monte0 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Well I ran into a isue last night when removing the crash ring from the axles on my 9" rear end. I used the die grinder but I ended up slipping and cutting into one axle. What is rule of thumb when doing this? I attached a pic of how bad it is. I measured the depth and in the worse spot it's 2/32"...I hope it's not bad enough were I've got to change axles but by the looks of it I might be close to the boarder line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I would replace it, there's so much stress at that point and isn't that the area where the seal rides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Metal fatigue failures most often start at a stress point and you've unfortunately created a dandy in a very bad spot. I wouldn't take a chance on that if I had zero deductible insurance ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte0 Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 I would replace it, there's so much stress at that point and isn't that the area where the seal rides? Their isn't any seal their. The 9" rears use a sealed bearing and a lock ring behind the bearing area since their is no c-clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte0 Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Yea, I'm kind of torn on the idea of what to do. A rear end builder I know said I could still use it since the stress will mainly be at the bearing area to the flange. Plus the fact that the area cut is about 3/16" thicker then the rest of the shaft. Idk, really hate to spend more again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overdrive Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I'd weld it. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 take it to an engine builder/machine shop and have them tig it and polish it like they do for crankshaft journals...as long as you are not launching it at 5000 rpm I dont see any reason why not keep em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudax Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 A good machinist could fill it and make sure it is back to spec for you. But, IMO, to upgrade the axles isn't all that expensive and you would have all new steel, not 45 year old stuff. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte0 Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Doesn't heating the axle make it more brittle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte0 Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 A good machinist could fill it and make sure it is back to spec for you. But, IMO, to upgrade the axles isn't all that expensive and you would have all new steel, not 45 year old stuff. Mike The axles are only about 7-8 years old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overdrive Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Axles are hardened steel and hardened steel is brittle. The very small amount of welding you need to repair that little groove isn't going to build enough heat to cause any problems. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 And if my memory serves me at all a tig weld is not as hot as some of the other types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte0 Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Good to know...I'll see if I can find someone local. If not then new axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.