MGD72Monte Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 After a 40+ years of service, it looks like my (28.25" x 17" x 2") 3 row OEM style radiator has sprung a leak that can't be pin pointed and apparently can't be fixed. At any rate, I'm looking for a replacement. The OEM design provided plenty of cooling for my mild build 350 so no cooling power issues to resolve beyond the leak. I've read on this forum that the Champion Aluminum 2 core http://www.championradiators.com/Chevy-Monte-Carlo-2-row-radiator-1970-1977 is a popular replacement and at about $160, it appears to be the best bang for the buck. Other options include an OEM APDI replacement http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3610614&jsn=__GIP__3__ at $210, other OEM replacements I found are almost $500. Strangely that Rock Auto part is only listed for 70-71 Montes. Specifically I was wondering if anyone had any experience or feedback on this Aluminum unit http://www.chevelle.com/1968-1972-Heavy-Duty-Aluminum-Radiator-Auto-or-Man-P7982.aspx. At $250, it is the most expensive of the three but it has a bit of the stock look which I like and the transmission cooler lines holes appear to be closer to my current stock location than the other two options, plus I like the idea of getting the longevity and weight advantage of Aluminum. Thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Champion seems to be a popular name although I have no previous experience with them. I did replace my original HD 3 Core several years back with an American Made Alumi-Tech 2 Core Aluminum one. I went with them because they were able to provide me with one that looked closely like the original exterior and of course their claim of superior & reputation. There is also BeCool and Griffen that are American Made that are reputable. You are going to pay more for an American Made Radiator & thats the basic difference in cost. I however submit that American Made provides a superior product that performs and wears excellent. Jusrt my opinion............... Here is a page where you can look over the Alumi-Tech one just for reference at minimum........... http://www.universalpartsinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=772704&c=10410 And here is a brief explanation why their's is more efficient: I will be the first to agree if you’re a true enthusiast and want to keep the car bone stock with Harrison tanks on your b/c core ... by all means get it re-cored with a 4 row ,providing your not having over heat conditions . The differences between the original brass copper 3 row ..keep in mind 3 rows of 1/2 inch tubes equal only 1.5 inches of fin to tube contact of cooling surface ...then in a 4 row configuration the tubes get even smaller 4 rows of 3/8 tubesStill less then 2 inches of tube to fin contact .. not to mention the original radiators has 1/2 inch space between the tubes in height ...less tubes in stack height top to bottom then today's radiators ...and less fins per inch about 10 to 12 in a original Harrison ... ok now to a aluminum core 2 rows of 1 inch tubes .. a full 2 inches if tube to fin contact .. core thickness 2.25 of fin ...15 fins per inch of tube more cooling contact surface ...3/8 inch of stack height .. this means more tubes per header height .... also the tube to fin bond is (not lead) ... a poor conductor of heat transfer. There are many companies offering other products as replacements ...my thoughts were if you can build a copper brass replacement (re-pop) in brass copper ... why couldn’t you do the same thing in aluminum ...and have it fit and look like the original unit This is why we put so much effort into the design of our radiator ... to replicate the original fit and style of the Harrison radNo modifications Required I hope this brief synopsis helps people understand the difference between the brass copper units and aluminum configurationsthanks Don Good parts aren't cheep and cheep parts aren't good . Good luck on selecting one. There are so many to choose from................. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I run Champion radiators in both my cars, and have replaced both radiators once. The first one showed up with a significant leak under pressure. The second one failed after about 3 years of service. Those who know me know my car doesn't sit in the garage and I had lots of miles on the 3 year old Champion radiator. Luckily Champion has a lifetime warrantee and they were very good about replacing the faulty units. The scuttlebutt around here is Champion radiators are prone to issues, and you will replace a lot of them. My experience so far has not contradicted the rumors. However, the price is great and my cars stay nice and cool in the Florida heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380457/overview/year/1972/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo I have great service from this radiator. It keeps my s/b cool regardless of the outside temps. Pretty much drop in and go. I run distilled water and water wetter. Don't think you can go wrong with any suggestions. