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master power window switch


monte70car

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Here is a picture of what I'm talking about 002-34.jpg as you can see there is no backen on the drivers side controls. Starting to miss the crank windows it's a pain when you have to pull the door panel off just to put one window up. All the other windows go up fine from the master switch it's just the drivers side. All windows have replacement motors that's a few years old new relay behind the drivers kick panel.

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In my opinion, I'd look for another connector that's in good shape rather than try to fix that one. If you try to fix it, it may just give you more problems down the road.

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Hey, Robert,

 

As nasty as that master switch looks, I think there is a very good chance that it can be refurbished and made to function reliably again. Just looking at the photo you posted, it sure looks like the electrical conductivity problem could be caused by loose or corroded wire-end connectors, corroded connector pins or (what can't be seen) corroded or worn down contact points inside the switch.

 

To check or remedy all of those possibilities, you will need to separate the switch assembly from the connector, remove the wire-end connectors from the connector housing and probably disassemble the switch body, also, but it is not difficult to do any of that.

 

Here's a link to a photo journal showing one way to clean and recondition all of the internal and external switch connections and contact surfaces. It worked wonders for the switches on both of my '70s and all of their windows work reliably now.

 

http://s912.photobucket.com/albums/ac329...and%20Switches/

 

It's unfortunate that someone cut the back out of your master switch connector as that is completely unnecessary to remove and recondition the connectors. There is also a section in the above photo journal on how to do that. If I were you, I would cover those openings in your switch back plate with electricians tape to prevent accidental shorting.

 

On the less positive side, I had a master switch that behaved exactly as yours does now. When I disassembled the switch, I discovered that the contact points were so badly worn down (driver's window usually gets far more use) that the physical travel of the switch toggle reached its limit before electrical contact could be made. Rather than trying to build up the contact surface with solder (which would probably have worked fine, also), I chose to swap the pin/contact board from another nasty looking switch body into my better looking switch housing and solved the problem that way.

 

Good luck resolving your switch problem. Let me know if I can help.

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Dennis thanks I did get in touch with American Auto Wire they make the drivers side harness with the end I need for $168 or they can do a one off pigtail for $35. Original I had the connection part warp in black tape but over time it came off. As for it looking the way it does I'm not 100% on when the backen got the way it is as the harness came out of another car. I did think about picking up a new 4 way switch at the parts store, but I'm not sure they will have the round corners like the 70's have.

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Robert, a new pigtail and a new master switch should solve your problem for sure. Replacing the driver's side harness is a lot of work (and expense) to solve the problem you've described.

 

The Parts Place, Inc. offers the round-corner master switch for $79. Here's the link:

 

http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/ocatalog/part.asp?VID=2&YearList=1970&Search_Keyword=power window

 

If push comes to shove, you can always transfer the "guts" of the a new square-cornered switch into your original round-cornered switch body.

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Carl it would be a one off type thing since they don't sale the pieces by them self. Just doing the drivers side harness to the relay and to where the passenger side and rear comes together is $186 I believe. I know a few would not agree with cutting and splicing the harness I just don't see a need to replace that much when everything else works fine.

 

Dennis I was thinking of swaping the guts if I did the new switch just take the new one apart first and heck its only $20 or so for the switch

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