72MC

You'll never go wrong with anything from ATI. That's all I buy for any of my applications now or in the past. Very well built. Don't ever think you can overkill when it comes to balancing your engine. Vibration kills an engine. Of course the balancer is a fine tune instrument. The assembly must be balanced properly first. Just my 2 cents. - Dave

:rofl: no worries. For some reason I thought I was taking a drivers license or passport pic. - Dave

Copy of selfies at "The Refuge" Kona HI.

It all looks great Dan. You gonna have fun putting all the parts back on the chassis. It's like building a life size car model. Just without the glue, haha. - Dave

Have an awesome time. Hoping you have some great photos and award news for us tomorrow. - Dave

That looks really good. Nice work. As others have stated, that should have been at least an option. - Dave

What a cool feeling that must be. Congrats Larry. - Dave

Looks purdy. Enjoy the track this season. - Dave

I believe the only 2 series 12 bolt carrier that could accept a 3 series gear was the 12 bolt TRUCK carrier. If memory serves me correctly, a truck 2 series 12 bolt carrier could accept up to a 3.07 gear. 3.08 is definitely a 3 series carrier item and is a passenger 12 bolt gear. You could also use ring gear shims to use series 2 gears on series 3 carriers. I don't personally like them but some people do. - Dave

Based on the naked eye, that's too much play. With a magnetic base and a dial indicator on the ring teeth, you should only move .006-.010. Was it set up correctly to begin with? Do you hear whining on the coast or acceleration. Your vid looks like you're pushing > .050. As long as all the gears look good, it just may be a clutch pack or shim issue. - Dave

These are the ones I used on my now Ex Monte. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-329725/overview/ Of course, they fit perfect with the square appearance of a Be Cool Radiator. Mark, I thought about getting the ones you listed but didn't like the way the fan would be mounted. JM2C - Dave

Yeah, just teared up reading my post to my wife. - Dave

Took the plates off her yesterday. Watched her leave for her new home today. Hope she likes Long Island. - Dave Dan and Mike securing her to the trailer. And,... watching her leave. Goodbye ole friend.

Robert, it's all looking good. My only novice advice, and I'm only speaking from experience, make sure you have everything done on the chassis before you put that body back on. I mean everything, all parts cleaned, prepped, and painted, working properly, etc. I'm sure you and your dad are having some fun building her and I wish you all the best. - Dave

Great rear install shots Cory. - Dave

Those are some "refreshing the soul" views. Just some of God's handy work. Thanks for the visual candy. - Dave

Good to hear you like those Vikings Cory. I have the good QA1's before quality started to suffer, or as rumor has it. I have the coil overs up front and just the double adjustable shocks in the back and they are well worth the expense. I would recommend only getting the double adjustable versions. you'll spend more but you won't be disappointed. I noticed an immediate impact on street-ability. Feels like the car is on rails. Just love em. Cory, what lbs per inch did you go with on the springs up front? I originally went with 350lbs/inch but found that I had the bare minimum travel distance with those. Ended up with the 450lbs/inch. Viking also had a big display at Carlisle this year. I checked them out and they do look like a quality product. - Dave

. Great action Davey. - Dave

Mitchell, if you are set on Hyper pistons, I may have a deal for you. I have a set of Sealed Power Hyper pistons(.030 over) already installed on OEM rods. They were in an engine I built but only have 2-3 hours run time before I discovered the machine shop did not flux and check the block for cracks. Of course I discovered it and they had already gone out of business. I also have a Comp Cam Extreme Energy flat tappet cam that is already broken in. I can include the matching lifters and they are marked for the proper lobe that they were broken in on. For the pistons, rings, rods, cam, and lifters, I would take 150.00 plus shipping and they're yours. That engine was also built with a "Quiet" gear drive for the timing chain. Add 75.00 and that could be included. Let me know. In any case, good luck with your repairs. - Dave

Mike, that's good stuff right there. Can't wait to see it live and would definitely pay you for a ride. Oh,...and you can drive . - Dave

Is this carb brand new or just new to you? I think you have a mixture problem and maybe the need to adjust the accelerator pump arm. Be careful that this arm is not stiff against the pump. That will cause fuel to constantly want to dribble out causing a bog. The acc pump arm needs a slight bit of play. And always remember, your idle screw is just a fine tune instrument. It's not meant to fix a mixture problem. If your rpms are dropping 400 rpms or more going from park to drive, you have a setup/mixture problem. Your optimal mixture will produce the highest vacuum in drive. That's when you know you have the right mix. That being said, Holley's are one of the easiest carbs to work with. Still misunderstood from the 70's but I digress. If it were me, I would start over. Check out the link for Holley's method to set these carbs up properly. It will take two(2) people but it is easy. I bought their instructional CD years ago and it was well worth the 15 bucks. Here is the link: http://forums.holley.com/entry.php?429-How-To-Adjust-The-Idle-Mixture-On-Holley-Carbs The link has an easy write up and a video as well. Hope this helps you out. - Dave

I hear what your saying Sam. I have the Holley 750 HP Series (p/n 0-82750) on my 383 and it pegs at zero but if you let off even just a hair you can see a blip in the vacuum gauge. Figure I am dead on with carb size. My fuel injected LT1 in my Impala SS did the same thing and that thing kept pullin well past 100 mph. Granted, that was not naturally aspirated. - Dave

At WOT, I believe that should be 0 (zero). - Dave

I am running Nitto NT450 275/50/17 in the rear. They are 27.88 inches tall. I don't do much 65 mph due to our speed limits being 70 mph. I'm usually running 80 mph and rpms are around 2800-3000. Daryl is right though, at 65 mph, rpms are low to mid 2000s in OD. The fly in the ointment for me is my stall convertor. Since I run a full manual 4l80, the convertor is non-lockup. Stall is 3300-3500 and it likes the higher rpms. If I run 65 mph, alot of the times I will keep it in 3rd. One way I learned my tranny's happy place is by the trans temp gauge. With a lock up convertor you should be fine with low gears. - Dave

I'd go at least 3.70 something. If I were you, I would also consider 3.90. I have 4.10s and the OD drops it so it feels like a 3.08 on the highway. 4L80 have a .75 OD. 4.10s have been perfect for me and as you can see by my siggy, I have a 4L80. Just my couple pennies. - Dave