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Rear Disc Conversion-is the proportional valve really needed?


Mike

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I have a 1970 with disc front, rear drum. The rears need rebuilding but since i have bumped the car up to a 454 with 550hp i thought it more prudent to just bite the bullet and go disc on the rear

 

So, I have a buddy that has done a bunch of these on Fords and Chevies. He told me to remove or gut the proportional valve as its no longer needed on four wheel disc. Seems like we would still need some bias towards the front, but I dont know. So thats my first question. ANd the hold off valve...would also go? He wasnt familiar with that so I just throw it out there for feedback/intel. 

 

Second question is, I want to move the proportional valve (assuming it stays in one form or another) up to the booster and get it off the frame so i can have better header clearance. All my lines are original so Im thinking its time to replace them, and they are really cheap from Inline Tube. SO, my question is, if i order the line set for the 71-72 car, would that fit to what I am trying to do? 

 

Thanks in advance for your help. Mike

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They make a proportioning valve for the disc/disc application, that would work to retain the failure warning light if you lost a line (front or rear). Same physical shape as the regular disc/drum.

No hold off valves needed, as the master cylinder is mounted higher than everything.

Doubtful you'll find direct replacement lines that will locate the prop valve from the stock location, to just below the booster area like some of the GM cars had..

I have ARH headers that are close to the valve, so I just made a heat shield to protect the valve, no issues so far. (I have BAER front/rear discs on the car)

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My son's 70 pro street Monte has 4 wheel disc, manual brakes. We slightly relocated the proportioning valve from its factory place while still using the factory style lines from inline tube. Made up the lines to the line lock and manual brake master. 

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Thomas, such a simple idea, wish I would have thought of that when i had the engine out. DANG. 

 

BUT, I guess if the lines are coming out its game on for moving it like you did. Thank you.

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On 12/5/2023 at 12:39 PM, jft69z said:

They make a proportioning valve for the disc/disc application, that would work to retain the failure warning light if you lost a line (front or rear). Same physical shape as the regular disc/drum.

No hold off valves needed, as the master cylinder is mounted higher than everything.

Doubtful you'll find direct replacement lines that will locate the prop valve from the stock location, to just below the booster area like some of the GM cars had..

I have ARH headers that are close to the valve, so I just made a heat shield to protect the valve, no issues so far. (I have BAER front/rear discs on the car)

20200529_153036.jpg

20200529_153337.jpg

20200529_153530.jpg

Joe T, are those stainless headers? I went with exact replacements for the Hooker Ceramics Comps that were on there and they are now made in China and the finish is horrific. I want to change them out.

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13 minutes ago, Mike said:

Joe T, are those stainless headers? I went with exact replacements for the Hooker Ceramics Comps that were on there and they are now made in China and the finish is horrific. I want to change them out.

Yes, ARH stainless. I had Hooker Super Comps (I had to modify a Chevelle set years ago to fit the Monte), and a regular set of Hooker Comps too. They hang down so low, nearly scrapes the street, lol.

The ARH headers tuck up nice and tight, to the point the oil pan & trans hang lower than the tubes. I hate seeing the exhaust hang down, especially when viewed from the side, or the tailpipes as well. 

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