanks,Bill

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Hey Bill,(502ci) do you have any problem with your hooker comp 2" rubbing up on the steering shaft? I'm almost ready to change my headers and exhaust and will not replace with the super comp. Thanks,Bill

Here's a photo of the closest point of contact with the steering shaft and the 2" primary tube.

 

I did unhook the shaft on the one end to make the header install easier and as you can see it has never touched the shaft...man, I got to do some touch up on that paint... lol (note...that is a piece of grass on the tube).

 

img0702hn9.jpg

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There seems to be some slight variations as to engine location on FGMC big block cars that were equipped as so from the factory, or retro fitted. Dollar for dollar, the most bang for the buck, and the least amount of fitment issues has been and always will be (at least until something new comes along) Hooker Competition headers made for a Chevelle. On some FGMC's no dimpling is required to clear the steering shaft whereas others do. Even if you have to slightly modify a primary tube for clearance the trade off on performance is worth the effort. If you, or someone else takes ther time and does the dimpling right the average person won't even be able to tell you did anything once the headers are either coated, or painted. In my humble opinion Hooker Comp's are the only header for a stock body FGMC. That's what I have and many, many others who have no complaints about looks and performance. As always just my two cents.

BB

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I run the Dynomax Ceramic Coated BBC headers #86110 in my 71 and they did fit well on the driver side. Had to ding one tube on the passenger side to clear the A-Arm mount... smile

 

http://www.firstgenmc.com/andreas/Engine21.jpg

http://www.firstgenmc.com/andreas/Engine11.jpg

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Hey guys, get a load of this mess, 100_0380.jpg?dc=4675605800176339778eek These are 2" primary tubes, and still they rub and catch vibration in the wheel. I couldn't get the camera to catch the other 2 tubes on the same side, banged up just as bad maybe worse. cry 600hp is on to something. This car did not originally come with a big block. That could be why the headers need to be banged in. Andreas, who's headers are on that awesome looking motor! cool

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These are 2" primary tubes, and still they rub and catch vibration in the wheel.

You mean they were 2" primary tubes... eek

 

I guess you had to do what you had to do... wink

 

Bill

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All the money and time, late at night, only minutes away from starting her up. Couldn't wait,re-pull the motor then send back the headers and find new ones, it was my daily driver. Grabbed the mallot and whacked away eek sad but nesessary. Hey Bill, mines in the 11's too....awesome....it car never be fast enough.

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Bill,

 

Glad to see that custom header work didn't slow you down in the quarter... smile

 

An 11 second daily driver is pretty cool... cool

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Thank God I only work 2 miles from home. laugh But the race fuel is still a killer. Going to take your advice a few weeks ago...change the pistons on my existing motor to lower the compression so I can run 93octane. Thanks. Bill smile

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Mike, I have the headman shorty street hedders part # 68610 They fit great NO ISSUES AT ALL They have the 1 3/4" primary tubes and a 3" ball collector. I have 3" exhaust pipe under the car and you can't even see it from the side. I figure the 3" pipe makes up for the 1 3/4 " primary tubes. My motor is a 454 .030 over with 10.5 compression, Lunati voodoo stick, ported oval port heads, weiand stealth intake, holley 770 and makes beetween 450 and 500 horsepower. My car also has A/C and you can actually change the # 8 plug with not much effort. It had the hooker comps on it when I got it and they were hitting the proportioning valve the steering shaft and the A/C box. They make the hedders in ceramic coated also part # 68616 but if you are rebuilding the motor don't put them on until break in or oil blow by and improper timing at start up will burn up the coating. Also get rid of the rubber motor mounts and replace them with energy suspensions neoprene this will save changing many gaskets. Also get the elite gaskets the regular ones you get in the box suck. If you post E mail adress I can send you pictures of the headers and exhaust system while car was on the lift. Hope this was some help.

 

Darrell

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