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rollbar install


CrazyDavey

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some asked to see some pic's so here they are. This is the basic install of a 6 point kit from Chris Alston Chassisworks. They make them for the car and fit great. I'll post some tomorrow with the interior back in it...

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trunk put back together, the system is good into the 10's

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grin

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I got a question...is that a plate that ties the door bar (near the the swing out connection) into the main hoop? Looks like a flex point that would bend on impact...maybe I'm missing something underneath it.

 

Also how is that removable cross bar behind the front seat legal?

 

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I'll have to check the spec sheet when I go down to the shop this morning Bill. I'm not an engineer but I'm thinking if the main loop crushes then it didn't do its job or the stress exceeded the requirements dictated by NHRA. As to the location of the attach point at the loop for the side bars the requirement is that the side bar be high enough to allow the bar to pass between the elbow and shoulder of the driver. I do know there is a gusset that goes under the sidebar attach tab at the loop but I think the bar is there for side protection.

 

As far as the removeable back bar it is stated to be NHRA legal and is very strong. All of the clevis pieces are forged machined steel that slip inside the tubing and are then tig-welded in place. The clevis pins are 1/2" so that is a matter of shear strength which is designed to exceed that of a weld. I guess the bottom line is that this is a company who has been doing this for 35 years, is well known and I really don't have the knowledge to challenge the design. It's sort of like you trust the new tires that they won't blow out because the manufacturer said they won't. I will confirm the position of the side bar tabs though, thanks Bill....Davey.. grin

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Very nice Dave!!!! If ya don't mind me asking how much was the kit and install. Me thinks I will need one. I like the fact that you can remove the back bar. Sweet!!

 

David

 

hey Dave, no I don't mind...the total for the kit was a tick under $500 (I don't have the invoice in front of me). That included several upgrades from the base kit which included...dual swing-outs for the door bars, rear bars that loop over the rear seat and the removeable back bar. The cost of the upgrades is in those clevis pieces, those are major pieces of machining and nicely done. My shop is charging me $800 for the install for the bar and the harness. I also spent $50 to have the carpet modified to go around the bars in the floor and the package tray. I used double layer carpet insallation to go around the bars through the floor to the frame to keep out noise and fumes. This also is removeable if a track what's to inspect the welds...Davey

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I need a roll bar also. I thought I read that a removable cross bar was not race spec...if it is like you say it is I would definitely have that option installed.

 

I need to find someone around me who does custom roll bars, last Winter I almost had it done but the guy couldn't get his act together... frown I'd be willing to take it a good distance to have it done right...anybody know of a place around Ohio?

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I've never seen the removable bar that runs behind the seats but what a great idea. I also like the swing out side bars and the ones that go back to the trunk look really good. I vote for a job well done. Tom smile

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Guest 72yellowmc
I need a roll bar also. I thought I read that a removable cross bar was not race spec...if it is like you say it is I would definitely have that option installed.

 

I need to find someone around me who does custom roll bars, last Winter I almost had it done but the guy couldn't get his act together... frown I'd be willing to take it a good distance to have it done right...anybody know of a place around Ohio?

 

Bill I don't think you have to install a cage until you hit the 11.50's

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very nice cool

 

I'm getting sick of (and too old lol ) for crawling over that door bar, squeezing between that and the steering wheel (need a quick-release wheel) then smacking my head on the front halo (10 point cage)

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Bill I don't think you have to install a cage until you hit the 11.50's

 

I know I'm only in the 11.80's but I got 250hp worth of Nitrous waiting to be sprayed into my engine... shock

 

Actually I'll only be using 150 of it but that still will put me way past that 11.50 mark... cool

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Jared, yeah $800...that included taking out the entire interior, cutting the holes in the floor/package area, cutting and trial fitting everything, welding everything in, re-checking fit and make adjustments, re-install the entire interior and install the harness. It took about 4 days and they did a show quality job I think.

 

Mike, yes the interior was blue originally.

 

Bill, I'll be at the track tomorrow so I'll find out for sure about the removable back bar. If you go to www.cachassisworks.com you can look at the kit I used. On the home page click products...schroll down to rollbars/cages..click....the first choice is rollbars, click....second one is the 8 point ( a chassis car does not need the two little extra bars that go from the loop to the rear floor), click on the image and it gives you a bigger view and some articles to read..choose one about installing a rollbar and you can see a bit more of it. The example they use is a F body car but is has the removable back bar....see what you think...I highly recommend these kits, mine fit like a glove...Davey

 

here's some after pics

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grin

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Thanks for sharing the completed pictures. They did a nice job. If I were to do mine, I'd go around the w/s and down to the frame ahead of the dash. I guess they call this a 10 pt cage?? If your going to go that far, then heck, just go all the way with a back half car, all change all sheet metal, one seat, etc, etc!! I'm having a hard time holding myself back from doing this. Can't get out of the car what I have in it, so, just make it the way I want it. There are several shops that I have information on and I may just check them out. I'm undecided which way I really want to go.

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I say go for it Royce, like you said you've gone this far make it how you want it. I just wanted to make it legal in case it went to fast someday. So far I haven't done anything to the car that can't be reversed, I don't feel so bad that way... grin

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Guest 72yellowmc
Originally Posted By: 72yellowmc
Bill I don't think you have to install a cage until you hit the 11.50's

 

I know I'm only in the 11.80's but I got 250hp worth of Nitrous waiting to be sprayed into my engine... shock

 

Actually I'll only be using 150 of it but that still will put me way past that 11.50 mark... cool

 

BILL!!!! no .... no power adders no .. grin

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Guest andrewT
Thanks for sharing the completed pictures. They did a nice job. If I were to do mine, I'd go around the w/s and down to the frame ahead of the dash. I guess they call this a 10 pt cage?? If your going to go that far, then heck, just go all the way with a back half car, all change all sheet metal, one seat, etc, etc!! I'm having a hard time holding myself back from doing this. Can't get out of the car what I have in it, so, just make it the way I want it. There are several shops that I have information on and I may just check them out. I'm undecided which way I really want to go.

 

tub it tub it!

 

The bar looks good!

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Did you have to do any trimming of the bars or is it built only for a monte (not universal) and just welded right in? if it just welded in, I'm buying one and doing it myself, I just don't have any tools to cut/notch tubing.

 

Thanks,

Garrett.

 

Garrett, the kits are for general models like "A" bodies or "F" bodies but you have to cut, trim and notch. Every car is a little bit different so you have to allow for that..

 

Ian, everything's going to be covered, paint doesn't help the bars from getting hot. At was 100 degrees today and I thought I was going to burn my fingers off at the track!!!!

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Did you experience the typical slower ET with the added weight of the roll bar? I've always heard around a .10 loss but in some cases with the now stiffer chassis the car hooked better...given the fact that was a prior problem thus running quicker.

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