jacob Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 got the car to run using the key it was the neutral safety switch now im trying to get every thing else to work now... no brake lights, tail lights, backup lights, headlights nothing as if we weren't getting power to them. Im hooking up the gauges witch have a new circuit board and the headlight switch worked less than a year ago. I put on the brakes and pulled the taillight bulb to see if were just bad bulbs and got no reading on my tester from the tail light socket. also poked around on the fuse block just touching the ends of the fuses and nothing there either and in advance thank you all for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Maybe the fusible link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 where is the location of the fusible link or links my car is a 72. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toppless72 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Jacob, The fuseable link in the '72's should be about six to ten inches from the starter. It is the smaller wire attached to the same post as the battery cable at the top of the solenoid. Â To test the fuseable link, attach a test lamp wire lead to ground and the probe to the stud on the back of the alternator. If you get a light your link is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 I put the test light on the end of that black wire and it lit up the wiring harness is brand new and i have not crossed any thing on the battery so it should be good. I did replace a few of the fuses on the electrical box could that be a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 I believe headlights are a dedicated circuit without fuses. That should be a clue. All that stuff requires a good ground, and it grounds to the body. Make sure you have a ground strap that simply connects the body to the frame. My '71 has a pigtail on the negative battery cable that bolts to the fender. Grounds seem to be a common problem with our cars, so I add extra. I have a braided cable connecting my body to the frame, and another connecting my engine to the frame. The engine rides on rubber mounts, and so does the body, so the body, frame and engine are isolated from each other by those rubber pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 yes I read another post talking about how theres rubber between separating the body and motor from the frame its just crazy ... where did you get your braided line i will defiantly be doing this to both my cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 where does the power to the tail lights and turn signals come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toppless72 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Jacob, Â Try this. You should be able to trace down every circuit with it. It takes a few seconds to load but it's worth the wait. Â 1972 wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 thanks ill defiantly take a look and hopefully get it figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 The braided straps can be found at your local parts store. Maybe in the "Help" section. There are all sizes to choose from, ranging from full-on battery cables to small ones with ring terminal ends.  Here is a full kit from Jegs: (Summit has it also) Ground strap kit   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 great I love getting stuff from Jegs that's some thing I will defiantly be adding to my must get list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 okay finally got to hook up my tester and recheck my fuses I was touching the fuse not the tab so that's why there was no reading so I then tried disconnecting the back harness in the trunk and got 12v when I put my tester end in side ways touching the two lower right side tabs but no others had power and when I got a friend to put on the brakes and had no power to any of the other tabs. The single ground in the trunk is clean but some one used a good bit of bulb grease in the tail light sockets that could be a issue there... could you used electrical cleaner to get that stuff out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I was taught to trace an electrical problem like a road map, start at one end and follow the wire till you find power. I had slightly rusty / corroded fuse contacts that prevented current flow one time. BTW, 4 way flashers light the same filament in the bulb as the brake lights so you don't need a helper. Is everything hooked back up? Instrument cluster, bulkhead connector, steering column, turn signal switch? With 4 ways on, applying the brakes should stop the flashing and leave the lights on steady. Good luck! Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 the bulkhead connecter is the big one that plugs into the gauge cluster if so yes its hooked up.the headlight switch is also hooked up but someone cut the ground wire in my assembly manual it shows it being grounded to the cluster... could it be run through the fire wall and grounded to the frame? or does it have to be there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toppless72 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 The Firewall is referred to as the bulkhead. The bulkhead connector is the plug where the wires pass through from the engine compartment into the interior compartment. The ground wire from the light switch is there to help ground the cluster not the switch. There are 2 or 3 (depending on the car) grounds running from the cluster to the instrument panel frame work. All of them should be connected to insure proper grounding of the cluster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 sweet ill get that ground hooked up might solve my headlights not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 nope no change in the headlights I got it grounded just like the factory. but the emergency brake warning light works I did some more testing at the fuse block no flashing voltage when the turn signals are on and when you put on the brakes you get 12v at the fuse that has stop on the left side also replaced the tail light bulbs and headlights they were old any way. also the turn signal indicator lights in the gauges aren't working when you put on the turn signal and the front turn signals/side marker lights aren't working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 okay got a few things accomplished got new headlights cleaned the grounds really really good and got a new headlight switch... and guess what almost every thing worked the running lights, headlights, brake lights all worked but no gauge lights or turn signals didn't get to test back up lights so not sure on them the front side marker lights worked but no turn signals in the front. the odd thing was that I leave the battery unhooked at night and I went to hook it back up the next day nothing worked rechecked the fuses and the same thing as before 12v but not a things working . How hard is it to replace the turn signal switch ? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 For the dash gauge lights there is a small fuse (half the length) but to test you need the headlights on. Do you have a flasher? there are two, one for the TS and one in the fuse box for the 4 Way flashers. Do the 4 ways work? Here is a picture of my 71 fuse box, note the inst lps fuse bottom left. 71 fuse box pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 The four ways worked I just replaced the tail light bulbs the hazard switch was stuck (the stem just got stuck) so they were flashing away. also the front side marker lights in the lower fender weren't working but the rear ones were so that's most likely a ground problem so need to find that. I replaced a few fuses the ones for the gauges, the little junior fuse, the tail light fuse... no change so im going to take the headlight switch back since they said I could return it with in 90 days if it went bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 There was a write up some time back on replacement H/L switches NOT having the same number of terminals as the OEM switch. I have a picture of my OEM 71 H/L switch here: Pic of 71 OEM H/L switch  Can't remember what the switch with OUT 7 terminals wouldn't power. My memory is telling me it was the dash lights. Anyone here remember this problem with replacement H/L switches and is 72 same as 71? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 There was something also in one of the threads about a copper strap between a couple of terminals. I used to build those headlight switches and I remember some models had that strap and others did not but cannot remember what worked with them. That was 45 years ago and my rememberer ain't what she used to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72jrfan88 Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I initially had a problem with one headlight and a side marker light. In my case there was corrosion on the terminals and inside sockets of side marker lights. I put some CLR on them, dissolved corrosion and they are great now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 mine is the 7 terminal as well thought is was the eight so ill get that head light switch back ... great idea using the CLR defiantly need do that on those front side marker lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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