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigscaht Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I run a champion unit in my car..sbc 350 and have had no issues since ive had it..almost 4 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Thanks all for your input, still hoping someone has dealt with Ausley's Chevelle can speak to that option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I have the Ausley's radiator in my 72. the fit is perfect, the transmission cooler ports are in the right spot. I cant speak on how well it does as the motor hasn't been started and there is no coolant in the system. It's as big if not bigger then a 4 row radiator width wise. I will be cooling my setup with dual 11" spal fans that is mounted in an alum shroud which fits nicely against the radiator and is held in place with the top plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GatorDog72 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380457/overview/year/1972/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo I have great service from this radiator. It keeps my s/b cool regardless of the outside temps. Pretty much drop in and go. I run distilled water and water wetter. Don't think you can go wrong with any suggestions. David This is the rad I'm using. Keeps my big block cool with electric fans and water pump on a 90 degree day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I have a 3 core champion radiator In my 70 and have no issues with it. I helps keep my BBC cool. Great radiator in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 I have the Ausley's radiator in my 72. the fit is perfect, the transmission cooler ports are in the right spot. I cant speak on how well it does as the motor hasn't been started and there is no coolant in the system. It's as big if not bigger then a 4 row radiator width wise. I will be cooling my setup with dual 11" spal fans that is mounted in an alum shroud which fits nicely against the radiator and is held in place with the top plate. Thanks, for the input, I ended up ordering the Ausley as well, in part because it looks somewhat stockish and because the transmission cooler ports are in the right location. I'm not sure I would call the fit perfect though; based on trial fits, it will take some work. First, at 2.5", the core is 0.5" wider than the original. Does not sound like much but with the stock fan shroud, it looks like I have to move the rad forward as much as possible. This means I will have to trim the front part of the bottom radiator mounts or make some custom mounts which let the rad slide forward. The second issue is that unlike the stock rad, it does not have nice thin tank ridges to sit in the groove of the upper and lower radiator mounts. The bottom and top of this rad (and I assume most of the other Aluminum rads) are a lot flatter so even without lower mounts during trial fitment, it sits higher than stock which is going to make fitting the shroud more problematic when it comes to securing the bottom of the shroud to the rad support. Another aspect I am not sure of is that the transmission cooler ports look to have a concave matting surface inside which is the opposite of the stock ones so I don't know how that is going to match with the flared ends of the transmission cooler lines. Did you or anyone else have to get some kind of adapter for those or re-flare the lines in a bubble flare shape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 MG I had no issue with my trans lines seating in the cooler, rather it leaks or not don't know as there is no fluid in the car. I can grab some pictures tonight with the top plate in place along with the dual elec fans. It could be they changed the designed after I got mine but who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Robert, Thanks, I made some phone calls to radiator suppliers about the transmission line ports today as some rad suppliers provide some adapters with their rads. You can see them in this pic http://www.usradiator.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/10050/image/9268/. Apparently if it is not the right config, the threads won't match. I test fitted the rad and the threads fit. I'm think it should be OK, the pressures are not like those in the brake system. My next step will be to find a way to fit the rad itself. I think it is not an issue for you because you are using electric fans. My biggest challenge is with the stock shroud as described in my last post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Here are the pictures of my radiator from Ausley's. The elec fan setup is from speedway motors and set under the lip of the top plate and sits in the tray the the radiator sits in. The transmission line screwed into the trans cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 Thanks for providing some good pics of the installation. Sorry about the slow reply, I wanted to provide a comprehensive overview in case someone else ever decides to install this rad, especially with the stock shroud. So here goes: To recap some of the info on my previous posts, I ended up ordering the Ausley Chevelle all Aluminum rad http://www.chevelle.com/1968-1972-Heavy-Duty-Aluminum-Radiator-Auto-or-Man-P7982.aspx