snomobeelr Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 Don't mean to pile up the threads. changing headers may need to change Motor mount. BBC . My drivers side header was a bit close to the proportioning valve. I knew there was a little movement . But after pulling the header out , and as Tom suggested in another thread I may need to change my motor mount. I think least the drivers side Motor Mount and better off doing it while headers are out . Unfortunately Im not going to go with the "Chris Alston chassis works" . I know the debate over the Poly and the rubbers far as vibration. I just want to make this as easy as possible and use the existing frame mount. I am leaning towards the Lakewood 24087 or the Energy Suspension. Does anyone know which Energy Suspension I should get is it the "Tall and Narrow - 31117G?. Or any other sugjestions? Its been a long time. I can do one side at a time right? Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 I went with the 31117G's on my build. Someone suggested also changing out the transmission mount which I did, Also Energy suspension product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 I did not suggest the Chris Alston mounts to raise the engine for header clearance. The height is standard. I suggested them because anyone with an engine with alot of HP and torque will eventually destroy a stock or poly stock style mount. A solid mount vibrates everything including your teeth. Lol. The Alston mounts, the way they are designed are the best style of both worlds. The strength of a solid mount and the non vibration of a stock mount. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 Tom I wish I had seen those when I was putting the car together for exactly the reason your saying, one and done. I really just don't want to change the frame mounts at this stage. Not to mention it will prove my wife to be right. Again . 😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 Just to be clear, and as Tom mentioned.........going back to the header thread. I did not intend to suggest mounts would fix header clearance. I just posted what I had done with my ARH install and my build. I probably would have gone with the Alston mounts if I knew about them back then, but its good info to know now lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 I understand and agree with not wanting to do the mounts I suggested. I only stumbled across them while looking for a better mount, dare I say, unbreakable when I was going to install the engine into my Monte. After many years of breaking stock mounts, Lakewood mounts and solid mounts, yes broke them also I was looking for what I found, so far, in the Alston engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share Posted February 20, 2022 Thanks guys , I know the mounts won't fix the header clearance. I was thinking since I have the headers off maybe swap the mount. The build has 7000 miles on it and they are stock type engine mounts with rubber. 7000 isn't much but I do hammer on her a lot. Figured it might help tighten it up the movement a little, maybe. So If I do go poly on the engine mount do I have to go poly on the trans too? Thanks again, I do appreciate it. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 Someone here, or someplace else I value an opinion/knowledge told me to replace the trans mount when I went with the poly motor mounts. So I will say yes. As far as the "vibration" comments I heard and read that also, but I have no complaints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted February 21, 2022 Author Share Posted February 21, 2022 Another dumb question. Im just changing the driver side engine Side mount. Where should I jack up the engine from ? at the balancer? Or too much stress on crank. I would think if I jacked it up with pice of wood from the bottom flat part of oil pan I would crush it? Am I overthinking it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 If I had to choose between the two I’d use the oil pan with an oversized block of wood. DON’T use the balancer. Preferably use the hooks on the engine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 So I may have an issue. The original Motor mount is 2 1/2 wide and the Energy suspension is 31117G is 2 3/8 wide. I think the other energy suspension "3.1114G" is shorter and its 2 5/8 wide. So too much correct, and it is shorter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 It appears the height is a little different too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 So I ordered the short wide "Energy Suspension 3.1114G" but it was too wide and 1/4 or more shorter. I may have been able to place a washer in the mount but didn't want to do that. I ended up replacing it with the "Lakewood 24087 "Motor Mount. The car originally had a 350 and I never changed the Frame mounts. The lakewood are 3.5 wide and the only ones that seemed fit the frame mount correctly. There was some play in the old mount so Ill have to watch it in the future. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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