MC1of80

The trans can swap in. The rear..... If you can weld, anything is possible. But why? Because it's free? Sometimes that's worse than beefing up what you have. Usually it costs more for the "free" part than doing it differently. Why do you want to attempt to use the rear from the truck?? The trans will need a stand alone computer to run it if you don't swap the engine and harness all at once. Again, sometimes free isn't worth it.

Check out the interesting link jft69f posted. Looks like you have a 2 series carrier with a spacer for 3 series gears. Not that it's wrong, just that's how it was done. Cheaper than buying a 3series posi carrier.

Yes it is cranberry red and thank you. 😁

Hi! I recommend legendary auto upholstery. I did the cloth bucket seats and rear seat with all their stuff. Cushions, and back seat packing. I didn't need any springs replaced but they have them also. I went with them due to them having the most correct "pleats" on our seats. I got a set of pui door panels and were very unhappy. I ordered a set from legendary and it is hard to tell the difference from the originals.

It certainly does.

Hey snomobeelr, You have the Chevy style 12 bolt. You are not correct in your rear not being centered. As weird as this sounds, it's "normal". There's nothing bent or twisted on your car. I know for sure Chevelle's, LeMans and gtos have the same issue. For whatever reason, (I'm sure someone has an answer) the GM cars are not perfectly centered on the frame. That is why usually one tire rubs on the inside or outside of the rear fender bender when the wrong offset wheel or big tires are used.

John, is this what you are talking about? The first pic is of my 71 402 4 speed and the second is of my 71 402 auto. Both tilt columns.

Hey Mackenzie, If you still have a headliner in your Monte you may not want to weld. I have removed the "pins" for the vinyl top by pulling them out and welding the holes and by grinding/cutting the pins off. I have found the grinding/cutting the pins off to be the best method for me. Less body work which means less to go wrong later down the road. The holes for the corners will be welded up. Good luck! Tom

I have not done it myself but have had it done to other rear ends. Yes, welding is required to the rear end side.

A Dana 60, while being a good differential is a big heavy unit. I would suggest "c clip" eliminator kit for the 12 bolt. You already have a 12 bolt, add a truetrac, some gears and c clip eliminators and axles. Way cheaper than doing a Dana 60. I understand your concerns about the c clip axles. I personally have a 12 bolt, 3.31, Detroit truetrac, strange c clip axles in my 496 70 SS. Have beaten it unmercifully at the track and on the street with NO problems. With slicks and drag radials. So far a best of 11.22@119 with a 1.5-1.6 60'.

I second the second on the use of SEM products. I have used them on many projects with great results.

Rob, anything is possible but I have had quite a few Baltimore built 70s with the full vinyl top trim purchased from different areas of the East coast. Most likely another interesting question we will never truly know the real deal about.

Look what it is on, a Lexus. Do I need to say anything more?!?! Lolol

I believe the Dynojets numbers are a little more liberal than some others. Idk what the short rpm range? What is the rpm range of the cam? Best way is to take her to the track. I highly recommend some drag radials or slicks. The street tires are useless against the 496s torque. Sure, rub it in! 65! Lol we are lucky to get out of the single digits up here for the next few days. Lolol

From the pic it looks like the custom steering wheel. Do you mean the 4 spoke one? Like you, idk about the seat color. Does look nice!

Hi Joe! Welcome to the club!! Sorry about mom. Your newest purchase looks sweet!!! We love seeing pics, new and old! Thanks for sharing. That's a tough on what to do. Have you checked under the rear seat and rear seat back, under the front seats for a build sheet? If she is a numbers matching car I would drive it for a while before deciding. Again, welcome!!!!

That's interesting Rob. I have had a few 70s, built in Baltimore with the full top trim. My first Monte was a 70, built in May. Cranberry red, black cloth bench, 350 2bbl, with the hubcaps you like, black vinyl FULL top. Just saying.

Yes Rob. You are correct with the vinyl top trim. From what I have seen it was more of a mid year change in 70. The early cars having the halo and later 70s not. I guess the tie bar can be like that. Why tho? The vinyl top was, if you will, needed. Why put the 72 tie bar on the later 71s? Again, that's like the difference between the 70 to 71 front bumper bracket. The 70 is flat and the 71 has a "bump" for the rectangle turn signals. So then why used on the 72 also? No turn signals there. Could have gone back to the 70 flat style. Just more questions that make you go hmmmmmmmmm 🤔 lol

Jared. I am sure that is possible but has anyone heard of the newer year part on the year before car? We all know that the manufacturers have used up older year parts on newer cars.. visa versa?

See what she does at the track and tune it there. The Dyno is more of a reference and to see how all is working. The track is the real test. Do you know what make Dyno it was? Some dynos read lower than others. Where do you live? Your track is open? Lol.

Hey usaflineman, Yes you should be making more in my opinion. I have a 496 in my 70 SS. Worked over rectangle port heads, solid flat tappet cam, Edelbrock rpm air gap, 950HP Holley, mechanical fuel pump, th400- 3800-4000 stall conv, 3.31 12 bolt. I have to check my records, but I think I have a little more timing. Have you had it to the track yet? Nice Monte you have. Is that Nevada silver?

Hi. From the looks of it, what I can see of your pic, there is more in it. The graph looks more like an earthquake scale. It's all over the place. Should be more smooth of a reading. Unless the at the tight scale it's on. Looks like maybe an ignition issue possibly by the bouncing around. What was the fuel pressure? A/f ratio? What is the engine combo? Trans and stall? What make converter?

You're welcome. Good luck!!!

Ahhhh ok. Are the 71 fenders and hood good? If so, the hood spear, headlight bezels, grille, bumper, tie bar need to r/r. 2 holes will need to be drilled in the 71 core support for the grille turn signals. Also the wiring for the turn signals. If the 72 nose overall is in better shape, r/r complete nose.

You're welcome willie. That's what we are here, to help each other when possible. Some FYI.... Alot of Chevelle stuff interchanges with our Monte Carlos even though it doesn't specify it does. Aka phantom fit.