in part because it looks somewhat stockish and because the transmission cooler ports are in the right location. Also at a total price of $267.95 (delivered to my door) it was acceptable although certainly not the cheapest out there. The rad arrived the same week I ordered it, double boxed and in good condition. Fit: Here is where the fun starts. Although the height and length dimensions are pretty much the same as stock, unlike the stock rad, it does not have nice well defined and thin tank ridges to sit in the groove of the upper and lower radiator mounts. The bottom and top of this rad (and I assume most of the other all Aluminum welded rads) are a lot flatter. In addition, at 2.5", the core is 0.5" thicker/wider than the original. Does not sound like much but with the stock fan shroud you can’t just drop it in or the shroud will be too high and the bottom will stick out to far away from the rad support to properly clip in. Instead it will rest on the rad core fins which could damage the fins overtime. To resolve this double problem, I had to shave and shape the rad mounts (mostly the bottom ones). This is a pic of the shaved ones next to new ones . This allowed me to move the rad as far forward and as low as possible (being careful not to generate any metal on metal contact). Here is a shot of the pax side one installed . After multiple test fits, more trimming I was able to get it to sit as well as possible. When I put the shroud in, it was touching the core fins slightly so I had to shave off a few millimeters of the driver’s side upper portion until I could pass a piece of paper between the fins and shroud without binding. The Area is shown here With all this done, the shroud sits about 3/16" higher than stock but that is not visible from the top and this is still low enough that the bottom clips of the shroud mate properly to the lower rad support. Transmission cooler lines: One of the main selling points to me for this rad was the location of the cooler ports being very close to stock. Although the locations are good, the problem I identified earlier i.e. that the transmission cooler ports on the rad have a flat or even concave matting surface inside which is the opposite of the stock plus the hole for the fluid flow is larger ultimately this does not mate properly with the flared ends of the transmission cooler lines . Nevertheless since the fitting thread fit, I decided to try it out. I found that shortly after I started running the engine the fittings were leaking in spite of being nice and tight. I could have tried to use sealant tape or made up some kind of small gasket and that may have worked but knowing that other sellers of this rad provided fittings to address this, I called Ausley’s and pointed this out. They said that they had never heard of this problem and did not have these fittings. After some research I found the fittings to be available as “Be Cool” brand Automatic Transmission Cooler Fittings part #72001 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-72001. I was able to pick these up at Summit for $5 each. I put them in (found I needed to use sealant tape on the bottom one) and it solved the leak. I also found that the rad drain plug was leaking around the threads after a full cycle run so I added sealant tape and that stopped the leak. I like the final installation, basically a nice aluminum rad with stock shroud configuration. Cooling performance looks to be good although it has not been very hot yet. Overall durability is to be determined but hopefully this is useful for someone else looking to fit this rad in a stock configuration. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overdrive Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Nice write up, and the work you've done looks good. As you found, the threads in the aluminum radiator for the drain and the trans cooler lines are a female tapered pipe thread. The only thread that will seal properly with them is the male tapered pipe thread. Some type of thread sealer should always be used on tapered threads, since the thread is the only place the seal is made. The inverted flare, like the transmission lines use, only seals at the flare and not the threads. The thread on the nut on the lines is not tapered and won't seal correctly against a tapered pipe thread. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 Nice write up, and the work you've done looks good. As you found, the threads in the aluminum radiator for the drain and the trans cooler lines are a female tapered pipe thread. The only thread that will seal properly with them is the male tapered pipe thread. Some type of thread sealer should always be used on tapered threads, since the thread is the only place the seal is made. The inverted flare, like the transmission lines use, only seals at the flare and not the threads. The thread on the nut on the lines is not tapered and won't seal correctly against a tapered pipe thread. Dan Thanks, very well explained additional info; the taper was clearly visible in those added fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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