bigscaht Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 how do you know if you need to replace your spindles..since I have all that takin apart..i was lookin at em but not sure what im lookin for as far as wear goes? what should I look for!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 When I redid my front end I was not planning to replace the spindles until I took them apart. On the first one I removed I noticed the lower ball joint hole was no longer round, it clearly had been hammered extremely hard at some point in the past to the point that it was oval rather than round. When I did the other side, I decided that it was not as bad but there was heavy corrosion on the exposed areas and since I was replacing one side and just about everything else, I decided to replace that one too. I would say look at the overall condition, ball joint holes, evidence of extreme hammering, the threads, the shaft for smoothness/wear, especially where the bearings sit and overall corrosion state. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigscaht Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 Ahhh ok thanks for that reply...they actually look pretty good after I cleaned em up....I think I can reuse em..ball joint holes look good...still round....I think imma give em both a new coat of paint and call it a day since I got other parts that need replaceing...ill spend that moneyon other stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Good question, I didn't even think to ask it. Just for my what-ifs, I looked up spindle prices on NPD, OPG, and Parts Place. Anybody have any idea why NPD and OPG sell them for $100 each, and Parts Place has them for $69ea/$105pair? Are they cheap quality or something? My initial thought is yes - steel is steel and it costs. Anybody know differently? Or does NPD and OPG just have higher mark-up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 DJ, Don't know if this will help but the ones I got were from OPG and am happy with them so far. I received one which was a clear return from someone else which had not been packaged properly and got scuffed. I returned it for exchange and they were good about it (no charge and not arguments). Not sure who their supplier is but in general the evolutions in steels over 40 years should make these last beyond my life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Does anybody know the reason for premature lower ball joint failure? On a Monte Carlo...as in busting right below the threaded portion of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Defective ball joint??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 over tightening the nut can weaken them severely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Rod, is this a recuring problem? and the joint is breaking in the area between the threaded area and the tapered area? Looking at the joint, this is the weakest part of the assembly. My first thought was a wobble in the tapered section and it's letting the shaft move from side to side while the nut is trying to hold it still...the constant bending of the shaft breaks it. The tapered design would make you think this is impossible; but if the wide end of the spindle hole is too wide, the ball joint shaft seats firmly at the narrow end only. This would be a spindle problem, not the fault of the ball joint. The other possibility is over tightening of the retaining nut. It could be almost pulling the treaded section off all by itself. Because it's a big nut and going over a hardened steel shaft on an important suspension part, you'd think it should really be tightened down tight... but the specs say it should be 33 ftlbs. I was surprised. That number is quite a bit less than even a lug nut. I just did a quick web search to get that torque value: double check the manual. The taperd fit design should hold the shaft firmly and prevent any side loads from reaching the retaing nut. At first glance it would look like the weight of the car is compressing the taperd shaft into the tapered hole...but it's the opposite; the weight is trying to pull the shaft out of the hole. That's what the retaining nut prevents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Rod, is this a recuring problem? The reason why I posed the question: On my daily driver "Betsy" I had replaced a passenger's side ball joint twice, a (TRW) good known brand, although re-boxed and made in Mexico. I had suspected its inferior quality, but after much research I came to the conclusion that the problem part was the spindle..although under a visual inspection it looked fine. After the second failure; I began to suspect the spindle rather than the ball joint..fortunately both times it happened it was at low speed. Talk about scary!! right down to the pavement..instantly!! The first replacement was an in and out, never even question its failure, the second time it happened it drew a red flag. Something is wrong, the spindle I thought? After close inspection I noticed the castle nut was almost bottoming out as if the taper had enlarged. I soon checked the ball joint and to my amazement, it had galling marks on the taper section? I had assembled it correctly, I never suspected the spindle, but after closer inspection it was obvious I had overlooked the enlargement of the taper. Funny had I taken the time to read the instructions they warn you of such check. Rookie mistake..Man, I didn't think the car was due for a new set of spindles, but in retrospect these riddled pothole roads in the "South-land" are relentless on cars. I can't imagine how many I have changed in the past and never even bothered to check the spindle taper, Food for thought!! "Always check the taper dimensions of a spindle closely".. catastrophic failure could be detrimental. and Mark you hit the nail right on the head!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigscaht Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 hummmm thats interesting info Mo' theres something to think about and as said before they really arent that expensive....i might jut take them to a suspention shop and have em looked at while their out..that wouldnt hurt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.